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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-23-2010, 12:31 AM   #34006
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Just counting the screws only makes me curious about the weight.
Looks heavy and top heavy in its design. And might be too rigid as well.
The design might work better for 10th scale pancar then 12th.

Although I really do like new designs. Time will tell I guess.

Just wondering...
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:30 AM   #34007
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Servo Layout question..

Am sure this was covered somewhere before there is a serious amount of pages to search though so posting up the question again..

With the World's now being over and pictures of cars now being available.

What advantage does having your servo flat vs angled have on a 12th scale?

And is this best just on Carpet or outdoor too?
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:04 AM   #34008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Me_MrTyson View Post
Servo Layout question..

Am sure this was covered somewhere before there is a serious amount of pages to search though so posting up the question again..

With the World's now being over and pictures of cars now being available.

What advantage does having your servo flat vs angled have on a 12th scale?

And is this best just on Carpet or outdoor too?
x2

With that, anyone have suggestions for servo specs (ie: torque, speed etc, price not an issue)? Looking through the Redrc pics of the worlds but can't quiet see any servo model #'s.
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:51 AM   #34009
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Default servos in 1/12th

Most popular used are the Futaba S9650 and the S9602 .One is digital and has plastic gears and the other is not and has metal gears.
Either are bomb proof and give great service for many years.
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Old 06-30-2010, 03:53 AM   #34010
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Default trinity epic duo 2 10.5

Going to try this in my 1/12th pan car. Any tips on rollout motor timing etc.
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Old 06-30-2010, 04:39 AM   #34011
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I have a JR Z3650 and its kickasss

Key Features

* Coreless Motor
* Metal Gear
* Single Ball Bearing
Specs

* Size Category:Standard
* Type: Digital
* Torque:42 oz/in @ 4.8V, 51 oz/in @ 6V
* Speed:.11 sec/60░ @ 4.8V, .09 sec/60░ @ 6V
* Dimensions (WxLxH):.58" x 1.30" x 1.02"
* Weight:1.04 oz.
* Bushing Or Bearing:Bearing
* Bearing:Single
* Motor Type:Coreless Motor
* Gear Type:Metal

Overview
This servo is for 1/12 carpet racers looking for the ultimate in responsiveness, centering and reliability.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:43 AM   #34012
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TQ RC RACING track layout has been changed.

Here is the picture of the new layout.



Click Here to check out the video.

We will have Wednesday Night Club Race with brand new layout.

Open at 5pm, Race at 8pm.

Check out the new layout and let's have fun !!

Thanks.
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:59 AM   #34013
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Default track looks good

Even have a pole for the dancers.
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:29 AM   #34014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tellan View Post
Even have a pole for the dancers.
Sean doesn't miss much, you should see the Disco lights.
And of course there is the TQ song...
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:00 AM   #34015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Me_MrTyson View Post
Servo Layout question..

Am sure this was covered somewhere before there is a serious amount of pages to search though so posting up the question again..

With the World's now being over and pictures of cars now being available.

What advantage does having your servo flat vs angled have on a 12th scale?

And is this best just on Carpet or outdoor too?
I'm not an expert, but I'll give it a try.

The way a servo is mounted can change the Ackermann effect. Angled servos increase Ackermann (arms angled, servo saver down). A servo mounted flat on the chassis can be positioned to have zero Ackermann (arms straight, servo saver up).

Some cars are better with zero Ackermann and some aren't. I had an Asc T4 that was very good with the servo mounted on chassis. I also had a CRC Gen X that was not very good with the servo mounted on the chassis.

Sorry I can't offer more.
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:58 PM   #34016
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As a rule of thumb, servo up will make the steering more aggressive, and servo down will tend make it a bit numb. But...

That all depends on the suspension and chassis geometry. A BMI (DB10RR) has lots of rear grip, so running with the servo angled is essential to get a good balance. However, it doesn't rotate in the turn as well as...

...a CRC GenXL, which runs with the servo up. That car has very progressive steering, good rotation and good balance. But it isn't (in my view) as good as...

...an AE 12R5.1! This has the servo down, but its overall balance, steering and rotation is the best I've experienced in the current crop of cars.

So the answer is not as simple as saying one is different to the other in this way, and this is when you would use one or the other. It has to be placed in the context of the overall chassis performance.

The Ackermann effect is primarily governed by the position of the outboard steering ball stud in relation to the kingpin. Most cars use the AE front end, whose steering block geometry remains unchanged (L3 to R5) for many years. The CRC and Serpent geometry are slightly different.

The placement of the steering links fore and aft in the car will change the angles the wheels turn through, and have the effect of changing the relative angle of one wheel to the other. I'm never sure if that is the Ackermann angle (not according to the text book I have!), but this does have an effect on the steering response in the turn. However, so does the bump steer amount (shimming the ball stud up or not) when the servo is down!

My experience is that you set the servo in the same orientation as the top team guys, and then leave it there. If it was better to run a GenXL with the servo down, or an R5.1 with the servo up, then their team drivers would be doing it! HTH
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:32 PM   #34017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spring71 View Post
TQ RC RACING track layout has been changed.

Here is the picture of the new layout.



Click Here to check out the video.

We will have Wednesday Night Club Race with brand new layout.

Open at 5pm, Race at 8pm.

Check out the new layout and let's have fun !!

Thanks.

Nice Track !
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Old 07-05-2010, 01:35 PM   #34018
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What sort of extra equipment would I need to run 1/12th, outside of the stuff I already have for touring?

Car (obviously), radio, esc, batteries (not 1S lipos yet), set up gear (ride height etc) I already have. Are things like 1/12th set up systems and tyre truers essential, or just nice to have? Is there anything else I need?

Also, what would be a good car for a pan car n00b? RC12L5 kits and spares seem to be sold everywhere, what other brand would people recommend?
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Old 07-06-2010, 01:35 AM   #34019
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Originally Posted by Dan the Man View Post
What sort of extra equipment would I need to run 1/12th, outside of the stuff I already have for touring?

Car (obviously), radio, esc, batteries (not 1S lipos yet), set up gear (ride height etc) I already have. Are things like 1/12th set up systems and tyre truers essential, or just nice to have? Is there anything else I need?

Also, what would be a good car for a pan car n00b? RC12L5 kits and spares seem to be sold everywhere, what other brand would people recommend?
A 12th set up system is far from essential. Most cars adjust caster with shims, and I use a set of digital calipers to adjust toe. A tyre truer is VERY nice to have, but if someone in your club has one, buy him lunch in exchange for using it, and true several sets at once. 12R5's are nice, but in my biased opinion, you can't go wrong with a CRC gen xl. 2nd place at the worlds, and multi-time US Indoor and ROAR national Champ.
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Old 07-06-2010, 01:19 PM   #34020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
As a rule of thumb, servo up will make the steering more aggressive, and servo down will tend make it a bit numb. But...

That all depends on the suspension and chassis geometry. A BMI (DB10RR) has lots of rear grip, so running with the servo angled is essential to get a good balance. However, it doesn't rotate in the turn as well as...

...a CRC GenXL, which runs with the servo up. That car has very progressive steering, good rotation and good balance. But it isn't (in my view) as good as...

...an AE 12R5.1! This has the servo down, but its overall balance, steering and rotation is the best I've experienced in the current crop of cars.

So the answer is not as simple as saying one is different to the other in this way, and this is when you would use one or the other. It has to be placed in the context of the overall chassis performance.

The Ackermann effect is primarily governed by the position of the outboard steering ball stud in relation to the kingpin. Most cars use the AE front end, whose steering block geometry remains unchanged (L3 to R5) for many years. The CRC and Serpent geometry are slightly different.

The placement of the steering links fore and aft in the car will change the angles the wheels turn through, and have the effect of changing the relative angle of one wheel to the other. I'm never sure if that is the Ackermann angle (not according to the text book I have!), but this does have an effect on the steering response in the turn. However, so does the bump steer amount (shimming the ball stud up or not) when the servo is down!

My experience is that you set the servo in the same orientation as the top team guys, and then leave it there. If it was better to run a GenXL with the servo down, or an R5.1 with the servo up, then their team drivers would be doing it! HTH
I have the new BMI Copperhead 10 and the 12.The new cars rotate really good almost to much in some cases. I run my sevro on a angle.The new cars are very good!
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