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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-23-2010, 06:31 AM   #33946
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Default Tires

I have not raced 12 scale for a few years now and dropped out of it just due to the cost of chunking/peeling tires. I have read about 400 pages of this forum looking for a solid answers and would appreciate some help. I know Jaco calls my issue chunking but I never really lost a chunk so I always considered it a peel as the foam would tear and peel away from the rim. I also had this same issue with the CRC tires but have not used them for about five years and I understand they are the most resistant to tearing now. So tell me if I have this right.

Jaco - Decent wear, softer rim won't crack, compounds I know and tears the worst. Front bearing fit issues.
Parma - Same as Jaco now?
CRC - Less peeling but issues with rims cracking from impact.
Johns BSR - I would consider them an option if I knew how they performed
RC4Less - Well made, no peel issues but it looks like they are still using the small rim diameter and they are orange. lol
Xceed - Some are Jaco rim and are Jaco made. Other type has more compounds and has ITA foam and different wheel.

I would also like some advice on gluing the sidewalls. Is their one type of CA that works better than others or even a different type of glue that works a little better. Any help you can give me would be appreciated before I spend my $150 on six sets for the season.


Cam

Last edited by Cammer; 05-24-2010 at 06:28 AM. Reason: Updated Exceed.
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Old 05-23-2010, 09:42 AM   #33947
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Great post. Would like to see lots of knowledgeable responses on this one.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cammer View Post
I have not raced 12 scale for a few years now and dropped out of it just due to the cost of chunking/peeling tires. I have read about 400 pages of this forum looking for a solid answers and would appreciate some help. I know Jaco calls my issue chunking but I never really lost a chunk so I always considered it a peel as the foam would tear and peel away from the rim. I also had this same issue with the CRC tires but have not used them for about five years and I understand they are the most resistant to tearing now. So tell me if I have this right.

Jaco - Decent wear, softer rim won't crack, compounds I know and tears the worst. Front bearing fit issues.
Parma - Same as Jaco now?
CRC - Less peeling but issues with rims cracking from impact.
Johns BSR - I would consider them an option if I knew how they performed
RC4Less - Well made, no peel issues but it looks like they are still using the small rim diameter and they are orange. lol
Xceed - Jaco rim, Jaco made?

I would also like some advice on gluing the sidewalls. Is their one type of CA that works better than others or even a different type of glue that works a little better. Any help you can give me would be appreciated before I spend my $150 on six sets for the season.


Cam
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:27 PM   #33948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Despite all the talk about the Yok being a renewal of the old AE front end, I can clearly see that the only thing the two have in common is just the monoshock. Looking closely the AE is actuated at the hubs where the Yok is actuated at the arms.
The AE IS actuated by the arms. The arms pivot close to the centre, and the shock is attached to the arms. The hubs (note centre-point steering) are attached to the arms separately. If you take the hubs off the AE suspension, the arms still actuate the shock. HTH
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:37 PM   #33949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Despite all the talk about the Yok being a renewal of the old AE front end, I can clearly see that the only thing the two have in common is just the monoshock. Looking closely the AE is actuated at the hubs where the Yok is actuated at the arms.
The Yok front end is actually alot closer in design to the Delta mono shock front. Wish I could find a picture of one somewhere.
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:40 PM   #33950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cammer View Post
I have not raced 12 scale for a few years now and dropped out of it just due to the cost of chunking/peeling tires. I have read about 400 pages of this forum looking for a solid answers and would appreciate some help. I know Jaco calls my issue chunking but I never really lost a chunk so I always considered it a peel as the foam would tear and peel away from the rim. I also had this same issue with the CRC tires but have not used them for about five years and I understand they are the most resistant to tearing now. So tell me if I have this right.

Jaco - Decent wear, softer rim won't crack, compounds I know and tears the worst. Front bearing fit issues.
Parma - Same as Jaco now?
CRC - Less peeling but issues with rims cracking from impact.
Johns BSR - I would consider them an option if I knew how they performed
RC4Less - Well made, no peel issues but it looks like they are still using the small rim diameter and they are orange. lol
Xceed - Jaco rim, Jaco made?

I would also like some advice on gluing the sidewalls. Is their one type of CA that works better than others or even a different type of glue that works a little better. Any help you can give me would be appreciated before I spend my $150 on six sets for the season.


Cam
You pretty much have it right on your tire/rim synopsis. As for gluing the sidewalls I don't know that one glue is better than another. A trick I learned for doing it is run a bead around the tire then quickly spread it with an Xacto knife blade like butter on toast. It comes out much nicer that way.
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:43 PM   #33951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cammer View Post
I have not raced 12 scale for a few years now and dropped out of it just due to the cost of chunking/peeling tires. I have read about 400 pages of this forum looking for a solid answers and would appreciate some help. I know Jaco calls my issue chunking but I never really lost a chunk so I always considered it a peel as the foam would tear and peel away from the rim. I also had this same issue with the CRC tires but have not used them for about five years and I understand they are the most resistant to tearing now. So tell me if I have this right.

Jaco - Decent wear, softer rim won't crack, compounds I know and tears the worst. Front bearing fit issues.
Parma - Same as Jaco now?
CRC - Less peeling but issues with rims cracking from impact.
Johns BSR - I would consider them an option if I knew how they performed
RC4Less - Well made, no peel issues but it looks like they are still using the small rim diameter and they are orange. lol
Xceed - Jaco rim, Jaco made?

I would also like some advice on gluing the sidewalls. Is their one type of CA that works better than others or even a different type of glue that works a little better. Any help you can give me would be appreciated before I spend my $150 on six sets for the season.


Cam
Jaco calls peeling when the rubber comes off the rim leaving a clean rim. I've never seen that happen. Edges of tyres become frayed for three reasons.

First, the car clips a barrier, or corner marker (dot). The wheel goes through the foam, cutting it, and then it only takes one blip of the throttle to have that loose piece fly off and take a part of the tyre with it.

Second, the tyre is used for ten to twenty runs, and gradually the additive soaks in and softens the tyre. At this point, under the horsepower and chassis' we have today, the grip just rips the tyre away from the rim due to it's reduced strength having been softened by the additive.

Third, the car is hit by another car. Worst is the rear end shunt, where the body and/or chassis of the car behind usually puts a large cut in the rear tyre/s of the car in front, and then the damage is done when the car sets off again and the cut becomes a tear as the piece flies off the tyre. Can also happen to fronts if you t-bone a car in the corner - but it's often your fronts!!

Jaco/Parma yellow tyres are the most prone to any of the above. I can't say that CRC are any better or worse. CRC wheels don't break any more. Jaco/Parma wheels have the worst fit to bearings of any wheels by a considerable margin, CRC have the best. Xceed tyres are not Jaco, and we have several drivers who say they are very good, including National A finalists.

If it were me, I would buy a set of Xceed and a set of CRC (check iwth your local club for the best compounds to suit their track) and try them. Whatever makes your car easiest to drive (and therefore the easiest to keep off the barriers and the corner markers) I would buy four sets and see how you get on.

And if anyone hits you up the back, drive off very carefully. If you hear that tell-tale flapping noise, stop immediately, return to the pit, and reglue to tyre with contact adhesive. Keep on driving and it will fly off, leaving you with a wrecked tyre.

As for superglue, none of the ones I have ever tried are any good. They make part of the foam go into solid 'lumps, which tear away from the tyre more easily. I only use contact adhesive, as that works fine. HTH
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Old 05-24-2010, 04:12 PM   #33952
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What are your thoughts on the Hitec 225mg for 1/12 racing?
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:35 PM   #33953
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Default Converting Front Axle on GenXL to 12R5.1

Can this be done? What parts would I need? The reason I am asking is the setup station I have will not work with the GenXL front axles, the diameter is too large. It will work with the 12R5.1 axles.
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Old 05-24-2010, 10:09 PM   #33954
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Originally Posted by bjholz View Post
What are your thoughts on the Hitec 225mg for 1/12 racing?
Personally...I stay away from Hitec servos. They are fine for the budget basher but not reliable enough for racing.
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Old 05-24-2010, 10:35 PM   #33955
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Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
Can this be done? What parts would I need? The reason I am asking is the setup station I have will not work with the GenXL front axles, the diameter is too large. It will work with the 12R5.1 axles.
There is a way to convert the upper suspension to use the AE upper eyelet and steering block instead of the pillow ball suspension. I'm not sure if you use the CRC upper arm or the AE one with that. My guess would be CRC upper arm with the older style AE upper arm turnbuckle and the older style upper arm eyelet with a standard king pin and older style AE steering knuckles and axles. That should work with your setup station. I also remember seeing an aftermarket front axle for the GenX that used the standard 1/8" axle but am having a hard time finding it.
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Old 05-24-2010, 11:34 PM   #33956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Personally...I stay away from Hitec servos. They are fine for the budget basher but not reliable enough for racing.
+1. Hitec used to have issues of centreing properly, and I've not seen anyone post that this is solved. I haven't seen a Hitec servo in a 12th car for many years!

Use Futaba 9602 or 9650 for a trouble-free life!! HTH
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:23 PM   #33957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
+1. Hitec used to have issues of centreing properly, and I've not seen anyone post that this is solved. I haven't seen a Hitec servo in a 12th car for many years!

Use Futaba 9602 or 9650 for a trouble-free life!! HTH
Completely agree with you mate!
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Old 05-27-2010, 05:12 PM   #33958
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Default 4.5 gearing

Hi all..
Can some one please give me a start gear/ roll-out point for a 4.5,,1/12///LRP SXX?
Largish out door track...

http://www.nearmap.com/?q=@-34.85776...h&nmd=20100216

Mike
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:13 PM   #33959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by $$$... View Post
ok people, who knows if/when these wheels and tires will be available?
yokomo says July, after this worlds.

r-12 tests every Sataday at crest.
http://crestspeedway.net/

last saturday(22th) yokomo car



yesterday(29th)


Last edited by landau; 05-29-2010 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 05-28-2010, 08:18 PM   #33960
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Default XII-Link Lipo chassis plate

If anyone is interested. I had a friend cut me a new chassis plate for the XII-Link. i had all the round cell slots removed. also added a spot for the transponder and move the lipo battery retainer in 1mm on each side and the front one back 2mm. both smc and tp 1s lipo now fit perfect

here are some pics. I will post info in the for sale section
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