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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 07-10-2003, 02:52 PM   #3376
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For those of you that have been using the odourless (Jack the Gripper etc) how long have you been applying it before the race, and when have you been wiping it off??

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Old 07-10-2003, 04:06 PM   #3377
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Originally posted by racerdx6
I have to say that getting the rear ride height adjusters on the carpet knife to fit is the biggest pain in the ass. It took me like 10 minutes to get them to fit because I kept having to sand them down and than check em so I didn't make them too small. But otherwise the car is working great. It seems like the front tires wear out faster than the rear tires. I thought the rear tires would wear out faster because of how much softer they are. But it looks like the front are wearing faster.
if your front tires are wearing too fast, your car is pushing. Youre having to turn the wheels to much to turn the car, and that scrubs them. Tune in more steering.
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Old 07-10-2003, 05:16 PM   #3378
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HEY GUYS..For those who has been running 1/12 for some time, have you seen 1/12 SCALE F1 BODIES? and if so where can i get one?
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Old 07-10-2003, 05:46 PM   #3379
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Thank's R/C Paperboy ! I will try that, so to get more steering you can stiffen the center spring, right? But when you stiffen the center spring, you also loose some rear traction. But when you run with caster, you car tends to push more right? So if I got rid of the 2 of caster that I'm running I would eliminate some push right? I could also try softening up the front springs, I'm running the 22's in the front right now because that's what came with the kit. I might try some 20's. I don't want to lose any rear traction if I don't need to, so I think the first thing I'm gonna try is softening the front springs because that wouldn't make me lose any rear traction would it? Does anyone have any ideas on this? Thanks
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Old 07-10-2003, 05:56 PM   #3380
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For more High Speed steering Stiffen the center spring

I have my dual rate set around 3 , make the chasis do the steering. You wil have more control.

Kit comes with .018" springs. Check them with a dial caliper.

What center spring are you using now?

Don't worry about the caster. It won't make that much of a difference.

What are you running for tires? Kit?

David Root
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Old 07-10-2003, 06:54 PM   #3381
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trueing front tires

I just bought a Hudy tire truer. I have the 1/12th and 1/10th arbors but my Jaco fronts won't fit either arbor. My BSR fronts fit the 1/10th arbor. What arbor do I need? Other advise?
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Old 07-10-2003, 07:38 PM   #3382
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newracer-this sounds really bad-but you need to either force the wheel on-or-turn on the truer and push the wheel against the arbor and it will thread itself on.

One last resort that I have never tried is to drill out the rim with a drill bt the same size as the arbor's threads.

Sorry-as I am sure these are not the answers you were looking for. On the biright side-I have never bent or broken a JACO front rim doing these shadetree methods!!!
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Old 07-10-2003, 07:50 PM   #3383
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do I then need to use flanged bearings? not a problem since I have them.
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Old 07-11-2003, 06:01 AM   #3384
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newracer-Jacos use a non-flanged bearing. TRC uses Flanged.
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Old 07-11-2003, 08:42 AM   #3385
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only drill out the center to the same size as the arbor threads, do not completly drill out the bearing stops. But if you did/do then yes you will need to use flanged bearings.

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Old 07-11-2003, 09:12 AM   #3386
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Originally posted by stormperson
graphitedust- I assume you are the track you are talking about is Socal? That seems kinda small for a 8x1 for 12th scale. I would go to a 9 or 10 double, you will have slightly less torque and thus more runtime. maybe even try an 8x3 or 4 and gear it more agressively. also pick up some 3300's, that should help you out alot as well. and if that doesnt work try a reciever pack.
Thanks for the response! Yea, the track is SoCal, but I'm using all of that 8x1. I've experimented with turning the timing up to 30 degree and the car was a rocketship, yet very drivable. Needless to say, run time suffered. I'm actually looking for more power. I have two trains of thought:

1 - go up in winds, say to a 10, and also go with a more aggressive timing to get the power I'm looking for.


2- go with a lower wind, like a 7x1, and use less timing.

At any rate, I think I'm looking at buying some 3300's for this car. Is 8 min run time still an issue for you real 1/12 scale guys running 3300's?
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Old 07-11-2003, 09:12 AM   #3387
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hi guys, trying to start into 1/12... maybe into a RC12L3....but wat are the brands of tyres suitable for the car???
and anyone got the website for TRC tyres??

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Old 07-11-2003, 09:18 AM   #3388
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Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR

4- If you would run an 8 min. race you would probably go with less motor and much more conservative timing...
What is a "conservative timing" for a 1/12 scale car? I've been running 18 degrees....and sometimes as much as 30 degrees (yup, that more power thing). Are you in the low teens or single digits with your timing ?
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Old 07-11-2003, 09:51 AM   #3389
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go to the team trinity site for trc information

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Old 07-11-2003, 10:14 AM   #3390
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newracer-sorry-missed the "then do I need" part.....
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