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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-16-2010, 09:30 PM   #33871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarkko View Post
Is this scenario familiar to you?

Our Xray XII Link version has a strong tendency to lift the inside rear tyre in tight corners.
-driving mod on carpet
-carpet is not bumpy
-traction is medium to high
-tyres front 2xpink 39-40mm rear pink 41-42mm.
-tracktion compound front inside 25% 10 minutes rear

Which way should I start looking for to fix this
-harder compound tyre in front? takes away steering
-shorter additive time?
-center spring+oil, side shock oil and side springs are standard. Should it be harder?
-something else
Try making the rear end of your car wider. Also, I would try going one or two steps heavier on your side springs.
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Old 04-17-2010, 02:11 AM   #33872
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I have a 1:12th scale on road car.

Was wondering what gear ratio i should run with a 4 cell nimh and a tamiya 23Turn RZ brushed motor. just approx.

thanks.
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Old 04-17-2010, 03:54 AM   #33873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyernemesis View Post
To me it does look a mercedes and it might not have been made by Protoform at all but by a company called Andy's. I don't have any bodies to compare with but the sides of the rear wing look a bit wrong for the Protoform, I seem to remember the vertical sides towards the rear of the PF be smooth with no ridge on the side of the body near the rear wheels.

-------Mitch




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Old 04-17-2010, 09:32 AM   #33874
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*Snigger* Dontcha just love the know-alls! *Snigger*
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:09 PM   #33875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyernemesis View Post
To me it does look a mercedes and it might not have been made by Protoform at all but by a company called Andy's. I don't have any bodies to compare with but the sides of the rear wing look a bit wrong for the Protoform, I seem to remember the vertical sides towards the rear of the PF be smooth with no ridge on the side of the body near the rear wheels.

-------Mitch



Just trying to be contrary I guess..........The body does look good though.

And Slowerone........I just offered an opinion that it may be a different body, I didn't say that it wasn't a PF. I wanted to put something snide here and surround it with little action icons to show how much superior I am than someone just offering an opinion but I won't.


Have fun at the track!!!

Mitch
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:02 AM   #33876
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How do you mount donuts onto rims? Like how do you glue it?
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:47 AM   #33877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defcone View Post
How do you mount donuts onto rims? Like how do you glue it?

Contact cement, coat wait for it dry dunk in acetone and slide on.
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:42 AM   #33878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Contact cement, coat wait for it dry dunk in acetone and slide on.
Sounds like a lot cleaner method than I normally use [shoe goo on the wheel and pop in, wipe away excess].

You dunk the foam in, or you coat and dunk the wheel?
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:50 AM   #33879
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
Sounds like a lot cleaner method than I normally use [shoe goo on the wheel and pop in, wipe away excess].

You dunk the foam in, or you coat and dunk the wheel?
Well keep in mind that I have'nt done this since the late 80's but as I recall I would dunk the wheel in the acetone.
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Old 04-21-2010, 12:02 PM   #33880
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Would peeling back the sides and putting CA in be too weak?
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Old 04-21-2010, 12:19 PM   #33881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Well keep in mind that I have'nt done this since the late 80's but as I recall I would dunk the wheel in the acetone.


I haven't mounted donuts since the early-mid '90's myself

I know methods differ, but just double checking again, coat the wheel with contact cement, dry, dunk wheel in acetone [to lightly reactivate the glue] and slide it together, done?

I never had any problems with good adhesion coating the wheel with shoe goo and putting everything together, but a cleaner method that works well is good info too.

Especially since it's been long enough since I mounted donuts [and don't remember exactly how messy/PITA it is] that I'm getting ready to start mounting them again for experimentation.
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Old 04-21-2010, 12:23 PM   #33882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defcone View Post
Would peeling back the sides and putting CA in be too weak?
You really want a full surface glue job on foams for the best life and tire behavior.

I know plenty of people use CA glue to mount and repair foams as well, but I really don't like CA mounted foams, personally. Every time I've tried to use CA to fix adhesion issues, or used foams that were pre-mounted with CA, it always seems the tires chunk a lot easier to me.

Again, it's been since the early-mid 90's since I mounted donuts myself, but from what I remember, my shoe-goo mounted foams always seemed to be a bit more robust against chunking.
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Old 04-21-2010, 12:32 PM   #33883
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Personally I still like the old contact cement method...with a good sanding on the rim you could make tires that were very resistant to chunking. However since manufacturers have gone to using CA to glue the tires the rims are not all safe to dunk into lacquer thinner. Given the cost of pre-mounted Primsms...you'll actually spend more money mounting your own. Not my favorite rim but you can't beat the price.
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Old 04-21-2010, 01:02 PM   #33884
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My plan is to experiment with different compounds and/or dual compound mounting once I get up a collection of bare, straight wheels.

For this kind of pricing, I don't see it being too terribly expensive: http://www.windtunnelracingproducts....21_169&&page=1
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Old 04-21-2010, 01:18 PM   #33885
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LOVE WINDTUNNEL. use all their springs. might have to try the donuts
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