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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-14-2010, 07:25 PM   #33856
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Last edited by Josh Keller; 04-14-2010 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:08 PM   #33857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim View Post
In case any of you are interested in a custom painted 1/12th scale body, this one just came available today.







...Jim
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Who makes this body? Looks like a mercedes sauber?
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:37 PM   #33858
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Looks like an old PF P35 Nissan from back in the day. Crushed many of them!
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:46 PM   #33859
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Opened my yap too soon. Pulled a P35 out of the dust for comparison..... not it. I give.
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Old 04-15-2010, 07:55 AM   #33860
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Looks like an old PF P35 Nissan from back in the day. Crushed many of them!
isn't it a parma 8hd?
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:15 AM   #33861
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Opened my yap too soon. Pulled a P35 out of the dust for comparison..... not it. I give.
Hey Brian,

Sure looks like a P35 to me. In what ways was yours different? IIRC there were two versions of the P35, one with an extra hump between the cockpit and the front fenders, and one with just a smooth curve. The one with the hump came out later to help clear some of the higher front ends and let people mount it lower.

You coming to the nats at Norcal in August?

-James
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:25 AM   #33862
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Default Rear tyre lifting in corners

Is this scenario familiar to you?

Our Xray XII Link version has a strong tendency to lift the inside rear tyre in tight corners.
-driving mod on carpet
-carpet is not bumpy
-traction is medium to high
-tyres front 2xpink 39-40mm rear pink 41-42mm.
-tracktion compound front inside 25% 10 minutes rear

Which way should I start looking for to fix this
-harder compound tyre in front? takes away steering
-shorter additive time?
-center spring+oil, side shock oil and side springs are standard. Should it be harder?
-something else
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Old 04-16-2010, 04:18 AM   #33863
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That is a common thing when your side dampening is too thick. Try a lighter oil or softer side springs.
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:32 AM   #33864
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Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
Hey Brian,

Sure looks like a P35 to me. In what ways was yours different? IIRC there were two versions of the P35, one with an extra hump between the cockpit and the front fenders, and one with just a smooth curve. The one with the hump came out later to help clear some of the higher front ends and let people mount it lower.

You coming to the nats at Norcal in August?

-James
Since I'm the one who bought this painted body I thought might as well clear up the mystery.

It is the Protoform Nissan P35 ( 1603R ) body , I just bought a BNIB one
in the Netherlands to have this one as spare body and to paint the other myself as a training body.

They are hard to find but search and you might find one on the web .

Erik
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Old 04-16-2010, 10:27 AM   #33865
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Default Andy's Bodies

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Looks like an old PF P35 Nissan from back in the day. Crushed many of them!
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
Hey Brian,

Sure looks like a P35 to me. In what ways was yours different? IIRC there were two versions of the P35, one with an extra hump between the cockpit and the front fenders, and one with just a smooth curve. The one with the hump came out later to help clear some of the higher front ends and let people mount it lower.

You coming to the nats at Norcal in August?

-James
Quote:
Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
Who makes this body? Looks like a mercedes sauber?


To me it does look a mercedes and it might not have been made by Protoform at all but by a company called Andy's. I don't have any bodies to compare with but the sides of the rear wing look a bit wrong for the Protoform, I seem to remember the vertical sides towards the rear of the PF be smooth with no ridge on the side of the body near the rear wheels.

-------Mitch
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Old 04-16-2010, 01:03 PM   #33866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarkko View Post
Is this scenario familiar to you?

Our Xray XII Link version has a strong tendency to lift the inside rear tyre in tight corners.
-driving mod on carpet
-carpet is not bumpy
-traction is medium to high
-tyres front 2xpink 39-40mm rear pink 41-42mm.
-tracktion compound front inside 25% 10 minutes rear

Which way should I start looking for to fix this
-harder compound tyre in front? takes away steering
-shorter additive time?
-center spring+oil, side shock oil and side springs are standard. Should it be harder?
-something else
Try reducing the camber on your front end.
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Old 04-16-2010, 03:10 PM   #33867
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Last edited by Josh Keller; 04-20-2010 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 04-16-2010, 03:29 PM   #33868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Keller View Post
Does anyone have any advice for tweaking and balancing a chassis?
Hi!

Try read this blog:
http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/se...a%2012th%20Car

Btw, I do in 1st step balance r/l on hudy pin tool and then only correct
tweak by screws (t-bar 12L4 or screws for springs preload in my 12R5.1 ae).



Don't worry it take some time

Good luck!
M.
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Old 04-16-2010, 03:39 PM   #33869
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Originally Posted by Josh Keller View Post
Does anyone have any advice for tweaking and balancing a chassis?

I read most racers are balancing their chassis' with lead and electronic placement, rather than using the tweak adjustment screws.

I've almost got my chassis balanced using a set of Hudy Balancing Pins, but it's not perfect. Would it be a good idea to finish "balancing and tweaking" the chassis using the tweak adjustment screws?

I'm a former oval racer, so I'm trying to learn the 1/12th on-road procedures for proper chassis preparation. Balancing the chassis from left to right is all new to me.

Thanks for the help,

Josh
What I try to do is get the car balanced left to right and fore and aft during the build by the placement of the components on the chassis. Put your batteries in the chassis and then using either balance buttons or four mini scales and then start laying out your electronics. (Only the mini scales will measure fore aft weighting.) I try and do the chassis separate from the motor pod as it is easier to get the chassis balanced. The motor pod is what it is. To balance the pod you would have to add or remove material. Be careful about removing material from the motor. Some classes do not allow that kind of modification. After you have the car as balanced as you can get it, then with the car ready to go on the track, put the car on a tweak station. The balance beam type. We found that balancing from behind with the rear of the car on the balance beam produces a better setting. Make sure the rear tires diameter matched and the front tire diameter matches. I also disconnect the dampener tubes or side shock if you are using any as they can make getting the perfect setting harder. Use the set screws in the T bar to adjust. If you are using a link car then you can move the side springs up and down but we found that with link cars, you just have to have matching tires left to right and then back the springs off of the links or bottom plate of the motor pod so they are just clearing. Donít forget to reconnect your dampener tubes or side shock. Been there, done that!!
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Old 04-16-2010, 06:48 PM   #33870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Keller View Post
Does anyone have any advice for tweaking and balancing a chassis?

I read most racers are balancing their chassis' with lead and electronic placement, rather than using the tweak adjustment screws.

I've almost got my chassis balanced using a set of Hudy Balancing Pins, but it's not perfect. Would it be a good idea to finish "balancing and tweaking" the chassis using the tweak adjustment screws?

I'm a former oval racer, so I'm trying to learn the 1/12th on-road procedures for proper chassis preparation. Balancing the chassis from left to right is all new to me.

Thanks for the help,

Josh
Balancing the chassis is very important. You can use tweak screws to cover up chassis imbalance but being that you are preloading one side more than the other, the car will carve harder in 1 direction than the other due to uneven spring rates( springs are progressive and ramp up in spring rate as they are compressed). For this reason, you want to balance your car race ready before messing with tweak. This will yield the best results.
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