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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-28-2010, 07:48 PM   #33826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G33Kster View Post
Is graphite relatively easy to work with? Seems like it would just crack if I tried to cut it. Maybe I can use the CNC mill in our school's machine shop and cut/drill the chassis out...
It's pretty easy to cut. Router bits, cut-off wheels, fine tooth saw blades, etc. all go through it pretty well.
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Old 03-28-2010, 07:57 PM   #33827
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
It's pretty easy to cut. Router bits, cut-off wheels, fine tooth saw blades, etc. all go through it pretty well.
Alright then, I'll consider it Thanks!
Anyone else have ideas? I'd love to hear them!
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:07 PM   #33828
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If you can figure out some way to get a shock/spring on the rear pod like most pan cars, that would be a big help.
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:51 PM   #33829
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
If you can figure out some way to get a shock/spring on the rear pod like most pan cars, that would be a big help.
Good point. However, my battery runs straight through the spot in which a shock on other cars would normally sit, so that's sort of out of the question . BTW this car has an odd rear suspension which relies on a rear triangle type thing (you can see it in a picture of my bare chassis back about a page). Anyway, maybe I can add a bar that goes above the battery and motor with a turnbuckle so I can adjust the "push" between the rear pod and the middle section of the chassis. Just a thought...
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:53 AM   #33830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G33Kster View Post
Is graphite relatively easy to work with? Seems like it would just crack if I tried to cut it. Maybe I can use the CNC mill in our school's machine shop and cut/drill the chassis out...
just make sure you have a way to trap the dust. the stuff will litteraly kill you.
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Old 04-04-2010, 01:18 PM   #33831
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Default Serpent S120 Link Car Build Notes

Good evening

I have updated http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com
with my latest build notes on the Serpent S120 link car.

I promise more as I go. I have some good setups comming but I am not "there" yet so I will hold off till I have a good story to tell.

Hope this stuff helps as always.

Regards

Mark
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Old 04-04-2010, 01:26 PM   #33832
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That's good reading. I have read it several times before your recent update and I learn something new each time.
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:18 PM   #33833
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Default Thanks Mark

Thank you Mark for the great build tips on the S120 kit.....I really appreciate the effort and skill you have.

Greg G

What is the max width of a 12th scale? ROAR rules
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:21 PM   #33834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swampracer View Post
Thank you Mark for the great build tips on the S120 kit.....I really appreciate the effort and skill you have.

Greg G

What is the max width of a 12th scale? ROAR rules
172mm
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:23 PM   #33835
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Default Please help NEWBIE from South Africa

I have been racing touring electric and nitros for the past 10 years. I race go-karts and I do race setups on them myself, with the1/12th pan looking so similiar and close to a go kart I thought about it and would like to try it out.
Also what would you guys recommend, XRAY XII ot 12R5.1 and why?

What type of carpet do you guys race on, as back here in RSA we dont have any indoor/carpet racing. I would like to look into it and start something.
Please advise me here if you guys can.

Please give me some feedback and if you got any questions for me please feel free to ask

Thank you so much
Samier
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:34 PM   #33836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamierF400 View Post
I have been racing touring electric and nitros for the past 10 years. I race go-karts and I do race setups on them myself, with the1/12th pan looking so similiar and close to a go kart I thought about it and would like to try it out.
Also what would you guys recommend, XRAY XII ot 12R5.1 and why?

What type of carpet do you guys race on, as back here in RSA we dont have any indoor/carpet racing. I would like to look into it and start something.
Please advise me here if you guys can.

Please give me some feedback and if you got any questions for me please feel free to ask

Thank you so much
Samier

Both of those cars are great 1/12 cars and I'm sure you would be happy with either.

This is a link to the carpet most US tracks are using: http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718822

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:46 PM   #33837
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Hey Samier, pretty much ALL the current 1/12th cars are great. Xray, Serpent, CRC, Slapmaster, BMI, AE, or whatever will all do the job so go with the one that is the easiest to get in SA.

As for carpet, the CRC carpet is sort of the industry standard. I believe there are cheaper alternatives that are as good but I have no info on them. I'm sure someone else can add to it.
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Old 04-05-2010, 02:10 AM   #33838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamierF400 View Post
I have been racing touring electric and nitros for the past 10 years. I race go-karts and I do race setups on them myself, with the1/12th pan looking so similiar and close to a go kart I thought about it and would like to try it out.
Also what would you guys recommend, XRAY XII ot 12R5.1 and why?

What type of carpet do you guys race on, as back here in RSA we dont have any indoor/carpet racing. I would like to look into it and start something.
Please advise me here if you guys can.

Please give me some feedback and if you got any questions for me please feel free to ask

Thank you so much
Samier
In the UK our standard carpet is PrimaTrack GT, as we used at the recent 12th scale European Championships. A cheaper option is Prima Duo. Both are available in the UK from http://www.primadirect.co.uk/ but I think you have to contact them direct for more info and prices.

For some extra info on 12th scale track building see the design guide at the BRCA web site. Direct link to the guide is http://www.brca.org/Sections/cir_ele...ide%202008.pdf

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Last edited by TrevCoult; 04-05-2010 at 02:14 AM. Reason: Added design guide
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Old 04-05-2010, 05:19 AM   #33839
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Thanks guys will look at the websites and give the guys a call or send them an email.

Which of the cars that I mentioned has more support and info via the web.
Also which car is more technical as I like technical.

Can you please post some sites for me on the transponders and software for it the full package.

Dont you guys have questions for me? lol
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Old 04-05-2010, 05:25 AM   #33840
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Originally Posted by SamierF400 View Post
Dont you guys have questions for me? lol
Can you get me free tickets to the US Vs. England world cup match?

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