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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-23-2010, 06:26 PM   #33796
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so nobodys able to help me out with this?
Throw in one of the new saddle pack 1S packs and you'll be just fine to start with.

Other upgrades to consider, would be the IRS lowered front end, and the IRS lowered rear pod and motor mounts. I'd worry about becoming decent with the car first though before starting to drop any coin on the car.

Good luck

Paul
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:13 PM   #33797
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so nobodys able to help me out with this?
The only thing I would get is the lowered CRC pod plates so that you can run with smaller rear tyres. You may have to file a little bit of material away from the non spur gear side to clear you sensor wire though. The 1c saddle pack LiPo's will fit fine. Or you could get a Hara Hammer 12 conversion, which may be a bit hard to find nowadays but you would still need the lowered pod plates. I have used one of those and a normal 1c LiPo fits perfectly in it. Cheers.
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:45 PM   #33798
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cool thanks guys
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:26 AM   #33799
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For those who are interested in upgrade kits for 1/12, V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 4.0 version will be out soon. Email me vesa@v-dezign.net for more info, pricing and availability. Also US distributor is wanted! Check also www.v-dezign.net Reports below and more will be updated to the website soon!

Latest news from the team can be read from for example in here from the latest races in Finland and UK as well as Euro's:

http://www.redrc.net/2010/03/vesa-yl...track-rd3-win/

http://www.redrc.net/2010/03/chris-k...le/#more-29345

http://www.redrc.net/2010/03/v-dezig...m-112th-euros/

http://www.redrc.net/2010/02/vesa-yl...2-of-fintrack/
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Old 03-24-2010, 03:19 AM   #33800
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Quote:
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so nobodys able to help me out with this?
Hi!

I have 12l4 with some upgrades like blue rear end from IRS,
front lower arms IRS, and untill I drive on slow engine, like 10.5T,
car was great. For modified ... I switch to 12R5.1 and my problems
with t-bar go away

I play a lot of time with 12L4 but better laps I got when I switch to 12R5.1.

Regards!
m.
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Old 03-25-2010, 05:22 PM   #33801
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Hello from Kuwait,

just wanted to know what servos you guys use for steering on your 1/12 cars?? what are the top 3 servos to get ??

cheers

Ali
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Old 03-25-2010, 05:36 PM   #33802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWT-NITRO View Post
Hello from Kuwait,

just wanted to know what servos you guys use for steering on your 1/12 cars?? what are the top 3 servos to get ??

cheers

Ali
For me a top 2, Futaba S9650 or JR Z3650. Both brilliant for 12th.

Trev
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Old 03-25-2010, 05:46 PM   #33803
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Hello from Kuwait,

just wanted to know what servos you guys use for steering on your 1/12 cars?? what are the top 3 servos to get ??

cheers

Ali
KO PDS-951ICS - THE BEST
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:00 PM   #33804
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Setting up my first 12 scale. I will be running a tekin rs with a 13.5. Where do you begin to figure out what gearing you need. I know tire size, track size take into account but, where do you start?
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:36 PM   #33805
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Probably start around 75mm roll out if you are running 203. But as you said, this is going to heavily depend on the track lay out.
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:48 AM   #33806
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Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
For me a top 2, Futaba S9650 or JR Z3650. Both brilliant for 12th.

Trev
the heli crowd like to convert the 9650 to metal gears (an HKS ... part). that brings the total cost of a metalgear 9650 to the 3650. the 3650 has less freeplay and is shorter while the 9650 is deeper.

the futaba 9602 is metal gear and analog and also works well. is the analog version. the 9602 has a little more clearance around the output shaft than the 9650, this helps if you like to run the servo forward with the ball cups between the servosaver and the servo body.
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Old 03-26-2010, 03:37 PM   #33807
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KO PDS-951ICS - THE BEST
Agree Hi torque & Speed !
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Old 03-26-2010, 04:00 PM   #33808
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Hey guys,

thanks for the answers about the servos, i think KO is the way to GO

cheers

Ali
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:57 AM   #33809
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Hey guys,

thanks for the answers about the servos, i think KO is the way to GO

cheers

Ali


KO over here in my 1/12.
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Old 03-27-2010, 09:45 PM   #33810
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Talking GTP Nissan Electric Conversion

Hey guys!
Today I finished converting an old Cox .049 GTP Nissan to electric. I have spent $0 thus far. I used the ESC (a Duratrax Sprint) and the motor (a Duratrax Photon Speed) out of my Evader stadium truck that is soon to become brushless. The receiver/controller are essentially brand new and meant for an aircraft (dual joystick design). Yes, not the best components by any means, but I am very proud of the result. I modified the old engine mounting plate to fit the motor, but that was the extent of my modification. Everything fits perfectly! Unfortunately, I'm still using NiCd batteries, but they contribute to my zero-budget idea. Not quite sure of the top speed, but it seems to be above 25 mph. Not to shabby for something I built in a day
The first pic is of the bare chassis and the second is the completed vehicle with taped tires.
1/12 forum-bare-chassis.jpg 1/12 forum-final-shell.jpg
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