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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-19-2010, 04:53 AM   #33766
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Any idea which lipo batter is suitable for Cyclone 12 thks.
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Old 03-19-2010, 07:44 AM   #33767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bl4 View Post
Any idea which lipo batter is suitable for Cyclone 12 thks.
Speedzone 1s saddle pack.
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1/12 V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 4.0 / GM Genius 75 / GM Pro 10.5 metal / LRP 5400 50c
1/10 Tamiya 414JJ / LRP Sphere TC Spec / Nosram Storm Evolution 10.5 / CS 5200 50c saddle pack
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:46 AM   #33768
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Default 8 MINUTE Races

Hey guys..

I am green as here, and need to prep up for a state titles in 4 weeks

I have the car built.. RC12R5
Novak GTB 4Cell
Novak Booster
1C 5000mAh
10.5T tekin

Spur 98T 64P atm

PINION: I have no idea where to start here, is it in the 25+T's like tourers, or 40 - 50T's?

Any help appreciated.
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:15 PM   #33769
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i am new to 1/12 scale and almost done building my 12r5.1 im just a bit confused on the booster module set up. i have a sxx competition ESC; what booster would you guys recommend? i was looking to buy the novak booster but then i saw the you guys are using TQ and Rc dybamics modules. that is basically all i need to finish my car and have it ready to go. thanks
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:26 PM   #33770
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hey guys,

if i wanna get into 1/12 racing and money is not an issue, do you think this set-up is good? excellent? or crazy fast?

kit: BMI DB12RR
esc: LRP SXX stock spec
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Speed-Control

Motor: LRP Vector X12 5.5T
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...less-Motor-55T

Battery: a 1 cell lipo (3.7V)

whats are your advices and opinions since am new to electric and 1/12?!

cheers
Ali
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:34 PM   #33771
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My advice would be to forget about the 5.5 motor for now. Almost a sure bet, as many have before you, to result in frustration with 1/12 and deciding "it's not for me". Start with a 17.5 (even if they only run mod in your neck of the woods) and learn car control, etc AND how set-up changes affect the car. Then work your way down on winds with more power as you HONESTLY get to where power is what is limiting your performance.

A good way to do this might be with a Novak Ballistic 17.5, then you could just buy the stator assemblies each time you want to go down a step.
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:53 PM   #33772
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thanks for the fast answer but what if i wanna stick with LRP? would a 9.5T be good for a starting point? i dont think set-up understanding will be a problem since i run 1/10 nitro and i have good skills. car control will come with practice as any other class, dont you think?

cheers

Ali
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:00 PM   #33773
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Then I'd say go with an LRP.

The For Sale listings usually have plenty of 1/12 outfits being sold off at fire-sale prices by folks who thought they had 1/10 dialed so "how tough can those simple little 1/12 cars be". Maybe find one of those?

I. Would. Start. With. WAY. Less. Motor.

You asked for advice, that would be mine. And I'm quite certain I'm not alone in my sentiments. 1/10 cars have seventy-three bucket-loads of adjustments and can usually be driven around a mistake on any couple dozen of them. 1/12 cars have comparatively few adjustments which means the devil is in the details--the difference between "on rails" and "a bag of ass" is usually a quarter turn of something away from each other. Take it from me--I'm the KING of turning "on rails" into "bag of ass". All adding horsepower to the mix does is make the difference an eighth of a turn or less away from each other.
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:10 PM   #33774
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LMAO,

thanks man for the advice, so less motor for me. i understand, i know 1/12 is the fastest RC scale. if running on carpet, foam tires are needed ofcourse, i see people use traction compound, is it mandatory??
i was also checking the Jaco tires and couldnt understand a thing about all the colors like pink, white ...etc etc. any tire shore that work on almost any carpet track??

by the way, how wide are the lines for a 1/12 track?? 3.5M ?? 10'??
cheers
Ali
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:27 PM   #33775
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Traction compound is almost a "must" if it is allowed. Then tire compound depends on what surface and what compound(s) is/are allowed.

Most succinct explanation of Jaco compounds I've seen is attached. I took it from the BMI site. btw the BMI cars have an optional aluminum spacer that "automatically" sets your rear width and centers the axle with Jaco tires. Well worth the nominal cost not to have to fumble around with stacks of shims.

As far as lane widths...10' is actually REALLY wide for 1/12, usually only found if folks are running both 1/10 AND 1/12 cars. 8' seems to be pretty standard (maybe with a 10' straight as I've seen on the Cleveland track a couple times). I've run on 6' lanes at our sister club in Great Falls, MT and let me tell you there is NOTHING like running in a 4 car freight train for 5-6 minutes each car waiting for the car in front to make a mistake and pounce. I'm shaking every time I climb off the stand there. It teaches PATIENCE and SMOOTHNESS. Those guys clean our clocks every time we go there. Heck, a couple of 'em clean our clocks every time they come HERE anymore. It's probably like practicing billiards on a 9' table and then going to play on the standard 7' or 7.5' bar tables--you look like a shark.
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:37 PM   #33776
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ess-Motor-175T

better ??

can i use this one with the esc i had few posts above?? will a 17.5T motors accept a 1 cell lipo?? my questions might be a bit silly but i told you am new to electric

cheers

Ali
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:44 PM   #33777
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Any esc will work with the 17.5 motor. For 1-cell use you need to use a voltage booster or receiver pack to keep the receiver/servo/transponder happy. Lots of choices there...I've had very good luck with the super-duper el-cheapo boosters.

I forgot to post the tire compound sheet.
Attached Files
File Type: doc Jaco Foam Compounds Explained.doc (21.5 KB, 224 views)
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:49 PM   #33778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Any esc will work with the 17.5 motor. For 1-cell use you need to use a voltage booster or receiver pack to keep the receiver/servo/transponder happy. Lots of choices there...I've had very good luck with the super-duper el-cheapo boosters.

I forgot to post the tire compound sheet.
thanks for the link.

when you read the discription of the LRP SXX stock spec ESC, it says that it has Twin BEC: Constant 6V/3A output with 3.0V to 7.4V batteries. No need for receiver battery for 1S LiPo or 4-cell NiMH Batteries.

so i need no RX pack nor a booster??

cheers
Ali
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Old 03-21-2010, 10:18 PM   #33779
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I've ran a 12 scale with a Tamiya silver can and thought that was insanely fast. I couldn't even imagine running a low turn brushless. I would definitely be nervous running that. I am setting up a car now and will only be running a 21.5.
I know the motor won't be holding me up turning fast laps
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:28 AM   #33780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWT-NITRO View Post
hey guys,

if i wanna get into 1/12 racing and money is not an issue, do you think this set-up is good? excellent? or crazy fast?

kit: BMI DB12RR
esc: LRP SXX stock spec
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Speed-Control

Motor: LRP Vector X12 5.5T
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...less-Motor-55T

Battery: a 1 cell lipo (3.7V)

whats are your advices and opinions since am new to electric and 1/12?!

cheers
Ali
BMI is a great car especially for those starting out. The flex plates in the rear get rid of the side springs so it simplifies the setup a little bit over the other cars.

The LRP though wouldn't be a good choice as it is limited in timing options and upgradeability. Your best bet right now is the Tekin RS or the Black Diamond. The Tekin runs much less in price as the LRPs, is smaller, is upgradable, and is one of the fastest if not the fastest in 1/12th right now.
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