R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-08-2003, 06:37 PM   #3361
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 593
Default Huh?

Nitro 1/12? Never heard of it.

One reason I race 1/12 is 8 minute heats and mains. More track time for my $s.

Trying Suntan Lotion this weekend. I also have some Trinity Tire treatment. It looks like suntan lotion, the instructions say treat with tire sauce, then put this stuff on, it will keep the tires softer longer. It looks like suntan lotion. Gotta try everything.

David Root
David Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2003, 10:16 AM   #3362
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

davidl: I would appreciate that. You're already a national champion, so please let the little people offer up our knowledge when ever possible. Really, I was complaining about ACTUALLY HAVING TO WORK for a little while. This PESKY JOB!
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2003, 11:21 AM   #3363
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default Re: Huh?

David R wrote: "Nitro 1/12? Never heard of it."

The first 1/12th scale car I ever saw was powered by a Cox .049-
it was slow and unreliable, but that's the way they came back then before the advent of electronic speed controls etc. And oh, yes, dinosaurs roamed the earth.
O'D
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2003, 11:26 AM   #3364
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Newville,Pa
Posts: 2,152
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

And you use part of a bicycle to start the car... no clutch..... no brakes....WHEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
__________________
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
IMPACTPLAYR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2003, 12:30 PM   #3365
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default

CMW - Hahahahahahahahahaha..........ops. (I said I wasn't going to post)
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2003, 01:10 PM   #3366
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 593
Thumbs up Nothing to do with 1/12,BUT

Wen I was a kid back in the 60s, I had a Shrike. It had 4 wheels, no steering, Prop on the back with the Cox .049 engine. I just fired it up and let it go. It did have a loop for a teather, but I never knew what it was for. After a while we learned to start the motor backwards, then the car would go until it got up some speed then spin out and take off in a different direction. Saved on crashes that way. I'm getting old, but the cars are much better now.

David Root
David Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2003, 03:34 PM   #3367
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default showing your age

I remember the Shrike! I didn't have one though. I did have the wire tether car powered by a CO2 cartridge...Fahwhoosshhh!!!
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2003, 07:48 PM   #3368
Tech Elite
 
lem2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: OC
Posts: 3,061
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default question again

Hello again and Mabuhay!!!(good health good life!!) from Manila Philippines!!!!!

1. I'm running an L3, the stock steering is great and have no problems with it, question is: what will happen If I change to in-line steering? If i do what should I expect from the car after?

2. Has any body here modified the L3 by using damper tubes? I did, and I used the ones from CRC, my question is: after you did the modification, how did you fine tune your car.

3. Our "lone" indoor carpet track is narrow/small and tight, i use an 11x2 motor, with a 75/15 combination, a rollout of about 30.457 the rear wheel spins when I gun the throttle, is my gearing to high? (i'm using the stock foams that came with the kit)

lastly: what are the factors that make the rear wheel spin? loose/tight diff? gearing?

wd-40 seems to work on our track!
thanks and sorry for the long post!!
Peace to all!!!
lem2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2003, 11:45 PM   #3369
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 775
Default

Hi All... I'm occasionally racing a 4 cell/ mod powered 1/12 Associated L3. There is no 1/12 class at my local track, so the 1/10 pan cars allow me to race with them. We race 5 min on a high grip asphalt track. I am running an Orion 8x1 @ 18-20 degrees with new sanyo 3000's. I cruise the practice lap, then race 5 min. Gearing is 17/72 (48 pitch) with full size tires. Car is very fast and runs well and has won the "A" a few times.

Issue: I'm having problems dumping or getting VERY soft on the last lap.

Questions: Am I running too much timing, too much motor, too much gearing?

What do you guys run for winds, motors, gearing? I couldn't make 8 minutes with this set-up. Why can a mod sedan make run time?

Comment: 1/12 scale rocks! Kinwald was turning 8.7's with a 7x1 in his sedan....I was turning 8.9's! YaaaaHooooo!
Graphitedust is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2003, 11:51 PM   #3370
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 775
Default

I couldn't afford a Shrike.....so I took an .049 motor and made a chassis out of an "Erector" set. (dated myself with DavidRoot on that one...) Lived on a street with a concrete curb/gutter. On street sweeping day noone could park on the street , so we ran our prop car down the gutter at about 40 mph. Between that and all the other things I did, It's no wonder all the neighbors wanted to thump on me.....man, wish I still had that car.....
Graphitedust is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2003, 12:51 AM   #3371
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Newville,Pa
Posts: 2,152
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Graphitedust
Hi All... I'm occasionally racing a 4 cell/ mod powered 1/12 Associated L3. There is no 1/12 class at my local track, so the 1/10 pan cars allow me to race with them. We race 5 min on a high grip asphalt track. I am running an Orion 8x1 @ 18-20 degrees with new sanyo 3000's. I cruise the practice lap, then race 5 min. Gearing is 17/72 (48 pitch) with full size tires. Car is very fast and runs well and has won the "A" a few times.

Issue: I'm having problems dumping or getting VERY soft on the last lap.

Questions: Am I running too much timing, too much motor, too much gearing?

What do you guys run for winds, motors, gearing? I couldn't make 8 minutes with this set-up. Why can a mod sedan make run time?

Comment: 1/12 scale rocks! Kinwald was turning 8.7's with a 7x1 in his sedan....I was turning 8.9's! YaaaaHooooo!
1- yeah you probably have too much motor..... but then agian that would be just enough huh??

2- switch to 64 pitch gears, they are much more efficient...

3- being smoother on the throttle will yeild you the extra 10-20 seconds RT you yearn for....

4- If you would run an 8 min. race you would probably go with less motor and much more conservative timing...
__________________
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
IMPACTPLAYR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2003, 04:57 AM   #3372
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 593
Default

1/12 scale teaches you throttle control.

Throttle control will help your batteries last.

Lower timing will give more torque on the low end, and save some battery along with motor maintnence. Its only a 29 oz car.

I let a freind that was driving a Sedan (TC) with a brush less try out my carpte knife. He was yanking and jerking the throttle. I tried to show him how to use the chasis and some control so the car would go around the track. I have never driven a TC. No interest.
David Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2003, 05:06 AM   #3373
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

graphitedust- I assume you are the track you are talking about is Socal? That seems kinda small for a 8x1 for 12th scale. I would go to a 9 or 10 double, you will have slightly less torque and thus more runtime. maybe even try an 8x3 or 4 and gear it more agressively. also pick up some 3300's, that should help you out alot as well. and if that doesnt work try a reciever pack.
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2003, 12:33 PM   #3374
Tech Apprentice
 
JohnnyRotten's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: niagara falls
Posts: 63
Default

David,

yes there is a 12thscaler Nitro , I have pictures email me
JohnnyRotten is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2003, 03:17 PM   #3375
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: seattle, WA
Posts: 864
Default

What company makes a 1/12 nitro? Or is it something that some guy made with custom made parts? Sounds pretty cool though.

I have to say that getting the rear ride height adjusters on the carpet knife to fit is the biggest pain in the ass. It took me like 10 minutes to get them to fit because I kept having to sand them down and than check em so I didn't make them too small. But otherwise the car is working great. It seems like the front tires wear out faster than the rear tires. I thought the rear tires would wear out faster because of how much softer they are. But it looks like the front are wearing faster.
racerdx6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:55 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0