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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-04-2010, 08:14 AM   #33706
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Rollout is a combination of a number of variables including tyre diameter, Final Drive Ratio (which is always 1 for 12th scales) pinion and spur.

Fill in the boxes on the link above (except for the motor rpm) and click the rollout button to give you a chart.

Effectively its the distance which the car will move for 1 turn of the motor.


Well this link will do the trick that is....
http://www.rcracing.com/Gear_Ratio_Program_1100.cfm
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:16 AM   #33707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Rollout is a combination of a number of variables including tyre diameter, Final Drive Ratio (which is always 1 for 12th scales) pinion and spur.

Fill in the boxes on the link above (except for the motor rpm) and click the rollout button to give you a chart.

Effectively its the distance which the car will move for 1 turn of the motor.


Well this link will do the trick that is....
http://www.rcracing.com/Gear_Ratio_Program_1100.cfm
Final Drive will not always be one, internal drive ratio will be.
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Old 03-04-2010, 09:49 AM   #33708
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I have desided to install a 5,5turn motor instead of the 4,0Turn.

The specs on the X12 5,5turn says 35mm rollout.

If i have it correct, then i should run a 96T Spur (this is already installed in the car), 26T Pinion, and tires with 41mm in diameter.
That will give me a 34.88mm rollout.

Is this correct?

And can i run smaller Pinions? I guess it will give me more acceleration but less top speed?
And what about the motor size? I guess the 4Turn will eat the battery alot quicker than the 5,5Turn.
I need to have the car running for at least 10 minutes on one 1S 4600mAh 40C Reedy LiPo.
Can both motors due this?
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Old 03-04-2010, 10:33 AM   #33709
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[QUOTE=Frank-DK;7090007]I have desided to install a 5,5turn motor instead of the 4,0Turn.

The specs on the X12 5,5turn says 35mm rollout.

If i have it correct, then i should run a 96T Spur (this is already installed in the car), 26T Pinion, and tires with 41mm in diameter.
That will give me a 34.88mm rollout.

Is this correct?

And can i run smaller Pinions? I guess it will give me more acceleration but less top speed?
And what about the motor size? I guess the 4Turn will eat the battery alot quicker than the 5,5Turn.
I need to have the car running for at least 10 minutes on one 1S 4600mAh 40C Reedy LiPo.
Can both motors due this?[/QUOyou prob wont make a run time of ten minutes with either of those motors without fear of over discharging your lipo. those motors are battery hogs. i was running a 6.5 and the car was stupid fast, way too much motor even with a 1s lipo. we run 13.5 at our track and it is pretty good, i think a 10.5 is just right however.
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:34 PM   #33710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defcone View Post
Final Drive will not always be one, internal drive ratio will be.
Ooops sorry, I'll let you win one heat tonight for correcting me!
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:44 PM   #33711
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kawirider,

Yes that would be right with the spur pinion and tyre diameter.

with regards to run time, i suspect you would make run time, however, runtime is dependent on many factors outside of what you have listed.
Track grip and layout/size, driving style, speedie (or speedie settings).

You may make runtime with a 5.5, im gunna guess you wont make 10 minutes with a 4T
You will know when the battery dumps the car speed will start to drop off quite markedly.
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Old 03-06-2010, 09:40 PM   #33712
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Hi I am new in 1/12 scale. I am wondering which servo is most suitable for this scale. I am running on Cyclone 12 thks for adverise.
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Old 03-06-2010, 10:03 PM   #33713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bl4 View Post
Hi I am new in 1/12 scale. I am wondering which servo is most suitable for this scale. I am running on Cyclone 12 thks for adverise.
Theres acouple to choose from.

Futaba 9650
JR Z-3650

Hitec doesnt really make a suitable servo for this scale.

Shawn.
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:11 AM   #33714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bl4 View Post
Hi I am new in 1/12 scale. I am wondering which servo is most suitable for this scale. I am running on Cyclone 12 thks for adverise.
You can also use the KoPropo PDS-951ICS Digital Servo, the specs are as listed below.

VOLTAGE:6V
TORQUE:108.3oz
SPEED: 0.09 S @ 60
BEARINGS:YES, DBL
LEAD CONNECTOR: GOLD PLATED
GEARS:METALWEIGHT: 0.95 oz
SIZE: 1.42x1.21x0.59 in

For your convenience you can find more of KoPropo Products @ www.Kopropousa.com.

Best of luck on your path forward ......... Regards!!!

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Old 03-07-2010, 03:50 AM   #33715
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Heres a low down of my 2010 New Zealand nationals winning setup for my 12r5.1

Electronics:
Spektrum Micro
LRP SXX (with heat sink)
1s Lipo 5000mah IP
2s rcracer receiver pack
tried variation of 4.5t X12, 4.5t Novak Lite, and 7.5 X11

I began testing with my 4.5t X12 LRP but it had too much torque for the traction at Christchurch, and it was getting too hot for me to gear it any taller. my Novak 4.5t lite wasn’t soo bad, as it has a smoother torque range, but that and the LRP were sucking out most of 1s Lipo battery, and there’s nothing worse then if you are in a final and you are unsure if you are going to dump or not. I put in my LRP 7.5t X11 (same motor i ran at the last nationals), and there was a lot less torque which was good, and I kept gearing it up and up and up, as well as cranking the timing on the ESC until it reached the perfect temp. I originally started with a gear ratio of 96 spur 35 pinion, and ended up at the end of the weekend with an 88 spur and a 46 pinion with the motor running at 60 degrees, and only 3300mah used in the whole 8 minute race. I think a 6.5t motor would be perfect for the track.

I tried the jaco double pink front tyres throughout the weekend also, but it gave too much initial steering, and the tyres wore out extremely quick.

Changes I made to stock setup (which can’t be seen on the setup sheet):

* Put shims either side of the front wishbones to make the front wider, which settles the car down greatly.
* Put 1 more rear shim in at the back each side to make the rear slightly wider for more mid-exit corner grip.
* Used the Small ackerman shims for slightly less steering
* Cut the center shock shaft 10mm, as standard it wasn’t giving enough forward droop
* replaced carbide diff balls with ceramic

There are a few videos of the pro12 finals here (mine is the pink and green car):
http://www.rcracer.co.nz/?p=308

Setup sheet:
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:36 AM   #33716
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What are most guys finding is a good starting diameter for their tires.? I'm coming back to 1/12th after a bit of a break, and the numbers escape me.
Also, what's a decent rollout to start at for 1s 13.5?
Thanks,

Danny
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:19 AM   #33717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bl4 View Post
Hi I am new in 1/12 scale. I am wondering which servo is most suitable for this scale. I am running on Cyclone 12 thks for adverise.
The futaba servo fits best in the HB car!
I have them both and I found that with the KO servo I had to shave down the ant. mount to get it to clear

I highly recomend getting the optional Center servo mount too
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:02 AM   #33718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casey Belarde View Post
The futaba servo fits best in the HB car!
I have them both and I found that with the KO servo I had to shave down the ant. mount to get it to clear

I highly recomend getting the optional Center servo mount too
Thks for the info
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:21 AM   #33719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny-b23 View Post
What are most guys finding is a good starting diameter for their tires.? I'm coming back to 1/12th after a bit of a break, and the numbers escape me.
Also, what's a decent rollout to start at for 1s 13.5?
Thanks,

Danny
Cut rears to 43mm, fronts to 41mm. Rollout depends on the track, conditions and ESC, etc.
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Old 03-08-2010, 01:10 PM   #33720
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Hi 12 racers..

I just opened the new indoor carpet rc track in Chino, CA.

It's perfect for 1/12 racing, also F1, 1/10 sedan and mini.

90'X45' CRC Carpet and barrier, super flat and smooth

Please check out at www.tqrcracing.com

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