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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-25-2010, 08:00 PM   #33646
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Do yourself a favor and get a Futaba 9560.
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Old 02-25-2010, 08:15 PM   #33647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronb View Post
I'm new to 1/12th scale pan cars, and I have a question regarding servo needs for this class. I did a search on this thread on servo's, but all I found was REALLY old messages on the subject.
The manual says that a "micro" servo is recommended, but I'm a little leery of what each manufacturer might consider "Micro". I'm looking at a Hitec HSG - 5084MG Digital servo with these specs -

Motor type: 3 Pole
Bearing type: Metal Gear
Speed: 0.07 @ 6v
Torque: 26oz @ 6v, or 1.9kg.cm
size: 29mm x 13mm x 30mm (34mm mount points-which appear to fit the left side)

Is that enough torque? This sure is a small little burger—I"m used to 1/10th scale servo's. Any help is much appreciated.

...Ron
Ron,


Hitec HSG - 5084MG, will fit in a 12th scale, the sizing is a little smaller than JR Z3650

Depending on what car you are running JR Z3650 is my choice.

Spend a little more and get JR Z3650.

Found this being metal gear also faster over the Futaba S9650, this is just personal preference however.

It don't fit in the RC12 due to the servo being mounted to the deck, can be done via servo tape just make sure you warm up the tape before hand to get a good seal.

CRC, Xray and Serpent 120 all have servo post like TC's.. so can run something smaller.


Hope this helps

Alex
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Old 02-25-2010, 08:27 PM   #33648
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Default Servo suggestion

Thanks Me_MrTyson,

I'll look into the JR servo.

I have a XRay XII Link, with the Novak Havoc 1S ESC/Novak 13.5SS Pro brushless motor, Spektrum SR3500 micro receiver, and a 1S lipo. This is looking to be tons of fun!!!

...Ron
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:10 PM   #33649
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Default mod motor

Hey guys what mod motor do you recomend using in 12th mod?

I am thinking of getting a 4.5T-6.5T that got a smooth acc curve.
Thanks
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:20 PM   #33650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ds400 View Post
Hey guys what mod motor do you recomend using in 12th mod?

I am thinking of getting a 4.5T-6.5T that got a smooth acc curve.
Thanks
4-4.5t with lipo is the norm i have seen I use a 4t
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:27 PM   #33651
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Default mod motor

I run cells. Most of the guys run 5.5T-7.5T...

Need to get a new motor asap as my old one is dead...
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Old 02-25-2010, 10:00 PM   #33652
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Default Speaking of motors

Is there a prevalent brushless motor for stock racing in 1/12 racing? 13.5, 10.5?
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Old 02-25-2010, 10:06 PM   #33653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronb View Post
Is there a prevalent brushless motor for stock racing in 1/12 racing? 13.5, 10.5?
Stock is defined to by ROAR to be 17.5 brushless, 1s LiPo. 13.5 is considered SuperStock. Anything hotter than 13.5 is considered Modified.
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Old 02-25-2010, 11:26 PM   #33654
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Originally Posted by ds400 View Post
I run cells. Most of the guys run 5.5T-7.5T...

Need to get a new motor asap as my old one is dead...
Ok in that case, i would go a 5 or 5.5 What brand are you thinking? Lrp or SP are good
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:42 AM   #33655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gubbs3 View Post
Its been awhile since I've heard much talk of people running unregulated receiver packs. For those who have, how are the servos holding up? I'm running a Futaba and just haven't heard much about it.
Most guys are running the LiFe recv packs and you don't need a reg with them , they have lower voltage than lipo



?
So for an asphalt 100' track best mod with infiled drivability would be 4.5-5.5?
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:49 AM   #33656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank-DK View Post
I have just purchased a slightly used LRP SXX Comp ESC, but there are no motor wires on it.
What thickness should i use?
14AWG or 16AWG?

I run a LRP Vector X12 5,5T motor and 1s Lipo.
Is 16AWG thick enough?


And are there anyone who will post a picture of there car with a RX battery?
I need some ideas where to place it on my Associated 12R5.1
16swg is fine. Try to get the flexible type, of which I hear good things about O'Donnell's noodle wire - check his website.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronb View Post
I'm new to 1/12th scale pan cars, and I have a question regarding servo needs for this class. I did a search on this thread on servo's, but all I found was REALLY old messages on the subject.
The manual says that a "micro" servo is recommended, but I'm a little leery of what each manufacturer might consider "Micro". I'm looking at a Hitec HSG - 5084MG Digital servo with these specs -

Motor type: 3 Pole
Bearing type: Metal Gear
Speed: 0.07 @ 6v
Torque: 26oz @ 6v, or 1.9kg.cm
size: 29mm x 13mm x 30mm (34mm mount points-which appear to fit the left side)

Is that enough torque? This sure is a small little burgeróI"m used to 1/10th scale servo's. Any help is much appreciated.

...Ron
I would avoid the HiTec servos for 12th. Everyone I know who has tried one (quite a few!) has abandoned them because they don't centre very well. Advice on JR and Futaba selections is backed up by the fact that they are used by every driver I know! HTH
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Old 02-26-2010, 04:05 PM   #33657
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I would like to get into 1/12 on carpet just bashing. I would like to run the fastest motor/esc combo thatís still controllable, and I have to run Lipo or LiFe, never want to deal with NIMH again.

I would like suggestions on whatís the cheapest setup (which chassis and what modification needed to fit LIPO batteries, which motor/esc combo, which battery)? I would love to see your setup pics.

I already have an old KO EX-10 and spectrum module.
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Old 02-26-2010, 05:44 PM   #33658
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Originally Posted by syrss View Post
I would like to get into 1/12 on carpet just bashing. I would like to run the fastest motor/esc combo thatís still controllable, and I have to run Lipo or LiFe, never want to deal with NIMH again.

I would like suggestions on whatís the cheapest setup (which chassis and what modification needed to fit LIPO batteries, which motor/esc combo, which battery)? I would love to see your setup pics.

I already have an old KO EX-10 and spectrum module.
1/12 carpet bashing???????

Sorry, I don't get it.

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Old 02-26-2010, 05:53 PM   #33659
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Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
1/12 carpet bashing???????

Sorry, I don't get it.

That's why Mark has the fastest lap in 1/12 at Debbie's
Tim
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Old 02-26-2010, 07:21 PM   #33660
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Originally Posted by got2bqik View Post
That's why Mark has the fastest lap in 1/12 at Debbie's
Tim
That one fastest lap and five bucks will get you a coffee at Starbucks.
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