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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-22-2010, 10:36 PM   #33631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHMOTORSPORTS View Post
Has anyone tried the black art bomb yet? Been looking for one..
I just got 1 last week. I havent tried it though, but it looks good. Similar to the new Parma one, and the protoform AMR-12??. It looks a bit more aggressive on the front though. Shark fin looks cool
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Old 02-23-2010, 12:15 AM   #33632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHMOTORSPORTS View Post
I'm not sure about his body. But here is the link to it..
http://www.redrc.net/2010/02/black-a...le-body-shell/
That is the one Vesa Yli was using which is the Black Art Bomb'R .
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Old 02-23-2010, 01:45 AM   #33633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stical View Post
That is the one Vesa Yli was using which is the Black Art Bomb'R .
That's not just the one Vesa was using, he painted it too!

Trev
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Old 02-23-2010, 10:36 AM   #33634
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Default Gearing?

Looking for rollout help:

track: Speedworld 100+straight Asphalt
esc LRP spx
batt: TP 40c 1s
motor Duo1 13.5
LiFe recv pack, not a booster

Thanks for any help!
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Old 02-24-2010, 12:31 AM   #33635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL View Post
Looking for rollout help:

track: Speedworld 100+straight Asphalt
esc LRP spx
batt: TP 40c 1s
motor Duo1 13.5
LiFe recv pack, not a booster

Thanks for any help!
I ran a spx in practice at a Large event this past weekend (NWIC) on carpet, 60 x 100 track, same battery, 5 cell rec pack, sp v3 13.5, sweet spot for RO was 71 mm.
The real trick was to use profile 7, not 8.....

If you're runnin' against Tekins........enjoy the scenery........ tail lights, theirs
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Old 02-25-2010, 11:04 AM   #33636
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Default Servos???

I have been looking at 2 different servos. Airtronics 94761 & Futata 9650 for my new Gen XL. Need advice on which would be better to use.
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Old 02-25-2010, 11:57 AM   #33637
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1/12 Scale European Sports Car Championship

Radio Controlled Model Car Racing at it's very best.

5 – 7th March, Hinckley Leisure Centre
Coventry Road, Hinckley, LE10 0JR

Friday 5th – Practice & Qualification
Saturday 6th - Qualification
Sunday 7th - Finals.

The event features 1/12 scale LMP prototype style cars, driven by the very best RC racers in Europe (The top 120 drivers out of the 30,000 who race)

The cars are electrically powered and compete in10 car 8 minute races, qualification is by laps completed in that time and the finals are decided from a grid start by racing for position.
Performance is outstanding 0-30 in well under a second, 3g plus lateral G, lap times in the order of 12 seconds.

Plus of course all this happens indoors in the warm!

Doors open at 9am each day, with the last race at around 6pm, admission is free.

Special Media Day, Friday 5th March,
Experts on hand to take you through our sport, guided pit tours including behind the scenes of a fully computerised race control facility ( 120 drivers competing in 140+ races all digitally timed ) plus analysis and technical explanations of the cars.

Further Details from:-
Jim Spencer – 07976 623772,
treasurer@brca.org
www.ec2010.org
www.brca.org
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Old 02-25-2010, 12:12 PM   #33638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
I have been looking at 2 different servos. Airtronics 94761 & Futata 9650 for my new Gen XL. Need advice on which would be better to use.
I use the Futaba but both are about equal. It will come down to Chevy vs Ford debates if you ask around for opinions.
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:20 PM   #33639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svines1972 View Post
I have been looking at 2 different servos. Airtronics 94761 & Futata 9650 for my new Gen XL. Need advice on which would be better to use.
I don't know the Airtronics but the Futaba S9650 is very good. Don't forget the JR Z3650 either, I'm running one at the moment and I think it's even faster than the Futaba.

Trev
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:54 PM   #33640
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Default Black art bodies

Hey anyone know where to get Black Art bodies besides CRC? they only have two and i am looking for the new one called Bomb'r
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Old 02-25-2010, 04:29 PM   #33641
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Default Wire thickness for my ESC?

I have just purchased a slightly used LRP SXX Comp ESC, but there are no motor wires on it.
What thickness should i use?
14AWG or 16AWG?

I run a LRP Vector X12 5,5T motor and 1s Lipo.
Is 16AWG thick enough?


And are there anyone who will post a picture of there car with a RX battery?
I need some ideas where to place it on my Associated 12R5.1
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Old 02-25-2010, 04:54 PM   #33642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank-DK View Post
I have just purchased a slightly used LRP SXX Comp ESC, but there are no motor wires on it.
What thickness should i use?
14AWG or 16AWG?

I run a LRP Vector X12 5,5T motor and 1s Lipo.
Is 16AWG thick enough?


And are there anyone who will post a picture of there car with a RX battery?
I need some ideas where to place it on my Associated 12R5.1
16ga is fine. I mounted my Rx battery on top of the servo, just no pictures. Here's the link to the one I use; http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ack-74V-220mAh
Nice size, light weight, and cheap priced.
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Old 02-25-2010, 05:29 PM   #33643
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Its been awhile since I've heard much talk of people running unregulated receiver packs. For those who have, how are the servos holding up? I'm running a Futaba and just haven't heard much about it.
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Old 02-25-2010, 06:39 PM   #33644
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Default 12th scale wire ??

I have a couple rolls of Race Prep wire from back in the early 90's that have never been used ... it seems to be too thin for 14 gauge, and I had a tip that the 12 scale guys may run 16-18 gauge wire if it is flexible, which this is. There are a little over 9' of both both orange and black (18' total), and I also have about 2' of good quality battery braid as well .. drop me a note if you have a use for them.
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Old 02-25-2010, 07:56 PM   #33645
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Default Servo Specs?

I'm new to 1/12th scale pan cars, and I have a question regarding servo needs for this class. I did a search on this thread on servo's, but all I found was REALLY old messages on the subject.
The manual says that a "micro" servo is recommended, but I'm a little leery of what each manufacturer might consider "Micro". I'm looking at a Hitec HSG - 5084MG Digital servo with these specs -

Motor type: 3 Pole
Bearing type: Metal Gear
Speed: 0.07 @ 6v
Torque: 26oz @ 6v, or 1.9kg.cm
size: 29mm x 13mm x 30mm (34mm mount points-which appear to fit the left side)

Is that enough torque? This sure is a small little burger—I"m used to 1/10th scale servo's. Any help is much appreciated.

...Ron
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