R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-08-2003, 03:59 AM   #3346
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 593
Default Here ya Go

Try this for instructions

http://www.rc10.com/shusting/Catalog...hub_onroad.htm
David Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 06:08 AM   #3347
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

Suntan lotion actually works pretty well and doesnt burn off as quickly as other tractoin compounds. however paragon works rather well (it basically melts the tire to make it softer, while suntan lotion more makes it sticky). paragon isnt that bad, only in the state of california does it cause cancer, so you guys in washington should be fine . at some big races (like last years carpet nats) they did not allow it because people got nose bleeds and bad reactions do it, however i dont, yet i got nasty nose bleeds all week from the jack the gripper that they made us use.

as far as which suntan lotion, i heard that CRC tested out alot and found that Hawian Tropic (i think that was the brand) 30SPF worked the best, however all of them pretty much work the same probably.

as far as the IRS diff, here is the order of parts left to right (with the car facing away from you)

axle, D ring, spur gear w/unflanged bearing, D ring, right side hub w/ 2 bearings, spacer (the smaller side should be touching the bearing), diff nut
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 06:43 AM   #3348
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

If you really need bite try this: Paragon, let it soak in for around 30 mins. and wipe it off. THEN apply Banana Boat SPF 50. The suntan lotion will glue the car down in the opening laps of the run, and once the tires warm up the Paragon will work its' magic and the car will be STUCK.

I've been running, (I'm almost ashamed to admit it), touring car this summer, and I've found that Spashett's Tangerine Tyre Tack works extremely well on asphalt, but not having tested it on a 12th scaler, I don't know if it would last 8 mins.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 08:25 AM   #3349
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Newville,Pa
Posts: 2,152
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Stormperson-- your not supposed to be picking your nose with traction compound all over your fingers!!!
__________________
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
IMPACTPLAYR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 09:12 AM   #3350
Tech Adept
 
Cracker78's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 140
Send a message via AIM to Cracker78
Default

While mindlessly daydreaming at work here, I have decided that my new 12th scale car for this fall/winter season is going to be the Speedmerchant Rev3. Previously I have been running a second hand 12l3 and it is now well worn out and needs to be replaced. Just a few questions/concerns. What hopups do I need with the rev3? I will be running on carpet from medium to high traction. Will the stock setup work well? Or do I need other springs? Never had damper tubes before, what oil/grease would I put in there? Does it come with the kit? yadda yadda yadda... all the same questions... just too many posts in this thread to go looking for the answers
Cracker78 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 09:37 AM   #3351
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default

Cracker - the stock kit will be fine. You will need a couple of center springs, a couple of side springs, and a couple of front suspension springs. The center spring in the kit is the Wolfe Black. It is stiffer than any Associated spring for the VCS shock. Sometimes you might need the Associated copper spring for the shock. Orange or blue side springs come in the kit. These are also available from Wolfe. Just make sure you have orange, blue and white progressive springs for the side. The kit has Associated .020 springs for the front suspension. Add .018, .022, and .024. The dampner tubes use Losi Hydrodrive fluid. It comes in 3 grades, thin, medium and thick. You will use medium almost everywhere. Sometimes thin is the ticket when you use the orange side springs. I very rarely use the thick.

Good luck and good racing.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 10:14 AM   #3352
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Cracker: The Only option I can think of might be lowered pod plates, which will just allow you to get a bit more life out of the rear tires.

As far as side Springs: If you keep a set of orange, blue, and white you should have all the springs you'll need for any track. The Shock spring I run varies based on track condition, the smoother the track the stiffer the spring I run, traction permitting. A CRC copper, Speedmerchant Black, CRC stiff silver, and CRC Super Stiff Silver are the ones I keep on hand. On really low bite tracks I've seen people run an AE Red, but I've never felt the need to drop that low. Front Springs, AE 18's, 20's, and 22's. God forbid you ever need a set of 24's.

Tubes: Get Losi Light, Med and Heavy viscosities of Hydradrive fluid. That is all I normally carry, but in some instances with Orange side springs I'll run 100 wt shock oil in the tubes.

I also know a few other individuals who use the Corally lubes, But I've never tried them as they seem far too viscous to me.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 10:15 AM   #3353
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

davidl: Beat me to it!! All this pesky work is getting in the way of my surfing! I started typing my reply minutes after Cracker's post but kept getting interrupted.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 10:32 AM   #3354
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 79
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
as far as the IRS diff, here is the order of parts left to right (with the car facing away from you)

axle, D ring, spur gear w/unflanged bearing, D ring, right side hub w/ 2 bearings, spacer (the smaller side should be touching the bearing), diff nut
Perfect! Thanks. I guess I just assumed that there had to be some sort of spring or spring washer to keep tension on the diff and possibly a thrust bearing. Must just be my limited direct-drive experience showing (Tamiya F103). This seems like it'd be pretty rough on the bearings in that rear hub, but I'll go with it if it's what I need to do. I'll just have to stock up on flanged bearings for it!
__________________
Lots of Tamiya stuff, a little bit of other stuff.
CharlesWA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 10:45 AM   #3355
Tech Elite
 
highwayman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,334
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
If you really need bite try this: Paragon, let it soak in for around 30 mins. and wipe it off. THEN apply Banana Boat SPF 50. The suntan lotion will glue the car down in the opening laps of the run, and once the tires warm up the Paragon will work its' magic and the car will be STUCK.

I've been running, (I'm almost ashamed to admit it), touring car this summer, and I've found that Spashett's Tangerine Tyre Tack works extremely well on asphalt, but not having tested it on a 12th scaler, I don't know if it would last 8 mins.
anyone ever tried this on nitro on road foams?

what's spashett's tangerine tyre tack?
highwayman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 11:18 AM   #3356
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by highwayman
anyone ever tried this on nitro on road foams?

what's spashett's tangerine tyre tack?
Trinity sells it,(of course), It comes in an aplicator bottle like Zip Grip and two hundred other traction compounds trinity sells. It's got citrus oil in it rather than oil of wintergreen. It's less greasy up front than Paragon and Red Dot. Red Dot however, creates too much bite for me once the tires get hot, and Pargon never really feels "locked in" The TTT kinda fits right in between those two.

I've tried it on "Nitro Foams" but never on a Nitro car. I use gas Foams on my X-Ray on occasion. (Usually Ellegi 40 shore)
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 11:55 AM   #3357
Tech Adept
 
Cracker78's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 140
Send a message via AIM to Cracker78
Default

Thanks for the replies davidl and CypressMidWest. I just wish I would have made this decision BEFORE I bought a whole new roll of battery tape!
Cracker78 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 11:57 AM   #3358
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default

Hey guys,

I just reloaded on Speedmerchant stuff. I have kits and all the tuning options in stock (All side and front 0.020, 0.022) springs, Black center spring, etc..). Contact me please via e-mail or call me!!!

Thanks,
Ray 1-888-551-1044
rshuang@ameritech.net
p.s. Please support your LHS or Track if they carry Speedmerchant stuff.
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 12:56 PM   #3359
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

I wouldnt suggest using traction compounds for nitro just because it wears off after 5-10 minutes, and if you have a longer main then your car will change alot. maybe for a fast qual set up, but i wouldnt really suggest it, espically if you are still trying to set up the car for the main and going off your qual run.

as far as the rear axle... Ya, in 12th scale there are no springs to make adjusting the diff less precise, instead the range of diff adjustment from the loosest you would run to the tighest you would run would be around 30 Degrees, lol. but you basically want to run it as loose as possible without having the diff slip.
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2003, 02:17 PM   #3360
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default

I am sorry, oh great CMW. Possesser of all 1/12 scale knowledge and information. I will repent by not posting again on something you can handle.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
Peakki
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:08 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0