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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-18-2010, 02:33 AM   #33571
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Have you tried this booster with the Tekin RS esc on V203?
I've been using the RC Dynamics booster with V203 and a Redline 10.5 since the firmware came out. No problems at all. Had problems with a TQ booster with both 200 and 203 and the RC Dynamics one fixed them, as well as speeding up my servo! It's a JR servo as well, which some people say they have had problems with when using boosters.

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Old 02-18-2010, 04:05 AM   #33572
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Default Rear Pod Plate (Gen XL)

Anyone owning a CRC 1/12 Gen XL needs to check out Troy's website:

http://mckunedesign.com/genxpodplate.html

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Old 02-18-2010, 11:12 AM   #33573
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Originally Posted by argyle43 View Post
Carpet track just opened up in town. I'm thinking about either the Associated 1/12 12R5.1, BMI Racing DB12RR Pro Racing Lipo Edition, or the CRC Gen-XL Carpet Knife 1/12. What do you guys suggest\why. Thanks for the help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
All 3 of those cars are great options and you can't go wrong with any one of them. I would suggest finding out what parts the LHS at the track is going to stock and factor that into your decision. That said I highly recommend the BMI (I am biased as I drive one). The main reason I like it is the rear suspension. The way it is designed you don't have to mess around with tweak screws or side roll springs. Other than that the design follows pretty traditional 1/12th design. This makes it simpler for me to setup and maintain. And the car handles very well. But if you do decide on the BMI hold off for just a little while...the car is getting updated with parts that were tested at the Snowbirds

I'll just second m the recomendation for the BMI, I'm still driving the original DB12R and love it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
I've been using the RC Dynamics booster with V203 and a Redline 10.5 since the firmware came out. No problems at all. Had problems with a TQ booster with both 200 and 203 and the RC Dynamics one fixed them, as well as speeding up my servo! It's a JR servo as well, which some people say they have had problems with when using boosters.

Trev
Thanks, I've not had any issues with the TQ on V200 but another local racer tried V203 with the novak booster and it did'nt work well at all.
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Old 02-18-2010, 02:22 PM   #33574
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Have you tried this booster with the Tekin RS esc on V203?
Same set-up as Trev, no problems at all. Servo speed is good, no drop-off in any electronics during a race. Thanks to complete brain fade on my part, it worked even when I dumped the LiPo pack below 3v because I forgot to charge the LiPo!

No connection to RC Dynamics, except a love of their product! HTH
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Old 02-18-2010, 02:57 PM   #33575
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Same set-up as Trev, no problems at all. Servo speed is good, no drop-off in any electronics during a race. Thanks to complete brain fade on my part, it worked even when I dumped the LiPo pack below 3v because I forgot to charge the LiPo!

No connection to RC Dynamics, except a love of their product! HTH
Do you guys with the reciever pack have to charger them after each race? is there a pack that will last a whole day of racing? What is a life pack why would you use this instead of a lipo pack?
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Old 02-18-2010, 03:07 PM   #33576
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Originally Posted by whynot View Post
Do you guys with the reciever pack have to charger them after each race? is there a pack that will last a whole day of racing? What is a life pack why would you use this instead of a lipo pack?
I use a 330mah lipo. I only use about 80mah a run so I could go three runs on it with no problem but I charge it every two.

LiFe is a different battery type that is lower voltage, 6.6 volts so no worries about over juicing the electronics.
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Old 02-18-2010, 03:12 PM   #33577
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Originally Posted by whynot View Post
Do you guys with the reciever pack have to charger them after each race? is there a pack that will last a whole day of racing? What is a life pack why would you use this instead of a lipo pack?
I have almost the same question.

Approximately how many milleamps will be drawn from a LiFe receiver pack in an 8 minute run with a 13.5 and Tekin RS, and, what is the largest capacity LiFe receiver pack that will fit a 1/12th? Not looking to switch unless I can run three heats without having to recharge.
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Old 02-18-2010, 03:25 PM   #33578
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Remember with LiFe, you don't have to charge them at 1c. You can charge one up in just a few minutes.
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:16 PM   #33579
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Do you need a special charger to charge the LiFe battery?
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:52 PM   #33580
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Originally Posted by PDX-Spike View Post
I have almost the same question.

Approximately how many milleamps will be drawn from a LiFe receiver pack in an 8 minute run with a 13.5 and Tekin RS, and, what is the largest capacity LiFe receiver pack that will fit a 1/12th? Not looking to switch unless I can run three heats without having to recharge.
Then don't switch, use the RC Dynamics booster instead. You'll need at least a 350mAh pack to do three runs. That won't fit easily in a 12th car, and even then you might not get three full runs from it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RacinJ View Post
Do you need a special charger to charge the LiFe battery?
Yes. Most good chargers you get for LiPo have an LiFe setting. You must use a charger with specific settings for LiFe batteries, and nothing else. HTH
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Old 02-18-2010, 10:48 PM   #33581
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GOOD GRIEF! I started surfing around to look at the RC Dynamics booster and found the site. Scrolled to the bottom and found the price . . . ~33 pounds=~80 dollars US.
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Old 02-19-2010, 01:41 AM   #33582
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GOOD GRIEF! I started surfing around to look at the RC Dynamics booster and found the site. Scrolled to the bottom and found the price . . . ~33 pounds=~80 dollars US.
actually, 33. British pounds would exchange to 51. US dollars.

Still a bit to pay, but if its well designed, as it seems to be, and it works when you need it to, which would be always, its worth it.

Too bad the Novak booster is designed around an IC that clips out at 3.3volts. I like the 3 amp output capability, but it is useless since it drops out and causes receiver issues. Had thought of making my own when 1s first hit the track, may have to again.
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Old 02-19-2010, 04:33 AM   #33583
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GOOD GRIEF! I started surfing around to look at the RC Dynamics booster and found the site. Scrolled to the bottom and found the price . . . ~33 pounds=~80 dollars US.
thats what I was saying WOW,So I went to tqcells.com and bought my son and I one of their boosters. some of the guys at my track use this one with no problems at all
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Old 02-19-2010, 05:01 AM   #33584
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GOOD GRIEF! I started surfing around to look at the RC Dynamics booster and found the site. Scrolled to the bottom and found the price . . . ~33 pounds=~80 dollars US.
Can you tell me where you get that exchange rate from?
I have lots of pounds I want to change at that rate
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Old 02-19-2010, 06:17 AM   #33585
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Can you tell me where you get that exchange rate from?
I have lots of pounds I want to change at that rate
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldrcr View Post
actually, 33. British pounds would exchange to 51. US dollars.

Still a bit to pay, but if its well designed, as it seems to be, and it works when you need it to, which would be always, its worth it.

Too bad the Novak booster is designed around an IC that clips out at 3.3volts. I like the 3 amp output capability, but it is useless since it drops out and causes receiver issues. Had thought of making my own when 1s first hit the track, may have to again.
I went to google and copied it. I must have goofed! 51 is the correct amount.
I copied the page. I dunno why it comes up like that . . . ?
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