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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-10-2010, 01:11 PM   #33511
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I still don't think pinks are going to give enough rear grip.
Well, then that's a problem. Pinks are about as grippy as it gets. Maybe try whites with sun tan lotion but they will wear faster.

It might be better to stick with a pink rear and go harder on the fronts until you find the balance. Maybe purples.
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:12 PM   #33512
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Double pinks don't work on this track I have tried. It isn't a parking lot track it is a purpose built track that is outdoors. Unfortunately they have a lot of bugs in the area so we can't spray down sugar water. One of our racers tried pink rear dbl pink front and couldn't get enough traction either. However he really didn't try any setup changes from what we used to run at my parking lot track which was sprayed with sugar water. I still don't think pinks are going to give enough rear grip.
I am in FL so we have bugs too. However, the track surface is usually so hot bugs wont get on it.

If you can't use sugar water I hate to say you might want to try VHT. I don't like VHT because once you use it you are trapped into having to keep using it. It is very sticky and basically glues dirt and dust to the track between race days...so you have to put more on all the time and pressure wash the track once in a while.

If pink rears wont work you are in serious trouble. Trinity used to sell a platinum dot natural rubber foam that was softer than pink dot but it really just wore faster and didn't give more traction on asphalt.
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:28 PM   #33513
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Yeah I really don't want to go to whites due to the wear. VHT is just too expensive to be an alternative...been through all this many pages back. If the info I got back then on the Molzer stuff is accurate then that may work out for us. I was thinking yellows were softer than pink but now that I look at shore chart I see that it is not. Rubber tire TCs have enough traction on the track but just can't seem to get foamies to work at all. Just barely touching the throttle gets it all loose in the back. There is already ant holes under the track so the owner really wants to avoid sugar water. Personally I've never had an issue with sugar water attracting bugs...probably for the reason you state, the surface is too hot.
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Old 02-10-2010, 02:59 PM   #33514
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Outdoors on asphalt we always run double pink front and rear in Mod and 17.5. This is on parking lot type tracks blown clean with a leaf blower and very lightly sprayed with sugar water (just to keep any leftover dust down).

For traction compound most of us run Paragon on the full rear and inner 1/2 of the front for 5 min with a layer of cheap runny suntan lotion over the same areas for another 15 min or so. If you run straight traction compound the tires will pick up dust and you car will start spinning out after a couple minutes. The sun tan lotion reduces the stickiness of the tires and make the traction last a full 8min or longer. Everyone does this outdoors.
Hi Adrian, could you reccomend an approach for an indoor asphalt track (WCRC in california). the bite is very high(grip like carpet but cold, hard and abrasive), the asphalt mix used has no visible rock, just tar and very smooth. they occasionally treat the track in spots with WD-40.

FYI, using black/grey with JTG works ok, but i am struggling to get a natural rubber tire choice to work for better wear characteristics. i thought i was close with purple/magenta and 24 front spring (bmi) and short thick gr/ep flexbars and copper center spring. but it is still touchy. could suntan lotion make the front more predictable?
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:06 PM   #33515
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Why would they treat the track with WD40?
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:18 PM   #33516
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi guys, does any know, or can anyone tell me who makes the motor shaft extender? I run a Corally car that uses long boss pinions but can't get big enough long boss pinions to get the correct gearing. I have loads of big 'standard' boss pinions so I thought the extender thing would be the way to go. any help is appreciated! Cheers.
I tried contacting them before but the emails I sent just got bounced back, you might want to try calling them seeing as you are in the US. Failing that give Neil at www.rwracing.co.uk a shout and he will make the sizes you need for you. He had some old stock that he had made previously but otherwise he was going to make them to size for me. Fair price and a good service, email replys can be a little slow (few days) if he is busy though.
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:48 PM   #33517
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Thanks guys.
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Old 02-10-2010, 05:18 PM   #33518
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RC12 5R Front End Kit

can one be bought as a complete kit?
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:26 PM   #33519
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Why would they treat the track with WD40?
It softens the actual asphalt oil that binds the rock/gravel/sand aggregate and increases traction...pretty dramatically. This only works on clean indoor asphalt tracks where the asphalt never oxidizes (no rain, UV exposure indoors).
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:34 PM   #33520
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Hi Adrian, could you reccomend an approach for an indoor asphalt track (WCRC in california). the bite is very high(grip like carpet but cold, hard and abrasive), the asphalt mix used has no visible rock, just tar and very smooth. they occasionally treat the track in spots with WD-40.

FYI, using black/grey with JTG works ok, but i am struggling to get a natural rubber tire choice to work for better wear characteristics. i thought i was close with purple/magenta and 24 front spring (bmi) and short thick gr/ep flexbars and copper center spring. but it is still touchy. could suntan lotion make the front more predictable?
Suntan lotion might work. You will just have to try it.

If the traction is really high you might what to try going in the other direction with car setup. The carpet guys run their cars pretty soft when the traction is high. Stiff cars have very fast weight transfer and this makes them feel very touchy and can lear to traction rolling. Try the long thin fiberglass flex plates with fairly light rear damping in the tubes, a gold rear spring and .022 front BMI springs. This will let the car roll more and smooth it out.
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:53 PM   #33521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Suntan lotion might work. You will just have to try it.

If the traction is really high you might what to try going in the other direction with car setup. The carpet guys run their cars pretty soft when the traction is high. Stiff cars have very fast weight transfer and this makes them feel very touchy and can lear to traction rolling. Try the long thin fiberglass flex plates with fairly light rear damping in the tubes, a gold rear spring and .022 front BMI springs. This will let the car roll more and smooth it out.
Hmmm, I thought when traction is really high you go stiffer to keep the car from chassis roll. A high grip track with a softer setup will cause the car to bog down in the corner with to much grip right?
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:55 PM   #33522
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It softens the actual asphalt oil that binds the rock/gravel/sand aggregate and increases traction...pretty dramatically. This only works on clean indoor asphalt tracks where the asphalt never oxidizes (no rain, UV exposure indoors).
Ah I get it...I would imagine also that the asphalt would have to not be coated in a sealant.
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:56 PM   #33523
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Gadget, I was having the same problem when we went to LiPos over here. What I figured out was going to purples in front with either a .022 or .024 asc. front springs with the pinks in the rear. I have been using this on my OD12/L4 conversion car. I got so tired of the 12r5 just mot staying planted enough in the rear that I went back to a t-plate car. However one of the other guys tried something simular and it worked for him as well. This was even with the track treated with sugar water.
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Old 02-10-2010, 08:16 PM   #33524
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Suntan lotion might work. You will just have to try it.

If the traction is really high you might what to try going in the other direction with car setup. The carpet guys run their cars pretty soft when the traction is high. Stiff cars have very fast weight transfer and this makes them feel very touchy and can lear to traction rolling. Try the long thin fiberglass flex plates with fairly light rear damping in the tubes, a gold rear spring and .022 front BMI springs. This will let the car roll more and smooth it out.
ok, that makes sense. but what tire choice would you suggest working towards? ie; synthetic high wear, or natural low wear?
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Old 02-10-2010, 08:20 PM   #33525
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
It softens the actual asphalt oil that binds the rock/gravel/sand aggregate and increases traction...pretty dramatically. This only works on clean indoor asphalt tracks where the asphalt never oxidizes (no rain, UV exposure indoors).
yeah, it seemed odd to me when i first saw them doing it, but it works, especially for the rubber TC crowd. (foam tires are definitely in the minority,but grip is high with any tire)
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