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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-06-2010, 03:35 PM   #33496
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
How about JR servos?
The older 3550 does NOT like 7.4 volts where the newer 3650 is OK from what I hear of the guys running them. I use a booster with the 3550 with no issues.
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:56 PM   #33497
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Default Personalized Pod Plates for GenX10 and Gen XL

For those of you that have expressed interest, I have updated the website and am setup to take orders for personalized pod plates. Prior to Snowbirds, I made up two each for some of the CRC drivers: Hupo, Frank, Bryan, Mario, Dave Ehrlich, and Brian Bodine. Dave handed them out at Snowbirds and said they were a big hit with the drivers. If you have any questions please pm me on RCtech or email off my website.

The website is setup to take orders for individuals wanting 1 or 2+ engraved with our standard font (Arial Black Italic Bold) filled with white acrylic paint. Leadtime is 1-2 weeks plus shipping. I will take custom orders of 10 or more for teams, hobbyshops, or manufacturers. Email or Call for pricing (visit website's contact us page).

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Old 02-06-2010, 07:15 PM   #33498
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Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
The older 3550 does NOT like 7.4 volts where the newer 3650 is OK from what I hear of the guys running them. I use a booster with the 3550 with no issues.
I run the 3650 and 3550 both on 7.4, if you don't run a regulator you may have to change the frame rate on your radio, I have to run one slower on frame rate when I don't run a regulator, if I don't change frame rate the servo will not center consistency
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:23 AM   #33499
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Default What tires!

I'm new to pancars so I need to know what tires to get (shores/colors). I'll be running it in two different surfaces carpet and indoor tarmac plus do I really need to true the tires? at what size thanks.
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:35 AM   #33500
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I'm new to pancars so I need to know what tires to get (shores/colors). I'll be running it in two different surfaces carpet and indoor tarmac plus do I really need to true the tires? at what size thanks.

The best answer is go to the tracks and see what the guys there are running. But if you want some general guesses it would help to know what class your running.
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:48 AM   #33501
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The best answer is go to the tracks and see what the guys there are running. But if you want some general guesses it would help to know what class your running.
Well for the tarmac there is no 1/12 class right now I'm just running for fun
at the carpet track is going to open soon but most likely i'll be racing 13.5 class with 1 cell lipo.
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:54 PM   #33502
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Originally Posted by <PsOp> View Post
Well for the tarmac there is no 1/12 class right now I'm just running for fun
at the carpet track is going to open soon but most likely i'll be racing 13.5 class with 1 cell lipo.

Sounds like you are going to WestCoast and TQ, correct? There are people there that are willing to help, myself included. Sean has all the goodies(tires, gearing, etc...) in stock or will have by the time he is open. What car are you running?
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Old 02-09-2010, 02:45 PM   #33503
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Hi guys, does any know, or can anyone tell me who makes the motor shaft extender? I run a Corally car that uses long boss pinions but can't get big enough long boss pinions to get the correct gearing. I have loads of big 'standard' boss pinions so I thought the extender thing would be the way to go. any help is appreciated! Cheers.
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Old 02-09-2010, 02:49 PM   #33504
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi guys, does any know, or can anyone tell me who makes the motor shaft extender? I run a Corally car that uses long boss pinions but can't get big enough long boss pinions to get the correct gearing. I have loads of big 'standard' boss pinions so I thought the extender thing would be the way to go. any help is appreciated! Cheers.
Niftech

http://www.niftech.com/catalog.php?mode=4000

You have to trim the motor shaft a bit to get everything to line up correctly, but it works for using standard pinions with the Corally car.
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:37 PM   #33505
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Originally Posted by <PsOp> View Post
Well for the tarmac there is no 1/12 class right now I'm just running for fun
at the carpet track is going to open soon but most likely i'll be racing 13.5 class with 1 cell lipo.
at WCRC, Eric P and Tony N have been using synthetic rears (grey) and firm fronts (black, purple and sometimes lilac)
at first we had a race going tuesday nights which has shifted to saturday.

At WCRC, i have had difficulty finding a setup to work with natural rubber. black/grey has been the easiest to get working. i haven't given up on getting a 2xpink or magenta rear to work, but the traction becomes unpredictable with the grippier rubber and firm suspension.

for stock carpet, lilac/yellow or lilac/grey could be a common choice, but at OCRC i had to run black fronts fully sauced. i am hopeful that TQ won't have that situation
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:10 PM   #33506
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi guys, does any know, or can anyone tell me who makes the motor shaft extender? I run a Corally car that uses long boss pinions but can't get big enough long boss pinions to get the correct gearing. I have loads of big 'standard' boss pinions so I thought the extender thing would be the way to go. any help is appreciated! Cheers.
This may be an option, I run them on a 12R5 though, don't know if they are long enough for the Corally.
http://www.titaniumracing.com/menu.asp?menu_id=38
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:25 PM   #33507
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Those look great but I don't think they will work on a Corally. The set screw is too close to the teeth.
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:38 PM   #33508
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http://molzermoweryracing.com/acatal..._Products.html
Look into this, they are only mixing it 2 quarts to 15 gallons of water. So the 5:1 ratio is not accurate, that would be real expensive. Pretty sure this was used at 301 Raceway in MD.
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I'm going to be ordering an assortment of tires this weekend to try and get grip without a treatment...I'm thinking orange and pink rears and purple and dbl pink or lilac fronts to see if I can get something reasonable to work.

In the mean time I went to 301's web site and could not find an e-mail address to contact them with. Do you know of one I can use to get more information on how they used this additive? Looks like from the size of their track using only 2 quarts compared to our track which is less than half the size, we could probably get by with only 1 quart and still mix it stronger.

Keeping my fingers crossed that I'll be able to talk the track owner into letting us use this.
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:15 AM   #33509
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Outdoors on asphalt we always run double pink front and rear in Mod and 17.5. This is on parking lot type tracks blown clean with a leaf blower and very lightly sprayed with sugar water (just to keep any leftover dust down).

For traction compound most of us run Paragon on the full rear and inner 1/2 of the front for 5 min with a layer of cheap runny suntan lotion over the same areas for another 15 min or so. If you run straight traction compound the tires will pick up dust and you car will start spinning out after a couple minutes. The sun tan lotion reduces the stickiness of the tires and make the traction last a full 8min or longer. Everyone does this outdoors.
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:36 AM   #33510
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Double pinks don't work on this track I have tried. It isn't a parking lot track it is a purpose built track that is outdoors. Unfortunately they have a lot of bugs in the area so we can't spray down sugar water. One of our racers tried pink rear dbl pink front and couldn't get enough traction either. However he really didn't try any setup changes from what we used to run at my parking lot track which was sprayed with sugar water. I still don't think pinks are going to give enough rear grip.
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