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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-05-2003, 12:46 PM   #3331
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hi guys , I like to know what is the normal peak voltage of a 3300 sanyo 4 cell pack?


i normally will get 6.5v peak but today after cycling 2x and trayed ,my 3300 peaked at 7.0v!
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Old 07-05-2003, 01:14 PM   #3332
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Default not tracking straight

guys there wasnt any thing wrong with mo's car at the nat i was running the only yokomo in the field and had some wandering problem the first day of practice and solved it by creating xtra play in the steering letting the car track by itself and as far as the corally guys shad was the only one dialed in. i finished sixth thanks to first turn pile ups.
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Old 07-05-2003, 01:16 PM   #3333
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Quote:
Originally posted by TrackMagnet
hi guys , I like to know what is the normal peak voltage of a 3300 sanyo 4 cell pack?


i normally will get 6.5v peak but today after cycling 2x and trayed ,my 3300 peaked at 7.0v!
i found the same thing happens when i tray my batts... that's why i just bring them down to 3.6 volts for 4 cell and 5.4 for 6 cell...

also, sanyo's peak higher than GP's...
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Old 07-05-2003, 01:30 PM   #3334
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i have already trayed 0.9v per cell . So what's the normal peak voltage you will get for your 4 cell 3300 sanyo?
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Old 07-05-2003, 01:54 PM   #3335
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I probalby should stop posting things right when i wake and and right before i go to bed, lol.

My bad, Alex Lopez won stock 12th (i should know since i was pitting across from him, lol) at the carpet nats.
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Old 07-05-2003, 06:18 PM   #3336
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Track Magnet

Where did you get that avaitor?
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Old 07-06-2003, 06:09 AM   #3337
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Rear Axle`

I saw a post a while ago of a hobby shop that had low cost graphite rear axles. The hobby shop was in Warsaw NY. I live about an hour from there and would like to go down there and pick one up. I can't find the link to the hobby shop. I did a search and read back to page 140 but no luck.

This is my 100th Post I am no longer a Hacker!!

David Root
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Old 07-06-2003, 06:53 AM   #3338
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Default Building and setup tips

Hello guys im in the process in buildong my yoke yrx 12 wce can some one give me some building tips and a good set-ups for higg bite tracks ?? Plz suggest what turn motor and gearing. Speaking about gearing is it good to run 48pitch on 1/12 cars ?? cause i usually see the 12th scales running 64pitch is there any reason for this ??

Hope you can help me out.
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Old 07-06-2003, 08:30 AM   #3339
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- Use 64 pitch, I can't even figure out why Associated and other companies would include a 48 pitch with their cars??

- .018 or .020 front springs, start with .018 if you need to reduce steering everywhere then goto .020's.

- .075 T-bar .... it seems to work best everywhere

- purple/grey for carpet, purple/pink for asphalt.... however purple/grey also works well on high bite asphalt...

- set rear pod droop to be flat with the chassis, if you need more off-power steering then allow for 1/2-1mm of droop.
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Old 07-06-2003, 08:31 AM   #3340
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Are you running stock, 19T spec, or full blown mod? what is the size of the track??
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Old 07-06-2003, 09:46 AM   #3341
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Default full blown

Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
Are you running stock, 19T spec, or full blown mod? what is the size of the track??
Hey............long time no cccc i would like to be able to keep up there all using in 8t-10t motors 4 cell. Got any suggestion ??
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Old 07-06-2003, 05:37 PM   #3342
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Hope you can help me out.
Quote:
Hello guys im in the process in buildong my yoke yrx 12 wce can some one give me some building tips and a good set-ups for higg bite tracks ?? Plz suggest what turn motor and gearing. Speaking about gearing is it good to run 48pitch on 1/12 cars ?? cause i usually see the 12th scales running 64pitch is there any reason for this ??
to help you out i posted a couple pages earlier my set up and gearing for my yokomo yr12. it finished sixth in a main at nationals in north carolina. on bite try it out see if it works on youre track
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Old 07-07-2003, 01:39 PM   #3343
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David R,

Thanks for your opinion on the spring to shock oil weight, next time I'm at the track I'll try it out and see what I like.

competition hobbies

Eric
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Old 07-07-2003, 11:49 PM   #3344
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Default IRS132 diff/axle on a RC12L?

I've got an old RC12L (no LW, L3, or anything else ) that I'm going to be running with Peter & the rest of the crew at Redmond Hobbies on asphalt. My current problem is figuring out how to install my IRS132 (large diff D-ring, fiberglass axle, clamping left side hub, 3-bolt setup, etc.) setup to the rear pod. I'm not sure what order to put the parts on, the spacers, and other parts than what it came with on. I know I need to pick up an un-flanged bearing to go in the center of the spur gear, and obviously the rings go on either side of the hub. I know that I need to put a flanged bearing in either side of the right side (diff side) hub. after that, I get confused...

The Associated RC12L instructions (circa late '80s) are no help. They had me putting thrust bearing assemblies between the pod and left hub as well as the pod and the diff assembly. I figured out that the RC10L SS "axle spacers" (or something along those lines) replaced them so I picked up a pair of them. I'm not sure if I still need to use them, just use one on the clamping hub side, or what. Also, there's that stepped "spacer" thing that came with the IRS parts. And then I suspect I need something on the outside of the right side hub before I put on the nut to adjust the diff with. Some sort of a cone washer setup? I did pick up an Associated #3435 "Belleville Washer" setup, but it looks like it's supposed to sandwich the wheel and everything over towards the diff, and I *think* that I'm supposed to be able to take the right side tire/wheel off without having to lose diff adjustment. Any suggestions? Maybe an exploded diagram/picture or two? Link to a PDF of assembly instructions for some other 1/12th scale that uses IRS parts on the rear?

Once I get the rear pod done then the other big question is if I should bolt it to a fiberglass or graphite chassis. I've got both in my pile of parts. I suspect graphite, but the fiberglass would flex more and that might be better for asphalt. Comments? I'll be running it with an "old style" front end (I've got a couple of them).

One last one for now... Suntan lotion vs. Paragon? That Paragon is nasty stuff from what I've read (and smelled). What's the story with Suntan lotion? Any partiular brand? Particular SPF? Alternately, I've got some Trinity Touring car tire cleaner and traction compound stuff, but it's for rubber tires. I'm guessing I would NOT want to use it on the foams? Any other less nasty foam tire stuff that might be better/easier to deal with than suntan lotion?

Thanks for any suggestions!
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Old 07-08-2003, 03:55 AM   #3345
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Charles,

Only a few comments. I know nothing about the IRS rear diff.

Suntan Lotion from what I have read does not work as well as tire sauce. I would get the stuff for foam. If they run the race right, they will have 8 minute heats and mains so go for the good stuff. Zip Grip, Paragon, CRC, or the orange stuff. They all work well, I am going to try the Coppertone spf 45 this weekend, but traction has been an issiue for me up unitl last week.

I only run 1/10 pan car against the TCs, I bring my 1/12 every week, but I am the only one. . On Raod 1/12 starts this winter.

Fike, Have Fun racing your 1/12

David Root
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