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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-25-2010, 09:15 AM   #33406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Hey if you can keep the old steed going with a few tweaks more power to you.
But seriously, if you're in the market for a NEW Car, why go retro?
Well, some folks aren't into buying a new car everytime one come out. It isn't about "going retro" more than keeping more folks racing. I have two T-bar 1/12th scales and could not race them due to the "LiPo only" rules. I could not justify buying another car due to being deep into other classes. So, if $65 dollars can put another competitor into the class instead of $220+, would you rather have more or less competitors to race against?
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:38 AM   #33407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLock View Post
Well, some folks aren't into buying a new car everytime one come out. It isn't about "going retro" more than keeping more folks racing. I have two T-bar 1/12th scales and could not race them due to the "LiPo only" rules. I could not justify buying another car due to being deep into other classes. So, if $65 dollars can put another competitor into the class instead of $220+, would you rather have more or less competitors to race against?
Those racers with T-bar cars need to think outside the box. Until Speedzone came out with their 1s Saddle Pack, several local racers have been using a stick LiPo mounted lengthwise down one side of the car with no ill effects. It isn't pretty, but it works quite well. This was with an AE 12L4 and Serpent S120 T-bar chassis.
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:58 AM   #33408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
Those racers with T-bar cars need to think outside the box. Until Speedzone came out with their 1s Saddle Pack, several local racers have been using a stick LiPo mounted lengthwise down one side of the car with no ill effects. It isn't pretty, but it works quite well. This was with an AE 12L4 and Serpent S120 T-bar chassis.
I did the same thing (eventually) with my 12L4. I have the battery on the right side of the car and all my other electronics on the left side. Had to add some weight to balance the car but it is working. Can't wait to get my hands on the 1-cell saddle pack to put things back right in my car.
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:12 AM   #33409
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For actual tuning, Richard Chang's is by far the best of these and is very useful...to a point. It's only a single page and contains very little detailed information. There are some things that are missing, for example, bump steer. What happens when you shim side links only on one end?

Richard also mentions under reactive caster, "...However, can cause more tire scrub in a turn and slow you down if not setup properly." Ok, how do you set it up properly? No explanation is provided.

Thanks for the reply. Still looking.
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Old 01-25-2010, 03:36 PM   #33410
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1s saddle pack Lipo by SpeedZone...works great. Only wish the jumper wire was shorter.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-cefx1.jpg   1/12 forum-cefx2.jpg  
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Old 01-25-2010, 03:51 PM   #33411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
1s saddle pack Lipo by SpeedZone...works great. Only wish the jumper wire was shorter.
Thanks for the pics. Looks good in the car. Will hopefully have one for my car shortly.
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:22 PM   #33412
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Guess I rattled a few T-bars of my 12th scale brethren

Just figured most everyone who happened to be looking into a NEW car would prefer the new link style cars.
What was I thinking

Of course there are other options if you're on a budget.

Carry on.
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:37 PM   #33413
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Just building up a 1/12, going to try it out.

I am going to run 48p on it, as I have all 48p pinions, and I am guessing you need to change gearing as the tires wear.

The car I have ordered is an X-ray XII link. What spurs fit this? Kimbro?

Also, running 10.5 on the Tekin. Any advice for a size spur to start with.

Cheers
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:38 PM   #33414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 View Post
Just building up a 1/12, going to try it out.

I am going to run 48p on it, as I have all 48p pinions, and I am guessing you need to change gearing as the tires wear.

The car I have ordered is an X-ray XII link. What spurs fit this? Kimbro?

Also, running 10.5 on the Tekin. Any advice for a size spur to start with.

Cheers
Ant,

Not too much wear at Windsor and there is a small window with gearing. So you probably will not need to change this on the night. I'm running 30/78 with 40 degrees timing with the Tekin/Duo combo.
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:38 PM   #33415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Guess I rattled a few T-bars of my 12th scale brethren

Just figured most everyone who happened to be looking into a NEW car would prefer the new link style cars.
What was I thinking

Of course there are other options if you're on a budget.

Carry on.
You were thinking that new means better. Usually that would be the case but not always in the 1/12th world. I've been running a link car this winter but with the layout my track has been running so far and the introduction of saddle lipos, I'm thinking of breaking out the good old 12L4 again. My link car is killer in the really tight and twisty stuff but my current track's sweepy layout is perfect for a bar car.
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:59 PM   #33416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
You were thinking that new means better. Usually that would be the case but not always in the 1/12th world. I've been running a link car this winter but with the layout my track has been running so far and the introduction of saddle lipos, I'm thinking of breaking out the good old 12L4 again. My link car is killer in the really tight and twisty stuff but my current track's sweepy layout is perfect for a bar car.
I'm with ya here. I've switched over to the BMI 12DBRR, a great car! I've driven Corally T-bars for 9 years until this season. No doubt, The T-Bar guys can be wicked fast, better be on our game with the 1s saddle LiPo. If anyone is looking for a budget 1/12 T-Bar, PM me, I'm shedding the Corally stuff on the F/S thread.
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Old 01-26-2010, 12:04 AM   #33417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen10 View Post
I would think 16 ga. would be fine to use.

On the side note. Its not the voltage you have to worry about, its the current that is the killer. I am sure if someone done a search on the amount of current the wire gauge can handle. It would answer all the guess work. I am a bit to lazy.
Thanks. I've got a TQ 16 ga. HD kit on the way.
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Old 01-26-2010, 02:31 AM   #33418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDX-Spike View Post
For actual tuning, Richard Chang's is by far the best of these and is very useful...to a point. It's only a single page and contains very little detailed information. There are some things that are missing, for example, bump steer. What happens when you shim side links only on one end?
You mean bump steer like in tc cars? It is same thing.

Quote:
Richard also mentions under reactive caster, "...However, can cause more tire scrub in a turn and slow you down if not setup properly." Ok, how do you set it up properly? No explanation is provided.

Thanks for the reply. Still looking.
Hm. I use 5deg set in my 12R5.1 and 5deg 10R5 and 5deg in last 12L4,
and it drive easier then 10. For me 5 is best option, but my friends (better
drivers) use 10, in X11 or S120 or CRC. I still don't know how to set up it
correct, I will ask my friend.



m.
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Old 01-26-2010, 10:26 PM   #33419
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two questions

What kind of glue do you guys use to repair your tires?

What kind of weight do you generally save by going to aluminum screws?
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:06 AM   #33420
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CA glue
A few grams
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