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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-22-2010, 08:20 PM   #33361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Well guys it seems the race I direct is finally coming to an end. Fortunately we have a permanent track that has opened up that over the last 2 years has been improved dramatically since I first looked at it. Running TC there has been fun but the pan car racers from my race want a new place to race at. The track is open to running pan cars but we're running into bad traction problems. TCs run pretty good there but pan cars we haven't been able to get enough traction for even pink rears. The track is an outdoor asphalt track so I am really hesitant to run really soft rear tires like yellows or whites because I think the tire wear is going to be huge. The place has a large problem with bugs, namely ants and roaches. So using a sugar water spray like I had been doing at my race isn't likely to be allowed. VHT is too expensive for us so I'm looking for other alternatives that might work. Any ideas?
For the cars, try running Corally Gold on the rear and Purple front tires. You'll be surprised by the grip. Just get the dust off the track as it will affect the tires. Don't try the Silver, as they are just to soft.

We actually used VHT and was cheaper than sugar water after 3 events. Once you get the track cleaned "Mist" the track with the VHT and then hit the in and out of the corners as second time. Next week, do the same but by the third week, you just need to do the corners. We did a 200' x 100' nitro track and was down to under 1 1/2 gallons. Also, there is an other mfg making similar stuff but 1/3 less than VHT. I'll see if I can get more info. We do however have a prominent drag strip here, so access is just driving across town.
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:29 PM   #33362
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VHT is insanely expensive in Hawaii due to the shipping. Sugar water was costing me only about $3 a race day for 2 gallons of punch syrup. Might try the Corally tires, thanks for the suggestion on that. But I'd like to stay with tires that are easy for everyone to get.
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:30 PM   #33363
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Originally Posted by Mugen10 View Post
I remember years ago we had a parking lot track. We would use very cheap 2L soda and spray on the track. Also I think sugar water could work. Cheap way to do it. One key thing is to air blow all the dust off the track before spraying.
Just my .02 cents
Can't use sugar water due to the bugs
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:43 PM   #33364
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Found the other product: By VP racing fuels.. I believe you have at least one drag stip in the islands, which would help on the cost.
Lane Choice 6 Track Adhesive

Click to enlarge VP's premier traction compound! While competitors are generally getting by with 20-year
old technology, Lane Choice 6 is the product of intense and detailed R&D conducted
over the last six years. In heads up testing against every other competitive product,
Lane Choice 6 won every time!

More consistency - Because of its higher viscosity and overall toughness, Lane
Choice 6 performs much more consistently across a wider range of temperatures-from
40 to 120 degrees. Differences in a car's performance between daytime and night are
substantially reduced, and Lane Choice 6 is unaffected by humidity.

Better out of groove performance - Cars can get out of the groove and still get down
the track without having to shut down.

Better starting line toughness - Tracks get fewer bald spots and they're less severe.
LC6 doesn't ball up or roll over onto itself. As a result, cars routinely launch harder and
tracks become faster.

Easier to apply - Lane Choice 6 is packaged ready-to-spray. It requires no mixing, no
mess and there's no need to remember mix ratios. It requires use of teflon seals in spray
equipment and may be diluted with methanol.

More cost-effective - Lane Choice 6 actually achieves better results while requiring
application of less compound and requires no purchase of methanol for mixing.
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:45 PM   #33365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
VHT is insanely expensive in Hawaii due to the shipping. Sugar water was costing me only about $3 a race day for 2 gallons of punch syrup. Might try the Corally tires, thanks for the suggestion on that. But I'd like to stay with tires that are easy for everyone to get.
Corally has the tires on the site, and if needed you can purchase donuts from them as well, to mount your own.
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Last edited by Grenade10; 01-23-2010 at 08:43 AM.
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:40 PM   #33366
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Found the other product: By VP racing fuels.. I believe you have at least one drag stip in the islands, which would help on the cost.
Not anymore...our full sized track shut down I'll look into how much that additive is though.
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Old 01-22-2010, 10:51 PM   #33367
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+1 for Lane Choice. Excellent grip and less expensive than VHT.
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:12 AM   #33368
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I was wondering if anyone has a Gen X with a Tekin Redline motor installed?

Any problems mounting it in there? I found that the sensor wire binds up against the motor mount and cause problems.

Was the tekin motor made longer then the rest of the motors?

thanks

s
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:48 PM   #33369
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Can't use sugar water due to the bugs
http://molzermoweryracing.com/acatal..._Products.html
Look into this, they are only mixing it 2 quarts to 15 gallons of water. So the 5:1 ratio is not accurate, that would be real expensive. Pretty sure this was used at 301 Raceway in MD.
Tim
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Old 01-23-2010, 07:38 PM   #33370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Satish View Post
I was wondering if anyone has a Gen X with a Tekin Redline motor installed?

Any problems mounting it in there? I found that the sensor wire binds up against the motor mount and cause problems.

Was the tekin motor made longer then the rest of the motors?

thanks

s
Do you have the brushless pod or the old original GenX pod? Tekin motors fit in the brushless pod perfectly.
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Old 01-23-2010, 08:34 PM   #33371
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yup the brushless pod.

I had a tbang, and novak in there with no problems, but this tekin redline just doesn't wanna fit. Its more that the sensor wire doesn't sit properly. The motor sits in the pod nicely, just the sensor wire binds up against the bulk head.

s
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Old 01-23-2010, 08:57 PM   #33372
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Default Futaba 9650 vs. Airtronics 94761 ??

New to 12th scale .. have used Futaba's comparable in specs to 9650 before, but no experience or knowledge of the Airtronics ... would like to hear opinions on how they compare, or pros and cons .. thank you
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:02 PM   #33373
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Originally Posted by Satish View Post
yup the brushless pod.

I had a tbang, and novak in there with no problems, but this tekin redline just doesn't wanna fit. Its more that the sensor wire doesn't sit properly. The motor sits in the pod nicely, just the sensor wire binds up against the bulk head.

s
Strange, I have room to spare on mine. You could get the the left side pod plate for the XL.
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Last edited by wingracer; 01-24-2010 at 09:02 AM.
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:04 PM   #33374
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Originally Posted by tomkatn View Post
New to 12th scale .. have used Futaba's comparable in specs to 9650 before, but no experience or knowledge of the Airtronics ... would like to hear opinions on how they compare, or pros and cons .. thank you
Not sure. I haven't tried their little digitals but the old analog one that many people used to use was weak and didn't last long. IMO, the Futaba 9650 and the little JR are the best out there.
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:14 PM   #33375
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Originally Posted by got2bqik View Post
http://molzermoweryracing.com/acatal..._Products.html
Look into this, they are only mixing it 2 quarts to 15 gallons of water. So the 5:1 ratio is not accurate, that would be real expensive. Pretty sure this was used at 301 Raceway in MD.
Tim
$20 a quart is pretty expensive but if it doesn't come off with rain as they say and it mixes 2:15 it might be worth it.
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