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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-21-2010, 11:03 PM   #33346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Have you run any new fronts yet? How is the wheel bearing problem?

Our LHS got an order of Jaco XXPink fronts and Orange rears in this afternoon after +/- 2 months of backorder/unavailable. They were hand delivered straight from RCAmerica. First thing I did was take a set of fronts out of the box and grab a bearing out of the case. For at least the box that I checked the bearings still fit WAY loose; especially the outer hole still. I estimated about 1 mm play in the front wheel bearing.


In fact we were joking it would almost be better to leave the wheel solid in the center with a center mark and let the end user drill the hole out. I could make a pretty decent hole with a bench press and the right sized bit, hahaha
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Old 01-22-2010, 05:45 AM   #33347
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I'm personally not buying another set of JACO / Parma / whomever uses those wheels again until it's confirmed fixed for months. Nor can I recommend the tires to any of the locals whom tend to buy what I recommend. One bad batch I could almost excuse, but 6+ months of issues no way. They should had done the right thing, ate the cost of retooling by now, and recycled the bad wheels. They should also give the hobby shops the opportunity to send the bad product back to the manufacture for full replacement.
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:46 AM   #33348
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What's a good starting point for rollout on a 5.5t on 1s?
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Old 01-22-2010, 10:20 AM   #33349
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Thanks to research from andrewdoherty, there is a company that now produces a 1-cell LiPo saddlepack for the T-bar car. Now, instead of having to buy a new car to accommodate the single 1-cell, you can continue to run the old school car instead.
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Old 01-22-2010, 10:37 AM   #33350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasb View Post
Hey guys need your opinion

running a 17.5 with a sxx , rollout 104, 75 spur,56 pinion, setting on esc profile 10, 3 deg on motor! need more out of it!
matybe down 2 on spur or advance timing on mtr to 4 deg?
Thanks TomasB
Nobody have opinions? or ideas on the matter!
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:53 AM   #33351
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in regards to front tire bearing issue. I have just run a couple layers of CA glue in the inner ring and let it dry completely then just using a 1/4" dowel and some sand paper made it smooth then just check the fit with the bearing and presto problem fixed.

Now I also have a set of CRC pro cuts and they fit perfect
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:57 AM   #33352
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A much simpler "fix" is to use some 3M blue painters tape, place it over the hole, cut an "X" with an Xacto, pop the bearing in, and then trim the tape around the bearing. Takes about 15 seconds per wheel.
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:58 AM   #33353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
A much simpler "fix" is to use some 3M blue painters tape, place it over the hole, cut an "X" with an Xacto, pop the bearing in, and then trim the tape around the bearing. Takes about 15 seconds per wheel.
Yep, I'm going to try that one out tomorrow.
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:33 PM   #33354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLock View Post
Thanks to research from andrewdoherty, there is a company that now produces a 1-cell LiPo saddlepack for the T-bar car. Now, instead of having to buy a new car to accommodate the single 1-cell, you can continue to run the old school car instead.
I wish I could take credit for that. Thanks to SpeedZone USA for making them available!

For the bearings I use my soldering iron to melt a ridge in-line with the spokes in the wheel. Once it cools, the bearing presses in nicely. It can become loose again after several runs however.
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:39 PM   #33355
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I wish I could take credit for that. Thanks to SpeedZone USA for making them available!

For the bearings I use my soldering iron to melt a ridge in-line with the spokes in the wheel. Once it cools, the bearing presses in nicely. It can become loose again after several runs however.
Take some credit because you found the site while looking for other batteries for 1/12th scale. I never heard of SpeedZone USA and probably would not have ever come across or viewed the site. What is the use of being available if no one knows that the product exists?
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Old 01-22-2010, 04:09 PM   #33356
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Lightbulb KRP has new 64 Pitch Spur Gears

Quote:
Originally Posted by ovalnator View Post
This is a continuation of the thread from the other site. Post anything about 1/12 here, setups, whatever.

Kimbrough Racing Products has added to their line of 12 ball, 64 pitch spur gears with, 76 - 78 - 80 - 82 - 84 - and 86 tooth gears. If your running a brushless motor, these will give you more ratio choices for gearing.
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Old 01-22-2010, 06:24 PM   #33357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
I'm personally not buying another set of JACO / Parma / whomever uses those wheels again until it's confirmed fixed for months. Nor can I recommend the tires to any of the locals whom tend to buy what I recommend. One bad batch I could almost excuse, but 6+ months of issues no way. They should had done the right thing, ate the cost of retooling by now, and recycled the bad wheels. They should also give the hobby shops the opportunity to send the bad product back to the manufacture for full replacement.
I see what you are talking about with the Jaco and Parma tires. The slop in the front tires are very bad. I did try the BSR front tires and cracked them the first run. I will shrug it off as a freak of nature this time. For now I have to run what I can get my hands on but as soon as CRC tires I need are in stock. It will be all CRC!
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Old 01-22-2010, 06:28 PM   #33358
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Originally Posted by JLock View Post
Take some credit because you found the site while looking for other batteries for 1/12th scale. I never heard of SpeedZone USA and probably would not have ever come across or viewed the site. What is the use of being available if no one knows that the product exists?
There has been like 3 threads of his right here, one specifically on this battery.

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Old 01-22-2010, 08:03 PM   #33359
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Default Alternative traction additives for tracks

Well guys it seems the race I direct is finally coming to an end. Fortunately we have a permanent track that has opened up that over the last 2 years has been improved dramatically since I first looked at it. Running TC there has been fun but the pan car racers from my race want a new place to race at. The track is open to running pan cars but we're running into bad traction problems. TCs run pretty good there but pan cars we haven't been able to get enough traction for even pink rears. The track is an outdoor asphalt track so I am really hesitant to run really soft rear tires like yellows or whites because I think the tire wear is going to be huge. The place has a large problem with bugs, namely ants and roaches. So using a sugar water spray like I had been doing at my race isn't likely to be allowed. VHT is too expensive for us so I'm looking for other alternatives that might work. Any ideas?
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:12 PM   #33360
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I remember years ago we had a parking lot track. We would use very cheap 2L soda and spray on the track. Also I think sugar water could work. Cheap way to do it. One key thing is to air blow all the dust off the track before spraying.
Just my .02 cents
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