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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-19-2010, 07:54 PM   #33316
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Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
Now see, you guys are gonna get me in trouble. Instead of supporting McMaster Carr, who has done nothing for R/C, why not support a small business that supports us? It's not like you are going to need 100 of those any way.
you are right, but I hate stainless screws. they are just soft and well, the clamping hub, most torque down because they do not want to loose a wheel in a race. so even if you are careful, you strip the head. and the second is if you have 100, i just throw them away if it even looks to be stripping the head.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:04 PM   #33317
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
Most of the kits on the market are pretty damn good. I would advise going to your local track, see what's popular/fast there, and then make your decision. That being said, you can't go wrong with a Gen. XL.
thx....class is just starting and i think there are only 2 guys that have them...and they are an older ae car and older crc...like 3.1 i think.

thx for the info.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:08 PM   #33318
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Well, if they are having issues with easily stripping heads in the stainless IRS ones, they can also try Tony's Screws:

http://www.tonysscrews.com/product.s...&categoryId=21
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:34 PM   #33319
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I buy rc4less tires-black(50)frnts;black(45)rears.Great traction,great wear,good rims(even if they are orange).Oh and good prices too.Havn't had a prob with them and they DON'T CHUNK or peel,and wear like iron.I used to go thru jaco yellows in 3 runs the front jaco blacks were 6 run tires.I like jaco's but ----
I ran these tires this weekend.
Excellent.
I was pleased with my results and really pleased with how well the tires held up. NO chunking, peeling... and the tires got beat up. I used paragon on them and thought they were very acceptable on carpet.
For my level of racing and experience - these are the ticket.
Thanks!
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:37 PM   #33320
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Originally Posted by falcon_az View Post
I ran these tires this weekend.
Excellent.
I was pleased with my results and really pleased with how well the tires held up. NO chunking, peeling... and the tires got beat up. I used paragon on them and thought they were very acceptable on carpet.
For my level of racing and experience - these are the ticket.
Thanks!
Did you use the same Black/Black compounds? What kind of traction is the track you race at?
I need to get some tires for a new carpet track opening soon, so I am assuming it will be low traction for a few months.
Thanks.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:48 PM   #33321
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Did you use the same Black/Black compounds? What kind of traction is the track you race at?
I need to get some tires for a new carpet track opening soon, so I am assuming it will be low traction for a few months.
Thanks.
I used the same compounds.

The track I race it has excellent traction. This weekend... the track was treated by spraying a compound on it... like paragon. It took longer for the traction to come in but everyone was sliding around, tire compound didn't seem to matter, everyone had problems.
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:01 PM   #33322
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you are right, but I hate stainless screws. they are just soft and well, the clamping hub, most torque down because they do not want to loose a wheel in a race. so even if you are careful, you strip the head. and the second is if you have 100, i just throw them away if it even looks to be stripping the head.
I find I have more problems with the hubs cracking than I do with the screws stripping out. So far I've cracked 2 hubs but stripped 1 screw.
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:15 PM   #33323
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in the 2+ years running the irs axle, I have gone through countless number of screws, 1 axle, and 0 clamping hubs. how wierd. i can tell you that I have had more problems since the prizm wheels. because of the offset. the screw is actually inset in the wheel now. i am hoping the no stainless screws will fit better with the wrench and hopefully strip the head less.

on a side note, i search this thread and OD said the screw was a 2.5. he was wrong. we need to document this day. lol

just poking at you OD
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:38 PM   #33324
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I've been running the IRS hub for longer than I can remember and have only gone through one screw. The problem is that any straight tipped wrench will eventually strip it if you are trying to tighten it with the wheel on. The Jaco and Parma rims are offset enough to require a ball end wrench to avoid issues. I've just gotten in to the habit of taking the tire off first before removing the hub.
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:43 PM   #33325
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Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
I've just gotten in to the habit of taking the tire off first before removing the hub.
too much work. I am too lazy for that. lol
i do have a 2mm ball. I guess i can try that. but stainless is really just not for me. i really try and replace all my stainless
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Last edited by theisgroup; 01-19-2010 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:51 PM   #33326
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too much work. I am too lazy or that. lol
i do have a 2mm ball. I guess i can try that. but stainless is really just not for me. i really try and replace all my stainless
When I ran IRS hubs I stripped more screws than I can remember...seems to me that even the 2mm ball end would strip out. Now I just take off the wheel and use a straight allen wrench, screw heads now last a lot longer

Stop being lazy and start taking off the wheel first, never mind...you can afford to buy new screws
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Old 01-19-2010, 10:00 PM   #33327
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When I ran IRS hubs I stripped more screws than I can remember...seems to me that even the 2mm ball end would strip out. Now I just take off the wheel and use a straight allen wrench, screw heads now last a lot longer

Stop being lazy and start taking off the wheel first, never mind...you can afford to buy new screws
at $13 for 100 screws. I can afford to replace them every month for quite a while. maybe longer then rc. and P2 you know me. there is no one lazier them me. it is all about convenience. I don't change my tires until I run out. this weekend I ran a 40mm rear and 38mm front. there were spots that you could see the wheel. I finally changed them out for next weekend. but hey, I turn the fastest lap on the track 17.5 or 13.5 so maybe that is the fast setup. lol
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:14 AM   #33328
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Default RC4Less tires & wheels

I have been running RC4Less Tan rears and they perform quite well at our local track so I ordered 3 sets of their Black fronts but found that my CRC 3/16 x 5/16 bearings won't fit in the wheel! My bearings mic at .3115 and the wheels mic at only .304 or so. My question is has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do?
Thanks, georgec
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:01 AM   #33329
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Originally Posted by P2 View Post
When I ran IRS hubs I stripped more screws than I can remember...seems to me that even the 2mm ball end would strip out. Now I just take off the wheel and use a straight allen wrench, screw heads now last a lot longer

Stop being lazy and start taking off the wheel first, never mind...you can afford to buy new screws
The reason that the 2mm ball end would strip the screw is that it is actually a 5/64 socket. Using the proper size wrench helps a lot.
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:10 AM   #33330
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The reason that the 2mm ball end would strip the screw is that it is actually a 5/64 socket. Using the proper size wrench helps a lot.
i don't find that to be true. I do see that it is marked 5/64, but due to the stainless process, i think a 2mm wrench fits better the a 5/64. the 2mm is .006" larger the a 5/64, so it seams to fit better
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