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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-04-2003, 10:15 AM   #3316
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cracker78
I dont really like dealing with rumors, but I did spot a statement on Trinity Tech Talk hinting at a 12L4 with damper tubes from AE this fall... anyone have any inside info on this or care to speculate?
SoCal Raceway is just down the street from Associated and my home track. I am the only regular there that practices with a 1/12 scale car weekly. I usually see any prototypes that are on the drawing board a year or more before the rumors, wether Losi or Associated. There is no 1/12 scale racing at this track, which would make it a perfect place to test such a car. I know many of the Associated guys and they would be the first to come spank my 1/12 scale, sedan-killing backside with a new car. As of last night, I have seen no such car... If there testing it, it isn't here.
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Old 07-04-2003, 10:55 AM   #3317
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Muffin: You've got PM....
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Old 07-04-2003, 11:03 AM   #3318
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Lonergan ran the Trinity i think. The associated drivers tested different chassis (thickness etc) and stuff at the carpet races last year. It may or may not have been development. I personally heard they were working on a new car, but who knows. Though i do think they would be focused on carpet more than asphalt.
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Old 07-04-2003, 12:33 PM   #3319
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Quote:
Originally posted by King Kong
do you think I'd be able to convert a l3 because I'm in the middle of buying one, and now I'm not sure if I should. Thanks for the advice.
Team CRC does make a conversion kit for the 12L3 that converts it over to damper tubes. It essentially makes it a 6 Pack. So if you want that style of chassis but with damper tubes and you haven't ordered your car yet I would just suggest the 6 pack. If you want the damper tubes and you have already ordered your 12L3 than just order the conversion kit from CRC's web site (www.teamcrc.com) . Hope this helps!

I wonder why someone would think 1/12 racing is super expensive. Any type of R/C racing is expensive, but I think that 1/12 is the least expensive compared to things like 1/10 touring and stuff like that. The cars are pretty inexpensive (usually around $150), battaries are much cheeper if you run 4 cell (you can get some really good 4 cell packs for $40) , steering servos are around the same price as for a touring car, bodies are pretty cheep if you ask me ($13 compared to $22?), there's also way less stuff on a 12th scale, when you need to refill your shocks you only have one shock to fill so you save money on shock oil, also a full center spring set for a 1/12 car costs 10 bucks, for my tc3 it's somthing like $30. Tires are the main thing that are expensive on a 12th scale car. I'm not trying to start an argument but I'm really just stating my opinion that I think 12th scale racing is not too expensive compared to other types of racing. Just my .02
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Old 07-04-2003, 01:09 PM   #3320
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Default yolo setup nationals north carolina

i used front strut braced to stiffen fron end with . 20 springs
caster spacer one front and one back `1 mm spacer under front dynamic suspension 1.75inch tire trc purple. silver center spring stock oil factory tplate and modified dampner post to use associted tplate brace. (stiffen car) used 3 screw for tplate #3 axle hight 1.90 inch pink trc tire used trinity red dot traction formula did try sun tan spf 45 did not notice dff. 98 spur gear and 32 pinion yokomo said thier comming out with thicker ssg chassis they due offer a 2.6 ? mm none ssg now
if you need more info email me.
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Last edited by speedxl; 07-04-2003 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 07-04-2003, 07:59 PM   #3321
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Racerdx6: Isn't it ironic that the cost of these cars is so cheap, yet they go sooooo fast! I have an 8x1 in mine and it rocks.....I haven't turned the motor since the first of the year. Try going this fast with a sedan. Dial 1-800-big-$.
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Old 07-04-2003, 08:15 PM   #3322
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robk - Lonnergan ran a modified 12L last season. It used a thick chassis plate (they made a small run of these), dampening tubes and the "old skool" front suspension. He used the upper pod plate from the oval car to make this conversion. Blackstock ran the disc dampening system, but a 12LC chassis. Henderson ran the same as Lonnergan. I don't see a new 12th scale from Associated in the near future. [now maybe having said that, they will do it]

The best way to make a conversion to dampening system by tubes and rods is to use either the CRC conversion or the IRS conversion. The IRS conversion also gives you a thick chassis that is well suited for carpet. It is a little stiff for pavement. Word has it that Paved Onroad Nats 1/12 Stock Champion Mike Dunnigan wanted to cut some bracing out of the IRS chassis to get more flex for the conditions. I don't know if he actually did it, but that should be in your consideration for selecting a car to run. I wish Stormperson would have run better at the Nats so we could brag about his Speedmerchant REV3. One chassis seems to fit both carpet and pavement.
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Old 07-04-2003, 08:17 PM   #3323
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Doug, I think the normal Yokomo chassi sand the shooters are very similar if not the same... Yo can get the yokomo chassis in the states.
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Old 07-04-2003, 09:19 PM   #3324
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Mo did pretty well with his Speedmerchant........
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Old 07-05-2003, 05:52 AM   #3325
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I didnt see u out there, lol (btw, it wasnt even funny how much faster regular stock was than masters, i think the TQ in 12th stock was 20 laps and the TQ in masters 12th was 18 laps, and a good stock 12th lap time was 24 seconds, so it would have been an easy 1st place trophy for you to have taken home).

As far as the Rev. 3 went, the car was awsome (for some reason it was unable to go straight down the straightaway however alot of other 12th scale drivers had the same problems. it wasnt because it was a spedmerchant, i saw t-bar cars having the same problems), i could easily hang with 2001 12th stock asphalt champ Rob Michael in his Corrally in the infield, espically the tigher sections.

Mo did do very well, he had some problems with traffic and other drivers he was racing with is what i heard (since i couldnt have seen it considering i was all of his 12th scale races).

BTW, DavidL, any chance u are coming to BBT this season? Steve enlarged the track so that the road course extents all the way out to the right wall (where the oval track is) so now there is a giant oval and he will put a road course in the middle of it. apperently the oval guys were complaining that steve's old oval was too hard.
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Old 07-05-2003, 06:47 AM   #3326
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
(blackstock and lonagran took down mod and stock 12th scale at the carpet nats a few months ago).
Lonergan didn't win Stock, he won Masters. Alex Lopez won Stock with a Rev.3. Speedmerchant, 17 time National Champions.
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Old 07-05-2003, 07:35 AM   #3327
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Thanks for all the input guys... I guess that will teach me to stop taking TTT too seriously On the other hand, I really like the irs conversion kit. Except it is just an upgrade kit and not a whole car (and a kinda expensive one at that). Maybe I will just by the chassis because its thicker and all I really do is carpet racing. Does anyone know how thick it is so I can compare to my current 12l3?
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Old 07-05-2003, 07:53 AM   #3328
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Cracker: I think you can get the Old Skool front-end from Speedmerchant for around $20, so if you were gonna build a Rugrat, you could order a set of IRS lowered Pod Plates when you order the car, and get the front-end from Speedmerchant and that'd put you at about $160. Throw your current T-bar set up and diff in it and you'd have a pretty much top of the line car.

Of course you could just buy a Rev.3 for $160 too.
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Old 07-05-2003, 12:33 PM   #3329
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davidl- i stand corrected. I knew Chuck had a Trinity for a while (he visited Leiure Hours in IL a few times year before last). i knew Walt was doing his own thing as far as chassis. I was told by a third party that it was part of ongoing development. Who knows though, as a lot of rumors go around like that.

Are you running the IRS car? If so have you tried it in mod?
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Old 07-05-2003, 12:33 PM   #3330
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And by the way has anyone gotten a hold of the Speedmerchant V3 front end (or whatever they call it)?
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