R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 09-20-2017, 08:54 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: DesertRat
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time. On black carpet the car may be numb to sauce changes, either a long or short sauce can produce very similar handling.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front. Alternatively you can sauce the front tires harder and tune the car for less front end bite.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz. Possibly a longer sauce will prevent fuzzing.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Rear - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Front - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
DISCONTINUED 1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!


If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!

Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:
Pan Car Front Suspension Tuning:
DISCLAIMER : The following tuning advice was written based on the tuning experience of the author and may not hold true for all cars, drivers, or surfaces. In the end the best tuning advice is to experiment and make changes one at a time so you can track your changes and find the car balance that works best for your driving style. One real world test is worth a million ‘expert’ opinions.

Front End Type:

All popular modern pan car front suspensions are very similar, with a few exceptions such as Speedmerchant New School but most of the info in this wiki applies to them as well. For the most part, they consist of a rigid bottom arm, an upper A-arm, and a kingpin with a spring. There are different flavors of this general design, such as the CRC Dynamic Strut that uses a threaded kingpin and upper pivot ball instead of the Associated style that uses a kingpin that goes through the entire steering knuckle assembly, but their operation is the same with the rigid lower arm and the upper arm controlling the arc of movement as the suspension is compressed.

Assembly:

More so than in almost any other part of the car, the front suspension of your 1/12 car must move absolutely free. Reamers and hobby knives are important here, as any binding will cause the car to corner unpredictably. A little play in the suspension is a good thing, and racers will often find that ‘worn in’ suspension pieces function a little better than new.

Springs:

Besides tires, spring rate is the most important part of deciding how your car will handle through corners, but are somewhat complicated. As a general rule of thumb, a very hard front spring will have somewhat less steering grip than a softer spring with the same suspension setup and tires, but not as much as in other classes such as touring or offroad. On carpet, springs of different tension can be used to tune how your car will maintain or lose energy through corners with the following general rule of thumb:

Hard Spring (0.55mm or harder): Less overall steering, quick reaction to driver input, less on power steering, harder turn-in with potentially lazy mid-corner and exit.

Soft Spring (.45mm): More overall steering especially at low speed, slightly slower reaction to driver input, more on-power steering, less aggressive turn-in but can ‘hook’ and give better mid-corner and exit.

It is worth noting that front springs from different suppliers are often very different, in both height, wire thickness, and coils for a given spring height meaning that a “medium” spring from one manufacturer may be the “hard” spring for another. To make accurate changes you may want to use one spring maker and stick with their line.

Another aspect to pan car springs is that they can get “blown out” and collapse, no longer as stiff or as tall as they were. These should be replaced with fresh springs to ensure consistent handling.

Dampening:

This is generally a minor adjustment, but adding dampening tube fluid to the front kingpins of a 1/12 car can give it a little more initial steering. Often unusual compounds see use here, such as Losi Smart Diff Grease or Associated Green Slime being a popular front kingpin lube.

Caster and Reactive Caster:

Caster is the angle of the kingpin, almost always angling back to the rear of the car, with a typical range from 0-10 degrees. Increasing your caster will typically result in less turn-in but a little more control, more steering exiting the corner, and somewhat increased straight-line stability with less tendency to wander because a wheel running caster will tend to straighten itself. Less caster will usually give you more off-power steering, but often with correspondingly less on-power when accelerating out of the corner.

Running reactive caster attempts to use both of these aspects to increase overall steering: when the car loads up on the outside front tire, the caster angle decreases, increasing the front end ‘hook’ as you enter the corner and then giving you the high caster on-power steering as you exit and weight is transferred off the front end. More reactive caster means more overall steering, but can mean you may have to adjust your driving style to drive more ‘ahead of the car’, needing to predict where the front end will grip.

As grip increases, less reactive caster is the normal tuning change made to keep the front end of the car from gripping too hard and oversteering and prevent traction roll. Static caster adjustments are still used to change the cars on power / off power steering balance.

Reactive Camber and Front Roll Center:

Reactive camber or camber gain is how much camber is added the front wheels as the suspension compresses. This can be increased or decreased by changing the angle and length of the top arm. Short, angled arm = more. Long, flat arm = less. More reactive camber will typically cause the car to “roll up” on the outer front wheel, transferring more weight in a turn and give more steering up to the point at which the tire is overloaded. This is generally more front grip and weight transfer than wanted on carpet, and as a result most cars run a flatter longer front arm.

Roll Center is the point on which the car will twist laterally or ‘roll’ during cornering. This can be raised or lowered by changing the angle and length of the top arm, with a short angled arm raising is slightly and a long flat arm lowering it. From what I have calculated most modern 1/12 cars meant for carpet have a roll center somewhere around the height of the chassis plate or just below it, but due to the lower arms being rigid and flat the roll center cannot be under the bottom of the tires like it often is on a touring car.
These two are inexorably linked in pan cars. Top arm length can be changed by the top arm mount in or out using shims or a CRC Long Arm kit, but is generally a minor tuning choice. Tuning of roll center with shims is usually a minor tuning choice in a pan car with a rigid bottom arm due to how the car cannot gain extra mechanical advantage on the lower arm as you can in a touring car, while reactive camber can be a significant driver of the car’s performance. In a modern car running on carpet the kit setup is usually perfectly fine.

Front End Alignment:

Static camber is the angle of your front wheels at rest, typically somewhere from 0 to 1.5 degrees on a pan car depending on surface, tire choice, and other factors, but a good starting point is usually somewhere around 0.5 degrees. More camber will typically give more steering, but many racers use static camber to ensure that their tires wear flat even if that means not having exactly equal camber on both sides of the car. This is adjusted by threading in and out the upper turnbuckle or pivot ball.

It is also worth noting that when running on high grip the flex and deformation of your chassis, suspension parts, and front wheels can become significant and cause uneven front tire wear. Some troubleshooting of the right combination of static camber, camber gain, caster, and tire/rim choice may be necessary to ensure even front tire wear.

Toe-In:

The front toe is one of the more easily adjusted aspects of the car and can have a significant effect on the attitude of the car due to it being a quick way to moderately adjust Ackerman without making significant other changes. With nothing else being adjusted, going from zero toe to toe-in will give a car a harder turn-in and will tend to scrub speed with the front end as opposed to using drag brake. This can be necessary when racing in Super Stock or higher power classes and will allow you to drive more aggressively, and can help the car track straighter under power. Toe-out will tend to make the car coast more through corners due to reducing the steering angle of the outer front tire. If a car has too much off-power steering but is otherwise stable, adding toe-out can calm the car but may the car to wander on the straights especially if the front end setup is very soft.

Ackerman:

Ackerman is the difference in steering angle between the two front tires during a turn. It is the result of how during a turn the inside of the car experiences a tighter circle and needs correspondingly more steering angle, but is also an important tuning tool. More Ackerman means having more inside wheel steering angle relative to the outer wheel, less means that the difference in steering angle is smaller.

To add or remove Ackerman, using a servo horn that spaces the links further apart (such as a Kimbrough Small Servo Saver, the outer holes on a Tamiya or Xray servo saver) will have more Ackerman than a servo that puts the links close together (Kimbrough Medium inner holes, Tamiya or Xray inner holes.) The rule of thumb is that a servo that puts the ball studs close together but spaced away from the servo horn will have less Ackerman than one that spaces them far apart and close to the servo horn. Ackerman changes will have the same effect as changing toe with more Ackerman being effectively toeing the wheels out and less toeing them in, but will not affect the straight-line attitude of the car.

Turning Circle / Steering Angle:

In offroad or even touring car you can set up the car to use the full angle of the steering 100% of the time. You will almost certainly not be able to do this in 1/12 scale. It goes without saying that as you turn up your steering angle you will gain steering often to the point of the car being undriveable. The quickest way to set the steering correctly is to set the sub-trim in your radio such that the car tracks straight and the servo horn is straight up and down, then set the endpoints equally such that they don't quite hit the steering bump-stops, then turn down the dual-rate or total throw from there. A typical starting point is somewhere between 45 and 60% of the total steering throw, or a 4-5' turning circle.
SOMEONE ELSE DO THE REAR TUNING SECTION! AND A TROUBLESHOOTING TREE! FEEL FREE TO MAKE YOUR OWN CHANGES!

Print Wikipost

Like Tree62Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-04-2003, 09:15 AM   #3316
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 775
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Cracker78
I dont really like dealing with rumors, but I did spot a statement on Trinity Tech Talk hinting at a 12L4 with damper tubes from AE this fall... anyone have any inside info on this or care to speculate?
SoCal Raceway is just down the street from Associated and my home track. I am the only regular there that practices with a 1/12 scale car weekly. I usually see any prototypes that are on the drawing board a year or more before the rumors, wether Losi or Associated. There is no 1/12 scale racing at this track, which would make it a perfect place to test such a car. I know many of the Associated guys and they would be the first to come spank my 1/12 scale, sedan-killing backside with a new car. As of last night, I have seen no such car... If there testing it, it isn't here.
Graphitedust is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2003, 09:55 AM   #3317
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 775
Default

Muffin: You've got PM....
Graphitedust is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2003, 10:03 AM   #3318
Tech Champion
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 7,556
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Lonergan ran the Trinity i think. The associated drivers tested different chassis (thickness etc) and stuff at the carpet races last year. It may or may not have been development. I personally heard they were working on a new car, but who knows. Though i do think they would be focused on carpet more than asphalt.
__________________
A mutually re-enforcing cascade of failure

"Failior [sic] crowns enterprise." Robert Goddard

I-Lap Scoring Systems http://www.rclapcounter.com/
robk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2003, 11:33 AM   #3319
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: seattle, WA
Posts: 864
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by King Kong
do you think I'd be able to convert a l3 because I'm in the middle of buying one, and now I'm not sure if I should. Thanks for the advice.
Team CRC does make a conversion kit for the 12L3 that converts it over to damper tubes. It essentially makes it a 6 Pack. So if you want that style of chassis but with damper tubes and you haven't ordered your car yet I would just suggest the 6 pack. If you want the damper tubes and you have already ordered your 12L3 than just order the conversion kit from CRC's web site (www.teamcrc.com) . Hope this helps!

I wonder why someone would think 1/12 racing is super expensive. Any type of R/C racing is expensive, but I think that 1/12 is the least expensive compared to things like 1/10 touring and stuff like that. The cars are pretty inexpensive (usually around $150), battaries are much cheeper if you run 4 cell (you can get some really good 4 cell packs for $40) , steering servos are around the same price as for a touring car, bodies are pretty cheep if you ask me ($13 compared to $22?), there's also way less stuff on a 12th scale, when you need to refill your shocks you only have one shock to fill so you save money on shock oil, also a full center spring set for a 1/12 car costs 10 bucks, for my tc3 it's somthing like $30. Tires are the main thing that are expensive on a 12th scale car. I'm not trying to start an argument but I'm really just stating my opinion that I think 12th scale racing is not too expensive compared to other types of racing. Just my .02
racerdx6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2003, 12:09 PM   #3320
Tech Elite
 
speedxl's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Portland Oregon.
Posts: 3,876
Default yolo setup nationals north carolina

i used front strut braced to stiffen fron end with . 20 springs
caster spacer one front and one back `1 mm spacer under front dynamic suspension 1.75inch tire trc purple. silver center spring stock oil factory tplate and modified dampner post to use associted tplate brace. (stiffen car) used 3 screw for tplate #3 axle hight 1.90 inch pink trc tire used trinity red dot traction formula did try sun tan spf 45 did not notice dff. 98 spur gear and 32 pinion yokomo said thier comming out with thicker ssg chassis they due offer a 2.6 ? mm none ssg now
if you need more info email me.
__________________
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push

Last edited by speedxl; 07-04-2003 at 12:18 PM.
speedxl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2003, 06:59 PM   #3321
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 775
Default

Racerdx6: Isn't it ironic that the cost of these cars is so cheap, yet they go sooooo fast! I have an 8x1 in mine and it rocks.....I haven't turned the motor since the first of the year. Try going this fast with a sedan. Dial 1-800-big-$.
Graphitedust is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2003, 07:15 PM   #3322
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,000
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

robk - Lonnergan ran a modified 12L last season. It used a thick chassis plate (they made a small run of these), dampening tubes and the "old skool" front suspension. He used the upper pod plate from the oval car to make this conversion. Blackstock ran the disc dampening system, but a 12LC chassis. Henderson ran the same as Lonnergan. I don't see a new 12th scale from Associated in the near future. [now maybe having said that, they will do it]

The best way to make a conversion to dampening system by tubes and rods is to use either the CRC conversion or the IRS conversion. The IRS conversion also gives you a thick chassis that is well suited for carpet. It is a little stiff for pavement. Word has it that Paved Onroad Nats 1/12 Stock Champion Mike Dunnigan wanted to cut some bracing out of the IRS chassis to get more flex for the conditions. I don't know if he actually did it, but that should be in your consideration for selecting a car to run. I wish Stormperson would have run better at the Nats so we could brag about his Speedmerchant REV3. One chassis seems to fit both carpet and pavement.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2003, 07:17 PM   #3323
Tech Champion
 
TimPotter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Boynton Beach Fl > Randoph NJ
Posts: 7,481
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to TimPotter
Default

Doug, I think the normal Yokomo chassi sand the shooters are very similar if not the same... Yo can get the yokomo chassis in the states.
__________________
Clean Title & Escrow|p3|TRF|Tamiya|SerpentAmerica|FSEARA|Team Butter|RC 3|Munno |RCTECH #29|EAMotorsports|BMI|Novak|SpeedPassion|RadioPost
TimPotter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2003, 08:19 PM   #3324
Tech Elite
 
RBLove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 3,717
Trader Rating: 72 (100%+)
Default

Mo did pretty well with his Speedmerchant........
__________________
RC America, Xray, Hudy, R1 Wurks, EA Motorsports, ProLevel RC, BSR Racing Tires
RBLove is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2003, 04:52 AM   #3325
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

I didnt see u out there, lol (btw, it wasnt even funny how much faster regular stock was than masters, i think the TQ in 12th stock was 20 laps and the TQ in masters 12th was 18 laps, and a good stock 12th lap time was 24 seconds, so it would have been an easy 1st place trophy for you to have taken home).

As far as the Rev. 3 went, the car was awsome (for some reason it was unable to go straight down the straightaway however alot of other 12th scale drivers had the same problems. it wasnt because it was a spedmerchant, i saw t-bar cars having the same problems), i could easily hang with 2001 12th stock asphalt champ Rob Michael in his Corrally in the infield, espically the tigher sections.

Mo did do very well, he had some problems with traffic and other drivers he was racing with is what i heard (since i couldnt have seen it considering i was all of his 12th scale races).

BTW, DavidL, any chance u are coming to BBT this season? Steve enlarged the track so that the road course extents all the way out to the right wall (where the oval track is) so now there is a giant oval and he will put a road course in the middle of it. apperently the oval guys were complaining that steve's old oval was too hard.
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2003, 05:47 AM   #3326
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,618
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
(blackstock and lonagran took down mod and stock 12th scale at the carpet nats a few months ago).
Lonergan didn't win Stock, he won Masters. Alex Lopez won Stock with a Rev.3. Speedmerchant, 17 time National Champions.
__________________
Team CRC, PowerPush, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, TxDSkingraphix, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2003, 06:35 AM   #3327
Tech Adept
 
Cracker78's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 140
Send a message via AIM to Cracker78
Default

Thanks for all the input guys... I guess that will teach me to stop taking TTT too seriously On the other hand, I really like the irs conversion kit. Except it is just an upgrade kit and not a whole car (and a kinda expensive one at that). Maybe I will just by the chassis because its thicker and all I really do is carpet racing. Does anyone know how thick it is so I can compare to my current 12l3?
Cracker78 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2003, 06:53 AM   #3328
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,618
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Cracker: I think you can get the Old Skool front-end from Speedmerchant for around $20, so if you were gonna build a Rugrat, you could order a set of IRS lowered Pod Plates when you order the car, and get the front-end from Speedmerchant and that'd put you at about $160. Throw your current T-bar set up and diff in it and you'd have a pretty much top of the line car.

Of course you could just buy a Rev.3 for $160 too.
__________________
Team CRC, PowerPush, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, TxDSkingraphix, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2003, 11:33 AM   #3329
Tech Champion
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 7,556
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

davidl- i stand corrected. I knew Chuck had a Trinity for a while (he visited Leiure Hours in IL a few times year before last). i knew Walt was doing his own thing as far as chassis. I was told by a third party that it was part of ongoing development. Who knows though, as a lot of rumors go around like that.

Are you running the IRS car? If so have you tried it in mod?
__________________
A mutually re-enforcing cascade of failure

"Failior [sic] crowns enterprise." Robert Goddard

I-Lap Scoring Systems http://www.rclapcounter.com/
robk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2003, 11:33 AM   #3330
Tech Champion
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 7,556
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

And by the way has anyone gotten a hold of the Speedmerchant V3 front end (or whatever they call it)?
__________________
A mutually re-enforcing cascade of failure

"Failior [sic] crowns enterprise." Robert Goddard

I-Lap Scoring Systems http://www.rclapcounter.com/
robk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 04:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 01:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 07:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 08:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (0 members and 3 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:18 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net