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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-16-2010, 09:25 AM   #33271
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I want to get a screw kit for my 12 scale gen xl, what would be a good one to get ? I want all allen screws if possible, NO phillips they seem to strip real easy, and is there any that are anodized red.
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:23 AM   #33272
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Can anyone recommend a small switch for an rx pack? The only ones I have are the big bulky ones. leads or no leads already attached will work for me.
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:34 AM   #33273
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Can anyone recommend a small switch for an rx pack? The only ones I have are the big bulky ones. leads or no leads already attached will work for me.
I would like a good no lead switch myself. The ones I got from Radio Shack are the perfect size but so cheap that they would flip on and off just from vibration.
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:47 AM   #33274
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Originally Posted by whynot View Post
I want to get a screw kit for my 12 scale gen xl, what would be a good one to get ? I want all allen screws if possible, NO phillips they seem to strip real easy, and is there any that are anodized red.
mike
The complete screw kit from CRC is anodized red and only like $16.
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:52 AM   #33275
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Originally Posted by JustMe2 View Post
The complete screw kit from CRC is anodized red and only like $16.
I was looking for some that are stronger than the stock screws, thanks for the reply.I was checking out rcscrewz, are these what people are using?
mike
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:53 AM   #33276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
Yeh Chuck above got his from a large order I placed to CS directly a few months ago. Shipping was more expensive than the glue! So if you are going to order some... make sure you order a ton of it. Also since their site is not at all in English, you need to practice up on your German in order even complete the order process. (as the paypal site it sends you to is in German also)

I asked them of their plans to ship domesticly, and they said "Nope".

From all the CAs I tested on sidewalls... this stuff is the best.

So does that mean you have extra you can sell to the rest of us?
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:58 AM   #33277
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Originally Posted by whynot View Post
I was looking for some that are stronger than the stock screws, thanks for the reply.I was checking out rcscrewz, are these what people are using?
mike
I wouldn't suggest these guys. I bought a car for my son that was equipped with their screw kit. The same size screws would require different size allens. Stripped out a few and had to replace with the next bigger size in metric due to their inconsistency. Search the forums here as I am not the only one who has had problems with their inferior products and/or customer service.
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Old 01-16-2010, 11:05 AM   #33278
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Doesn't CRC have a titanium allen screw kit? Not sure but I thought I saw them somewhere.
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Old 01-16-2010, 01:06 PM   #33279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whynot View Post
I was looking for some that are stronger than the stock screws, thanks for the reply.I was checking out rcscrewz, are these what people are using?
mike
I've been using the CRC ones for years on both my CRC and non-CRC cars and haven't had any problem with them being weak. If your finding your stripping out the allen head then you need better tools. Any aluminum or titanium screw will be prone to stripping the head out if you are using cheap allen wrenches. Look for something with precision ground tips and your screws will last a lot longer.
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Old 01-16-2010, 02:25 PM   #33280
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I've been using the CRC ones for years on both my CRC and non-CRC cars and haven't had any problem with them being weak. If your finding your stripping out the allen head then you need better tools. Any aluminum or titanium screw will be prone to stripping the head out if you are using cheap allen wrenches. Look for something with precision ground tips and your screws will last a lot longer.
I dont have a problem with any of the allen screws, The phillips ones that hole the lower front arm are the ones that want to strip. I have a craftsmans screwdriver,I prob. could get a newer one, or maybe just buy some stronger allen ones.
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Old 01-16-2010, 02:36 PM   #33281
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Originally Posted by whynot View Post
I dont have a problem with any of the allen screws, The phillips ones that hole the lower front arm are the ones that want to strip. I have a craftsmans screwdriver,I prob. could get a newer one, or maybe just buy some stronger allen ones.
Try these listed on the CRC web site; http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718961

Allen head instead of the phillips screws. Are you pre-threading the lower arms before running the screws in?
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Old 01-16-2010, 03:07 PM   #33282
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Hi all, sorry if this question already been answered,but, what is the better wire gauge size for use in a pan car, 12awg , 14awg or 16awg, it will be used in a Assoc 12R5.1 with a Tekin RS/10.5,cheers.

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Old 01-16-2010, 03:56 PM   #33283
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I dont have a problem with any of the allen screws, The phillips ones that hole the lower front arm are the ones that want to strip. I have a craftsmans screwdriver,I prob. could get a newer one, or maybe just buy some stronger allen ones.
Ah...then you probably have the wrong sized screwdriver. If it is too small or the angle is too steep you will have problems stripping them. An 8/32nd tap helps too...that way you pre-thread the arms.
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Old 01-16-2010, 03:57 PM   #33284
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Hi all, sorry if this question already been answered,but, what is the better wire gauge size for use in a pan car, 12awg , 14awg or 16awg, it will be used in a Assoc 12R5.1 with a Tekin RS/10.5,cheers.

Michael
Most of us use 16awg in 1/12th scale.
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Old 01-16-2010, 04:00 PM   #33285
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for a 10 or lower motor, 16 ga. I use 18 ga. but only run 17.5 and 13.5. No issues.
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