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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-12-2010, 08:09 PM   #33211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I consider the chunking to be my fault.

But, the bearing fit on the front wheels is a bit loose.
Also the rear wheels require a bit of work to run true.
I've found the front wheel bearing fit to be a problem, but haven't encountered the issue with the rear tires. I'm using small strips of masking tape to take up the slack in the bearing bores, which tightens things up nicely.

And yes, I too consider chunking my fault.
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Old 01-13-2010, 08:19 AM   #33212
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Originally Posted by Jack Rimer View Post
I think we are talking about two different problems here. One is "chunking' and the other is "peeling". Chunking is certainly an issue with all foam tires to some extent. Whites and yellows to much more severe degree. Peeling implies that the tires were not glued satisfactorily from the start. Many people mistake chunking for peeling, when in fact they are two separate issues. We did come out with orange to minumize chunking. The thing I found troubling and confusing was that someone said they peeled back 5-7mm of rubber and reglued our tires. I can't imagine how that is possible. I can't get the edges to release unless I physically tear the rubber. Just remember, if there is black on the rim (foam), your tire is CHUNKED not PEELED.
I don't know what to tell everyone about the wheel bearing issue. I have emailed and received confirmation from our molder on 5 separate occasions that the bearing holes are fixed, yet each time they are loose. I can only assume that the wheels, while in transit, distort somehow. This is incredibly frustrating since it has not always been an issue. I have more arriving any day, so we will see if it is fixed. Oh, by the way, the factory that makes our molds did NOT burn down. As with businesses around the world, they have cut back on staff and are struggling to keep up with demand, while still being conservative about hiring back employees. We see this with our rubber supplier too. An order typically used to take 60 days from start to delivery to our door. Now it is at least 90 days or more. This has thrown all of our scheduling for a loop, thus creating shortages.
Jack,

Like InspGadget and SlowerOne said, thanks for coming on and taking interest. In my original description, I streamlined my process to try to chunk down the length of my post. Yes, I've been doing this (R/C) for a while and understand "chunk" vs "peel".

When I talked of peeling up the edge 5-7mm "right out of the box" it is a bit more involved (which is why I quit using Jaco's). My experience that just the initial stress on the tire of the first couple of runs or the first passes on a truer are enough to "loosen" up the edge. I typically true down my tires a fair amount before they even see the track. So, right out of the box, for me, they go to the truer, then get the edge worked on. The 3M weatherstrip adhesive is very flexible and like Gadget said, when the rim flexes, the CA is brittle and gives way. Having re-glued the edge with the 3M gives the tire support when the rim flexes. If a set of tires hasn't loosend up the edge right off the truer, it will within the first pass on the track. I have to watch carefully and get the 3M on it before there is a chance it will chunk. Once the 3M is applied, I still have to keep on on sidewall maintenance with CA glue to prevent chunking. That's fairly common no matter what make of tire you choose.

Again, I found this to be a lot of extra work and decided to go a different direction. That's a consumers choice. If you can use the information being given here it may assist you down the road. I do like your rims and referred to my current tire choice as having "rims like a Jaco and foam like a CRC" From my perspective, each company has it about half right.
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Old 01-13-2010, 03:51 PM   #33213
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I buy rc4less tires-black(50)frnts;black(45)rears.Great traction,great wear,good rims(even if they are orange).Oh and good prices too.Havn't had a prob with them and they DON'T CHUNK or peel,and wear like iron.I used to go thru jaco yellows in 3 runs the front jaco blacks were 6 run tires.I like jaco's but ----
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:06 PM   #33214
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G'day guys, I have a dilemma that I need some help with.

Yesterday I got my new 1S Lipo's and went to plug it into the GTB 4 Cell installed - and as soon as I plugged it in, it generated so much heat on the connection (deans plug on battery to ESC connection) that is de-soldered the wires on the ESC side of the connection!

Any ideas on what may have happened? I haven't dared to re-solder it and try again. The Battery still reads voltage on th multimeter - so it hasn't been fried. Not sure about the esc though.

Any ideas?
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:23 PM   #33215
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Sounds like reverse polarity to me, cant think of anything else that would do that. Double check that you soldered the wires to your ESC the right way around.
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Old 01-13-2010, 06:06 PM   #33216
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It was a 2nd hand car - so i didn't do the orginial soldering. Thanks - i'll take a look.

Are the GTB 4 Cell ESC's protected from reverse polarity? (HOPE SO!)
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Old 01-13-2010, 06:24 PM   #33217
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No worries, hope it's all ok
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:33 PM   #33218
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I buy rc4less tires-black(50)frnts;black(45)rears.Great traction,great wear,good rims(even if they are orange).Oh and good prices too.Havn't had a prob with them and they DON'T CHUNK or peel,and wear like iron.I used to go thru jaco yellows in 3 runs the front jaco blacks were 6 run tires.I like jaco's but ----
Just ordered a set - appreciate the tip. I've been struggling with foam tires.
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:59 PM   #33219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GasGod View Post
I buy rc4less tires-black(50)frnts;black(45)rears.Great traction,great wear,good rims(even if they are orange).Oh and good prices too.Havn't had a prob with them and they DON'T CHUNK or peel,and wear like iron.I used to go thru jaco yellows in 3 runs the front jaco blacks were 6 run tires.I like jaco's but ----
What type of track do you use those on? Running blacks on our carpet track is like putting on ice skates without knowing how to skate. CRC Low Greys in the rear seem to be the best compromise for durability and traction with CRC purples up front. Need a little more steering on a cold day and lilacs work well.
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Old 01-13-2010, 08:38 PM   #33220
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Originally Posted by NT View Post
It was a 2nd hand car - so i didn't do the orginial soldering. Thanks - i'll take a look.

Are the GTB 4 Cell ESC's protected from reverse polarity? (HOPE SO!)

No, most likely you damaged a fet or two, from your post it sounds like the magic smoke did'nt release but I suspect that it will soon.
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:29 PM   #33221
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Has anyone had any problems running a 2cell lipo pack(8.4v) to futaba servos?
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:43 PM   #33222
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not with my 4 9650's
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Old 01-14-2010, 12:22 AM   #33223
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Hey Guys
I'm running a 17.5 epic duo for the first time in my 12R5.1 getting ready for
my first visit to the SNOWBIRDS. Looking for some advice on a starting spur
and pinion size for that size track, I'll be running 44 rears, any advice would greatly be appreciated....
Thanks
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Old 01-14-2010, 01:20 AM   #33224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasb View Post
Hey Guys
I'm running a 17.5 epic duo for the first time in my 12R5.1 getting ready for
my first visit to the SNOWBIRDS. Looking for some advice on a starting spur
and pinion size for that size track, I'll be running 44 rears, any advice would greatly be appreciated....
Thanks
Depends on which ESC you have! When I downloaded the new Tekin RS software, I dropped 8 teeth on my pinion, after increasing my spur by 12 teeth! (was 72/44, now 84/36)! That's on a 100 x 60 track.
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Old 01-14-2010, 02:55 AM   #33225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GasGod View Post
I buy rc4less tires-black(50)frnts;black(45)rears.Great traction,great wear,good rims(even if they are orange).Oh and good prices too.Havn't had a prob with them and they DON'T CHUNK or peel,and wear like iron.I used to go thru jaco yellows in 3 runs the front jaco blacks were 6 run tires.I like jaco's but ----
Im going to order a few sets and give em a try, what are you running the exotic or natural rubber? whats the difference? thanx
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