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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-11-2010, 09:26 PM   #33196
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Originally Posted by JustMe2 View Post
No need to change your chassis, just use Speedzone's saddle lipo packs; http://www.speedzoneusa.com/estore/i...a788a742341970
thank you very much for the info.
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:44 PM   #33197
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With regards to tyres, and tyres chunking, personally, I usually buy 6 sets of GRP Magenta fronts and 6 sets of GRP Pink rears. We normally run 1 practice heat, with 4 qualifiers and then a final. Each set gets used once per race day. Race 1 sees tyres ran 1 thru 6, race 2 6 thru to 1. They end up wearing down at the same rate so don't have to worry about ride height changes, or gearing changes, etc. These tyres are now on their 3rd season and racing and still going well and I think its the fact that only one coating of additive goes on them each meeting (so they don't soften up after multiple coatings) plus I cut large wheel arches out of the b'shells so they don't cut into the tyre during an incident. Overall, those compounds work really well for me so have stuck with them over the years and although it's a bit of a payout to start with, overall, I am quids in coz they're still going well! Cheers.
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:51 PM   #33198
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I'm am wondering if this is a foolish idea. I am sitting on an Associated 12 L3. I would like to run a brushless and lipo in it. Is this a goofy idea considering how old the car is? Getting a lipo specific car right is not in the plans. I would only be running at club level races and learning to set up the car.
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:01 PM   #33199
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Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
I'm am wondering if this is a foolish idea. I am sitting on an Associated 12 L3. I would like to run a brushless and lipo in it. Is this a goofy idea considering how old the car is? Getting a lipo specific car right is not in the plans. I would only be running at club level races and learning to set up the car.
I bought a rc12l3 for my son and will be setting him up with these lipos;http://redirectingat.com/?id=42X1295...a788a742341970
This is what he will be learning with, his first 1/12th as well.

Do a search in this tread for suggested setups on that car.
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:20 PM   #33200
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magenta magenta cut right best, and get a new car parts are hard to come by sometimes for the older cars.
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:27 PM   #33201
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Originally Posted by falcon_az View Post
Great idea... if I can find a tire truing setup. But they are expensive... don't see one in the cards for a while. Do you know of any tire truing setups... reasonably priced?
Come see me Thursday night or Sunday and I will either cut some for you or show you how to do it yourself. Better yet, I will give you a set of smaller tires to run to see if it makes a difference. I find it odd that your left rear is doing that considering the current layout. All of the fast corners are right handers and the outside boards are on the right. You might check the body to see if the wheel wells are cut out enough and not causing that.

I think a major portion of the peeling/chunking issues being seen is the extreme speed that the cars are going now and the extra load put on the side walls. We would rarely see this in the old days and actually, most of this started when all the companies started making the rims bigger. Not sure how that could cause the problem, just an observation.

I've had the best luck cutting rears to 43mm to start and super glueing the sidewalls a little along with rounding over the edges. I think this not only helps keep the foam from separating but actually frees up the car a little to eliminate some of the side wall stress that can tear the foam. I know that Drew and I are both running yellow and orange rears and not having the extreme issues that you show in your picture. Sure, we will get an occasional chunk or peel but not like that.

And to Jack, if the manufacturer of the rims can't fix this, you should be looking for a new vendor. I doubt that Assoc., Losi or Xray would accept those tolerances. I know I wouldn't. If the material being used is shrinking that much after shipping, I would think the rims would be out of round as well. Sounds more like a mold issue to me as any competent injection molding company would factor the shrinkage into the mold design from the beginning. Other than the bearing issue, I like the newer rim design.

Last edited by SteveL; 01-12-2010 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:46 PM   #33202
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magenta magenta cut right best, and get a new car parts are hard to come by sometimes for the older cars.
True, but the 12l4 parts will work and upgrade the 12l3 if money is tight as it is for a lot of us. CRC and these guys have parts readily available; http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/StoreFront
LPH are great people to deal with! Fast shipping and live inventory help make it all good.
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Old 01-12-2010, 03:32 AM   #33203
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With regards to tyres, and tyres chunking, personally, I usually buy 6 sets of GRP Magenta fronts and 6 sets of GRP Pink rears. We normally run 1 practice heat, with 4 qualifiers and then a final. Each set gets used once per race day. Race 1 sees tyres ran 1 thru 6, race 2 6 thru to 1. They end up wearing down at the same rate so don't have to worry about ride height changes, or gearing changes, etc. These tyres are now on their 3rd season and racing and still going well and I think its the fact that only one coating of additive goes on them each meeting (so they don't soften up after multiple coatings) plus I cut large wheel arches out of the b'shells so they don't cut into the tyre during an incident. Overall, those compounds work really well for me so have stuck with them over the years and although it's a bit of a payout to start with, overall, I am quids in coz they're still going well! Cheers.
That's exactly what I do...we run 2 quals and a main so I only need 3 sets of dbl pink all around...but running on asphalt I don't get as much races out of them...I usually end up replacing tires about every 4 to 5 races.
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Old 01-12-2010, 03:52 AM   #33204
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Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
Most of the time (on carpet, at least) we don't sauce the entire front tire, only 1/4 - 3/4. As stated before, I've seen this with black fronts on a fairly smooth surface (1/12 stock).
I was talking about the rears.
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:22 AM   #33205
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Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
I'm am wondering if this is a foolish idea. I am sitting on an Associated 12 L3. I would like to run a brushless and lipo in it. Is this a goofy idea considering how old the car is? Getting a lipo specific car right is not in the plans. I would only be running at club level races and learning to set up the car.
the only thing that you might have trouble with is mounting the brushless motor into the pod. some are longer and then there is the sensor wire. i think maybe the new novak ballistics may be a good candidate for an 12l3 pod
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:12 AM   #33206
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Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
I'm am wondering if this is a foolish idea. I am sitting on an Associated 12 L3. I would like to run a brushless and lipo in it. Is this a goofy idea considering how old the car is? Getting a lipo specific car right is not in the plans. I would only be running at club level races and learning to set up the car.
The hardest part will be mounting the brushless motor in the rear pod, but I wouldn't rule out the possibility of getting a brushless setup to fit properly. I had a CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R that required minimal modifications to the left side pod plate to accept the sensor wire, otherwise the motor fit without any problems. You'll probably be limited to using very small spur gears (72-74 teeth), and you'll also be limited in your choice of gear ratios due to the limited space. I'd borrow a brushless motor from a fellow racer, install it in the pod to see where mods need to be made, and proceed if it seems that you'd be able to perform the modifications while allowing the suspension to work properly.

LiPo battery selection will be limited to the new SpeedZone 1S LiPo saddle pack - racers have tried other adaptations, but use of the new saddle pack is really the way to go.

While most bodies will "fit", stick to the ProtoForm AMR-12 since it has the most room for motor wiring and proper side-to-side pod articulation.

Hope this helps - better get the Dremel ready!!!
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:56 AM   #33207
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Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
I'm am wondering if this is a foolish idea. I am sitting on an Associated 12 L3. I would like to run a brushless and lipo in it. Is this a goofy idea considering how old the car is? Getting a lipo specific car right is not in the plans. I would only be running at club level races and learning to set up the car.
No worries. I ran a Nosram/LRP X11 10.5 in an original L3 rear pod and IRS Rug Rat without any issues. Didn't have to modify anything. I've now installed a CRC lowered pod to be able to drop the rear axle and use smaller tires, also without any issues. I still use 4 NiMh cells, but will purchase the Speedzone saddle pack lipo for next season.
Go for it!
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:26 AM   #33208
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Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
Come see me Thursday night or Sunday and I will either cut some for you or show you how to do it yourself. Better yet, I will give you a set of smaller tires to run to see if it makes a difference. I find it odd that your left rear is doing that considering the current layout. All of the fast corners are right handers and the outside boards are on the right. You might check the body to see if the wheel wells are cut out enough and not causing that.
Thanks Steve,
I'll run you down Sunday.
Cheers,
Jeff
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Old 01-12-2010, 01:39 PM   #33209
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
One thing I have noticed with the Yellow rears is that the peeling is actually from tearing due to the foam being soft and the bite being high on a slightly bumpy track. As the car rolls on the tire and you hit a bump or wrinkle in the carpet the tire actually tears from the wheel. You can still see black on the wheel but the rest of the foam looks peeled. I think its actually torn from being so soft and racing on high traction surfaces.

This is what I have seen the past year or so of running a lot of yellows....May not be the same for everyone else.

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Originally Posted by Theslowguy View Post
Have you tried keeping sauce off the outside .25 inch of the tire to reduce the bite of the sidewall?
Doesn't work! After two or three laps tyres pick up the traction from the line on the carpet, and the whole tyre is working with the additive. When you sauce half the front tyre, test it when it comes off - it has the same traction across the whole width!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Rimer View Post
I can't get the edges to release unless I physically tear the rubber. Just remember, if there is black on the rim (foam), your tire is CHUNKED not PEELED.
Understood - in which case all my tyres chunk, and you can sleep easy in your bed!! Like I said, this isn't a complaint, just some information. I have no problem with your product, whatever colour wheel it comes on!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Rimer View Post
I don't know why this year would be any worse than previous years. We have used the same foam and glue from the same source we have used for 15 years. The bearing fit is an issue, but I have not heard about the rear hole being too big. As I said, not denying it, just have never heard about it.
Jack, have you heard we have a problem with the hole in the centre of the rear wheel being too big??!! (Sorry, couldn't resist that smart remark!) I received some today, following batches received in the last three months, and none of them 'click' onto my truer mandrel like the early batches received in the middle of last year. I have a temporary fix for the fronts, so its now just a mild irritation, but the rears are not so easy to fix, and the tyres do run out of true if you don't get them right.

I agree with others about the speeds of the cars, and the extra grip we have using modern tyres. My car now has 200 watts of power that I can use for eight minutes. Ten years ago it had about 120 watts of power that I couldn't use for eight minutes or it would go flat. Guess what has taken up that slack - the tyre!

Again, Jack, thanks for coming on here and being helpful, it's very brave. Bearing holes are a glitch - form is temporary, class is permanent!
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:24 PM   #33210
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I consider the chunking to be my fault.

But, the bearing fit on the front wheels is a bit loose.
Also the rear wheels require a bit of work to run true.
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