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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-11-2010, 05:28 PM   #33181
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I have a question does anybody know if somebody makes a chassis for RC12L4 that will take a lipo battery? I'm not sure if the R5 chassis is compatible.
Not aware of one but the saddle pack 1c lipo is now out and will solve your problem. Speedzone 3.7v Lipo 4800mAh 30C
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Old 01-11-2010, 05:33 PM   #33182
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Default Lipo Saddle packs

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Originally Posted by tony q View Post
I have a question does anybody know if somebody makes a chassis for RC12L4 that will take a lipo battery? I'm not sure if the R5 chassis is compatible.
No need to change your chassis, just use Speedzone's saddle lipo packs; http://www.speedzoneusa.com/estore/i...a788a742341970
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:47 PM   #33183
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Again, a 1mm layer of foam glued to the rim is technically a chunk (even if it peels back). If the rim is stripped bare, I refer to it as a peel. Unfortunately, all we can do is make sure the tires are glued securely to the wheels. I don't know why this year would be any worse than previous years. We have used the same foam and glue from the same source we have used for 15 years. The bearing fit is an issue, but I have not heard about the rear hole being too big. As I said, not denying it, just have never heard about it.
Looking at my rims this morning I saw some that had about 1mm of white rim showing in the spots where the foam has lifted from the rim. Most times I see like Andrew with a very fine layer of black still on the rim. The tire has pulled away from the rim leaving some black behind, but has not had a "chunk" taken out of it yet. I found when I started using 1 set of tires per round and re-gluing between race days that my tires last a good deal longer and I get less "chunks" of missing tire. Please don't take my comments to be a dig on Jaco...more of helping to provide information on the issue. I stick with Jaco tires because of the price and wide tire selection is the best. We race on sugar water coated asphalt that has pretty decent grip. Most of us are using a double pink or pink rear tire depending on which chassis or experience level the driver is. I've ran magentas when I couldn't get double pink and had it happen. I was also fortunate enough to make it to a couple of mainland carpet races this past year and ran yellow rears where I noticed the same thing happening. I've only had the bearing issue once and that was with the Blackhawks. Both of my Jaco sets since running the Blackhawks have had good bearing fit. For me this has been happening ever since I got back into 1/12th a few years ago. So I think it isn't something that has only been ha penning in the last year...only that it went largely unreported as everyone assumed it was a known issue.
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:47 PM   #33184
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i find the jaco foam seams to work better for me as far as traction then any other brand. as far as chunking or peeling. I find that the yellow as jack puts it chunk. but i find the case to be that the more you put latteral pressure on the car, the more they have a tendency to "chunk". running stock i find that my car does not put as much lateral load on the tires as in super stock. so I find that I "tear" the tire less and therefor chunk less. I can agree that superstock I have less control then I do in stock. but as other have said even in a clean run, i have had chunck in my tires. but more in superstock then in stock. and before the new speedos with the advanced timing, i hardly ever chunked my stock tires.

on the flip side, I am not sure I would want the foam to change much. I really do like the traction the yellow provide. when I started the "hot" setup was purple/gray. that is soo much harder to drive then yellow/double pink.

if there was a way to keep the traction level of the tire and make it less proan to chunking, that is what I would vote for. I find that the wear characteristics of the yellow tire, i am really ok with. I run a set of double pink/yellow for 2months+. I do run them a little big at the begining (44.5mm front) and run them a little small (39mm) but i have not found that I loose too much speed. I would say maybe .1 or .2 from big to small. but it is club racing.
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:59 PM   #33185
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I'm ordering CRC yellow's tomorrow (and the orange) - give 'em a try.

Who makes the hardest 12 scale foam tire?

Anyone know why there isn't a 12 scale rubber tire option? Should there be?
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:06 PM   #33186
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Rubber tires do not grip well enough for use in pan car racing except in certain applications like concrete banked oval. I think the cars are just too light to get good grip with rubber opposed to foam. I believe the hardest rear tire you can get is dbl pink in Jaco or magenta in CRC. But if everyone else at your track are running yellows, there's probably a good reason. You probably won't get enough grip with the harder compounds.
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:14 PM   #33187
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Originally Posted by falcon_az View Post
I'm ordering CRC yellow's tomorrow (and the orange) - give 'em a try.

Who makes the hardest 12 scale foam tire?

Anyone know why there isn't a 12 scale rubber tire option? Should there be?
The hardest I'm aware of is black rears from Parma #16033, not sure if thay still make them or not.

Rubber tires for pancars are called cap tires and are used mostly on concrete and/or banked oval tracks. I seem to recall that someone did make cap tires for 1/12 oval cars but that may have died off.

Are you racing in AZ?
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:15 PM   #33188
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I don't believe there have ever been rubber tires for 12th scale, and I doubt there ever will be, however.
F1 direct drive cars run rubbers occasionally, and they only weigh 200grams more than 12th scale.
So I imagine it would not be inconceivable to build a rubber tire that could work for 12th scale.

I think the real question is who would want it
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:23 PM   #33189
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I don't believe there have ever been rubber tires for 12th scale, and I doubt there ever will be, however.
F1 direct drive cars run rubbers occasionally, and they only weigh 200grams more than 12th scale.
So I imagine it would not be inconceivable to build a rubber tire that could work for 12th scale.

I think the real question is who would want it
Actually thats not correct, here is a web page that lists 1/12 cap tires from 2005.
http://www.johnsbsrracing.com/cap/index.htm
Its possible that these can still be found through some oval distributors like Lefthander RC.
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:27 PM   #33190
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I can't imagine why anyone would want to make their car totally loose rather than increase traction. If everyone is using yellows why would you want blacks, to hit every wall, tube and car on the track and make a bunch of enemies?

Get out there and use those chunked tires for practice then maybe in time you'll get more than one race per set. Haven't you noticed that even the skilled drivers chunk a tire every now and then.

Someone mentioned F1 tires. You may be able to modify them to work on a 1/12. It would cost you a bit but the tires would last longer.
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:27 PM   #33191
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I race in St Louis.

Thanks for the info on the rubber tires. They sure seem grippy enough and they seem to wear very well.

I'll give the CRCs a go both yellows for comparison with JACO and magenta for durability.
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:31 PM   #33192
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You do know that you can use any foam donut on the wheels with contact cement. We used to glue our own foams on the wheels and then true them to size. Very messy.

You can try using different densities of pipe insulation which is dirt cheap at Home Depot.
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:34 PM   #33193
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Great idea... if I can find a tire truing setup. But they are expensive... don't see one in the cards for a while. Do you know of any tire truing setups... reasonably priced?
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:38 PM   #33194
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Actually thats not correct, here is a web page that lists 1/12 cap tires from 2005.
http://www.johnsbsrracing.com/cap/index.htm
Its possible that these can still be found through some oval distributors like Lefthander RC.
That's true, I guess I thought we were referring to Road Course tires, not Oval tires which have no grip and are designed for low rolling resistance and a lot of down force.
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:09 PM   #33195
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I don't believe there have ever been rubber tires for 12th scale, and I doubt there ever will be, however.
F1 direct drive cars run rubbers occasionally, and they only weigh 200grams more than 12th scale.
So I imagine it would not be inconceivable to build a rubber tire that could work for 12th scale.

I think the real question is who would want it
That's true they did run rubber tires...but in terms of traction comparison they were crap. The only place they ran as good or better than foams is on dusty unprepared tracks which really were no fun to run on anyway.
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