R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-11-2010, 12:59 PM   #33166
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Rimer View Post
Honestly, this is the first I have heard about our tires peeling. I'm not saying it hasn't happened (obviously it has if you say so), but in the thousands and thousands of tires we have made, I had NO idea it was an issue. You mention that the first thing you do when you get our tires is "peel the outside edge 5-7mm". How is this possible? I just went into the back and took 50-75 tires and tried to peel them. There was no way the foam was coming off. We roughen every wheel and then use super glue to bond the foam to the wheel. This doesn't mean that from time to time a few tires get through that aren't glued as well as others, but it would seem to me that if it was as much of a problem as you say we would have heard about it. Since we warranty tires for coming unglued, and we have not had any returns, I would have no way of knowing this was an issue.
By the way, we intentionally make our wheels more flexible to prevent breakage. Trust me, it is much better to have people complain about flex than to have them be upset about breaking a wheel. We don't feel the flex compromises the performance so we tend to lean towards caution.
Jack, thanks for coming on an taking an interest, it is appreciated. We have the same experience in Europe despite using different additive and track markings. Just to be clear, the problem is confined to the yellow compound, and not to others.

As the tyres get used, they all soak up additive. This does weaken them a bit, but nonetheless the yellow compound gets to the point where the outer edge just breaks up. It isn't always a function of tyre diameter, but smaller diameters make the problem worse.

Even in a clean run, where you don't touch the barriers or get clipped by another car, the tyres simply break up on the outer edge. There is still foam and glue on the wheel, but the edges break away. This does not happen with pink, 2x pink, magenta, etc.

We thought you knew about this, and that was why you brought out the orange compound with stiffer foam on the edge! In my experience, I have had no problems like this with orange.

Please be careful with the data you take in here about this problem. Most posts here blame clipping the track markers, but in my experience, most chunking damage is done when one is hit from behind by another competitor. One clip from a carbon chassis on a foam tyre is enough!

Whilst your concern is appreciated, like Gadget I regard it as one of those things, and get on with it. After switching to orange compound, with the harder outer edge, the problem has gone away. I hope this information helps you in your research.
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 01:04 PM   #33167
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,660
Default

It happens on the front tires as well, and seems to be more common on the black rims. Usually it is about 1/32 - 1/16 of an inch, but can be more.

Whenever the car handles strangely, I've traced it back to the outside edge of the tire peeling and rolling over. I started CA'ing the rim/tire seam before running them, but it still happens (orange rears and black fronts).

The tires aren't chunked at all, just the edge peels. One set of orange rear tires was peeled about 2/3rds of the way around. They were trued from new to 1.75", then glued. After the glue dries, I hit it with some 400 grit to get rid of any roughness that would catch if you tap a board. They then are mounted on the car, sauced, wiped off, and run. Most of the time, they are first run tires that this happens to.
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 7 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 01:07 PM   #33168
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Jack, thanks for coming on an taking an interest, it is appreciated. We have the same experience in Europe despite using different additive and track markings. Just to be clear, the problem is confined to the yellow compound, and not to others.
I've had it happen on dbl pink, magenta, yellows, and seen it happen on some of my local racers running pinks.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 01:13 PM   #33169
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Northern & Central Illinois
Posts: 4,337
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Falcon, all newbies chunk tires until they manage to go around the track without hitting any thing and have trimmed their bodies so it doesn't tuck in and cut the tire. I used to go through a set or two per race and now I can go four or five races per set. (After the fifth race they are pretty much worn out but still good for practice.)

Going to a harder compound will only cause you to crash more and chunk more. Just race on the chunked tires as long as you can to get practice so you don't hit every board on the track.
AreCee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 02:03 PM   #33170
Team EAM
 
EAMotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 8,862
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to EAMotorsports
Default

One thing I have noticed with the Yellow rears is that the peeling is actually from tearing due to the foam being soft and the bite being high on a slightly bumpy track. As the car rolls on the tire and you hit a bump or wrinkle in the carpet the tire actually tears from the wheel. You can still see black on the wheel but the rest of the foam looks peeled. I think its actually torn from being so soft and racing on high traction surfaces.

This is what I have seen the past year or so of running a lot of yellows....May not be the same for everyone else.

EA
__________________
Contact Us
Team EAM, Our Facebook
Xray | RCAmerica | Hudy | Apex RC | ProSpec America | Killer Concepts | AVID | Futaba.
EAMotorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 02:11 PM   #33171
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,053
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
One thing I have noticed with the Yellow rears is that the peeling is actually from tearing due to the foam being soft and the bite being high on a slightly bumpy track. As the car rolls on the tire and you hit a bump or wrinkle in the carpet the tire actually tears from the wheel. You can still see black on the wheel but the rest of the foam looks peeled. I think its actually torn from being so soft and racing on high traction surfaces.

This is what I have seen the past year or so of running a lot of yellows....May not be the same for everyone else.

EA
+1
__________________
Pro Spec America/Apex RC - Team ORCA - Awesomatix USA - Roche RC USA - AVID - Sweep - Protoform - Pro-One RC - Slapmaster Tools - Hebiki Design Works - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers - Timezone Hobbies
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 02:25 PM   #33172
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 378
Trader Rating: 9 (91%+)
Default

Have you tried keeping sauce off the outside .25 inch of the tire to reduce the bite of the sidewall?
Theslowguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 03:05 PM   #33173
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,660
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Theslowguy View Post
Have you tried keeping sauce off the outside .25 inch of the tire to reduce the bite of the sidewall?
Most of the time (on carpet, at least) we don't sauce the entire front tire, only 1/4 - 3/4. As stated before, I've seen this with black fronts on a fairly smooth surface (1/12 stock).
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 7 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 03:52 PM   #33174
Tech Elite
 
TommyBlazin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: jersey
Posts: 2,544
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

HEY GUYS,for the front end kingpin for the shock,IN A 12R5.1, is there a aftermarket company making them that are silky smooth, so you dont have to polish, i already found the balls from, ksg, the oval guys have the precision game down tight!!! thanx
__________________
Trying my hand at electric in off season...TLR Sct 2.0---Trinity D4 10.5---HobbyWing 120 amp Black Edition---Trinity the "Brick"--Panther tires--Savox
TommyBlazin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 04:11 PM   #33175
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 793
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Jack, thanks for coming on an taking an interest, it is appreciated. We have the same experience in Europe despite using different additive and track markings. Just to be clear, the problem is confined to the yellow compound, and not to others.

As the tyres get used, they all soak up additive. This does weaken them a bit, but nonetheless the yellow compound gets to the point where the outer edge just breaks up. It isn't always a function of tyre diameter, but smaller diameters make the problem worse.

Even in a clean run, where you don't touch the barriers or get clipped by another car, the tyres simply break up on the outer edge. There is still foam and glue on the wheel, but the edges break away. This does not happen with pink, 2x pink, magenta, etc.

We thought you knew about this, and that was why you brought out the orange compound with stiffer foam on the edge! In my experience, I have had no problems like this with orange.

Please be careful with the data you take in here about this problem. Most posts here blame clipping the track markers, but in my experience, most chunking damage is done when one is hit from behind by another competitor. One clip from a carbon chassis on a foam tyre is enough!

Whilst your concern is appreciated, like Gadget I regard it as one of those things, and get on with it. After switching to orange compound, with the harder outer edge, the problem has gone away. I hope this information helps you in your research.
I think we are talking about two different problems here. One is "chunking' and the other is "peeling". Chunking is certainly an issue with all foam tires to some extent. Whites and yellows to much more severe degree. Peeling implies that the tires were not glued satisfactorily from the start. Many people mistake chunking for peeling, when in fact they are two separate issues. We did come out with orange to minumize chunking. The thing I found troubling and confusing was that someone said they peeled back 5-7mm of rubber and reglued our tires. I can't imagine how that is possible. I can't get the edges to release unless I physically tear the rubber. Just remember, if there is black on the rim (foam), your tire is CHUNKED not PEELED.
I don't know what to tell everyone about the wheel bearing issue. I have emailed and received confirmation from our molder on 5 separate occasions that the bearing holes are fixed, yet each time they are loose. I can only assume that the wheels, while in transit, distort somehow. This is incredibly frustrating since it has not always been an issue. I have more arriving any day, so we will see if it is fixed. Oh, by the way, the factory that makes our molds did NOT burn down. As with businesses around the world, they have cut back on staff and are struggling to keep up with demand, while still being conservative about hiring back employees. We see this with our rubber supplier too. An order typically used to take 60 days from start to delivery to our door. Now it is at least 90 days or more. This has thrown all of our scheduling for a loop, thus creating shortages.
Jack Rimer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 04:11 PM   #33176
Tech Fanatic
 
Ffejdat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 904
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Jack Rimer- I race in Minnesota,(MMR) and almost EVERY tire we see on the track comes apart, some quite quickly. I know some are from hitting boards, other cars, bodies, and tape seams, but some just plain peel, usaully the outh edge of the tire peels off, the tire does NOT chunk, and some foam is still glued to the rim, basically a 43mm rear tire peels at about teh 40mm level, leving a 1 mm layer of foam on the rim, and 1mm or so of foam that peels back or rolls under, making it very inconsistent cornering. This is with Jack gripper and Sticky fingers, and usually lightly super glued seam or edge. Any tips to prevent this?
I myself have been racing 12th cars for 25 years, and have never seen so many chunked tires and peeling proplems as this season, many bad rims also, front bearings not fitting, and rear rims with the center locating hole too big. JEFF
__________________
Ahhhh, I could'a got a falcon!
Ffejdat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 04:19 PM   #33177
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 793
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ffejdat View Post
Jack Rimer- I race in Minnesota,(MMR) and almost EVERY tire we see on the track comes apart, some quite quickly. I know some are from hitting boards, other cars, bodies, and tape seams, but some just plain peel, usaully the outh edge of the tire peels off, the tire does NOT chunk, and some foam is still glued to the rim, basically a 43mm rear tire peels at about teh 40mm level, leving a 1 mm layer of foam on the rim, and 1mm or so of foam that peels back or rolls under, making it very inconsistent cornering. This is with Jack gripper and Sticky fingers, and usually lightly super glued seam or edge. Any tips to prevent this?
I myself have been racing 12th cars for 25 years, and have never seen so many chunked tires and peeling proplems as this season, many bad rims also, front bearings not fitting, and rear rims with the center locating hole too big. JEFF
Again, a 1mm layer of foam glued to the rim is technically a chunk (even if it peels back). If the rim is stripped bare, I refer to it as a peel. Unfortunately, all we can do is make sure the tires are glued securely to the wheels. I don't know why this year would be any worse than previous years. We have used the same foam and glue from the same source we have used for 15 years. The bearing fit is an issue, but I have not heard about the rear hole being too big. As I said, not denying it, just have never heard about it.
Jack Rimer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 04:22 PM   #33178
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,633
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Maybe it's just the speed we are getting out of the latest speedos and the foam just can't take it anymore
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 05:12 PM   #33179
Tech Fanatic
 
tony q's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: 90631
Posts: 896
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

I have a question does anybody know if somebody makes a chassis for RC12L4 that will take a lipo battery? I'm not sure if the R5 chassis is compatible.
tony q is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 05:26 PM   #33180
Tech Elite
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,763
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Jack,

Thanks fopr taking the time to post in here and keep us updated. Considering the beating some company reps take, I'm glad to know some are brave enough to make informative posts. I am also glad to know the bearing issue is being worked on and that your building didn't burn! I'll be sure to pass the word on to my "source".

I have found the same to be true as EA. I understand the need for nomenclature to differentiate a chunk from a peel. I run on low grip ozite in 13.5 and 17.5 classes. I typically start my tires around 44 mm rear and sauce the whole rear with paragon. Not every run of course, but many times I am able to complete an 8 minute run without touching another car or board. Once the race is over I'll notice that despite not touching anything, the tire has separated from the rim, leaving a whisper thin layer of black foam on the rim. This has happened for me more with the yellow and orange compounds which are the only ones soft enough for me to get decent grip. I tried CRC yellows recently, and despite some board meetings etc, I was surprised to find the foam had not peeled back from itself/the rim. I truly don't think its the glue, but the foam is tearing as Eric mentioned. I happen to feel it's a difference in the rubber content of the foam(I have seen MUCH less foam tearing running the pink rears aside from the reduction in rear grip that makes the car hard to drive for 8 minutes). I know nothing about the ins and outs of foam tire manufacturing and production, but in my simple little world, if I could snap my fingers I would be finding a way to mount a CRC-esque yellow comound foam on a Jaco wheel. Best possible combination IMHO. I really like the Jaco wheel (other than the bearing stuff that sounds like will get resolved), and I'm crazy/serious/dedicated enough to buy the tires, true the tires, and give up on them when they stop giving grip. I just would be much happier to find a way to do all that without going through the tires so fast. If our track had more grip I could start them smaller and run them smaller, but there's not much I can do about the indoor off-road track right next to the carpet and the resulting traffic it and the park flier pilots bring)

I should probably delete this as its too long, but oh well.
__________________
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
|◤Hobbywing◢|◤SpeedzoneUSA.com◢|◤Pro-One◢|
|◤ReflexRacing.net◢|◤Protoform◢|◤AVID R/C◢|
andrewdoherty is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:43 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0