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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-03-2003, 11:11 AM   #3301
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
as far as which car i would suggest running...

-asphalt: corrally (the thing is just stuck, but whatever you do, dont run it on carpet, it is awful)

-carpet: speedmerchant rev. 3 (for reasons discussed a thousand times over in recently past pages)

i would only run a t-bar car if i ran mod, in stock on carpet cars with side links absolutly dominate (knife and rev. 3).
I dunno if I agree with the Corally statement, I've seen 'em run fairly well on carpet, and last year a 12L3 won the Nats in Colorado. They're not that bad on carpet and they're far from dominant on asphalt.
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Old 07-03-2003, 12:58 PM   #3302
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
racerdx6: Welcome to the absolute greatest class of R/C racing. There's nothing better than wheeling one of those little missles around the track!
I agree that this is the best r/c racing class. I wonder why so many other people don't race 1/12? They probably just don't see how much fun it is .
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Old 07-03-2003, 12:59 PM   #3303
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David R,

What wght. oil do you run in your center shock with the red and copper springs?

Thanks,
Eric
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Old 07-03-2003, 01:54 PM   #3304
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Quote:
Originally posted by racerdx6
I agree that this is the best r/c racing class. I wonder why so many other people don't race 1/12? They probably just don't see how much fun it is .
It's always had the reputation of being expensive, and extremely difficult. I find that 12thscale cars aren't that hard to drive, you just have to be more consistent than in most other forms of racing. I guess what I'm saying is a 12th scale car is easy to drive fast, but it isn't easy to drive the fastest times with.
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Old 07-03-2003, 01:56 PM   #3305
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Scotty won in 2002, however Michael Bruce was a very close second, and while the IRS car won this year, a pack of Corrallys was right behind him.
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Old 07-03-2003, 02:13 PM   #3306
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Fike,

I use 30 wt. Changing center spring or ANYTHING on the CK makes a big difference.

Racerdx6,

I ran my CK for 3 weeks in a row before I changed anything in the suspension. I found out the center spring is the thing that makes the difference. It took 3 races just to get used to the car. I was an off road racer until last year. Now I race 1/10 pan against TCs, and of course off road gas and electric. Not much 1/12 in the summer here, OK none. I take it to the on road races and practice with it hoping a few will bring theirs.

Racing 1/12 has helped me in ALL classes.

Pan cars Kick a$$

David Root
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Old 07-03-2003, 03:31 PM   #3307
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David,

you don't find the car to be too springy with that light weight of oil?

It's always seemed to me that a stiffer spring would require a hevier oil to help control the spring rate of the spring.

Eric F
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Old 07-03-2003, 07:56 PM   #3308
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I find the stiffer the spring the more high speed steering I get. I also find more ON throttle steering. Its weight transfer. I have not tried to change the oil because they recomend 30 wt.

In my RC10L3, I tried 25 wt in the micro side shocks and it made it almost undriveable (reacted waaaay too fast) I went back to 30. The micro shock likes 30.

Stiff spring does not work on a bumpy track, the car bounces all over the place and "flies" off small bumps. A softer spring helps that and helps with rear traction. Basicly a softer spring calms the car down.

To me, the shock oil controls the time it takes for the weight transfer, the spring controls how much weight transfer. I think heavier oil would make the car sluggish.

Hope this helps
David Root
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Old 07-03-2003, 08:42 PM   #3309
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I run 60 wt, and the best way i can describe my car is sketchy. It is pretty twitchy, and it feels like its always drifting a little bit.

Im running quite a stiff rear end, its an L3, I have the thin t-plate, but I have 60 wt oil, an AE gold centre spring, and I put some preload in.
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Old 07-03-2003, 10:07 PM   #3310
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I dont really like dealing with rumors, but I did spot a statement on Trinity Tech Talk hinting at a 12L4 with damper tubes from AE this fall... anyone have any inside info on this or care to speculate?
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Old 07-03-2003, 10:24 PM   #3311
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All I can say is it's about time!!!!!!
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Old 07-03-2003, 11:38 PM   #3312
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do you think I'd be able to convert a l3 because I'm in the middle of buying one, and now I'm not sure if I should. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 07-04-2003, 01:03 AM   #3313
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Does anyone know who sells the Shooter's chassis online or what the Shooter's website is? I've been wanting to get my hands on one of them but cant find them. Thanks!
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Old 07-04-2003, 01:33 AM   #3314
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Default CRC centre springs

hey there
last season we ran the calandra car at the nats, and experimented with the spring/oil combination in the centre shock.

we started off with 25wt with a gold spring, this was very understeery, we worked up the scale until we got to red/copper, and the car started to handle

we then experimented with heavire oil, and lighter springs, we ran 100wt oil with a red spring, the car was very oversteery, so we worked our way down the scale, and settled on gold. at the euros, hubert honigle used a blue spring (1 step down from associated gold), but at the UK races, the gold spring woreged well.

we also changed the side springs, from white to red to green, we found white/ red springs (depending on track size, grip and type of corners) were the best springs for the sides, with 110wt oil in the sides.

it was a mystery to us why team crc and alot of other US racers use such hard springs with such little dampening, i.e. a crc stiff silver with like 20wt oil, how could you get away with that?

hope that helps

matt rice
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Old 07-04-2003, 05:40 AM   #3315
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AE said that they would not be doing an updated 12th scale, however if they did it would probably be the exact same thing as the IRS rugrat (which is basically a 12l3 with the batteries in the same direction as the shooters/yokomo chassis and damper tubes).

however for AE to release a new kit that doesnt sell much to begin with is rather pointless. its not like they are hurting at big races (blackstock and lonagran took down mod and stock 12th scale at the carpet nats a few months ago). and i know that a few factory drivers did infact use damper tubes on their cars at that race. the only push i could see for a new car would come from their factory guys, however i dont see that happening.
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