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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-09-2010, 10:09 AM   #33121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup View Post
get the tekin. the nice thing about it is that guys that purchased 18month ago still have no more investment then the guys that purchased it yesterday. all that ask recieved the latest and greatest speed sauce for FREE. and tekin is always developing. software came out in vegas and then another Jan 1. that is only 3 month between revisions.
+1

That is the main reason I bought Tekin as well. Much better value for money than other makes and if another one gets faster, the Tekin will be even quicker a little while later, and for free too!

It wasn't until after I bought one that I found out all the other good things about Tekin, like the people, the support, the team........ They are just as important as the speedo itself.

As for 1S LiPo, any 40 or 50 C with a capacity of 4900 or above will be as good as another for anything below mod. Driving better will make a bigger difference than the differences between LiPos. Big meetings one is enough, small meetings with not much time between heats two may be required.

Trev
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Old 01-09-2010, 12:46 PM   #33122
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Does this information sound right to y'all?

Parma and Jaco use the same wheel and the same foam to produce their 12th scale foam tires.

CRC uses their own wheel and a different manufacturer of foam. Some call this GRP foam, from Italy.

Are there any other companies to use the same foam as CRC, but mounted to a different rim?

I ask because I'm tired of the foam on the Jaco and param wheels peeling back. I can run a clean race and come back the edges are peeled. I tried CRC foams and ran them several times. I had several wrecks, board taps etc, and when all was said and done there was no peeling. he only problem was the wheels were more brittle and most broke before I could wear the foam down. I've never broken a Jaco rear wheel.

I'm basically looking to get the foam I like (CRC, or GRP?) on a durable wheel. Thanks for any help.

AWD

PS- If wanted to remove old foam from a rim, which solvent would you think would remove the foam from the wheel best? lol, you know where I am going with this.
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Last edited by andrewdoherty; 01-09-2010 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 01-09-2010, 01:56 PM   #33123
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Questions?? Hot Bodies C12 Mark 2 or 3

Hi!

Anyone use this bodies?
C12 Mark 2
http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=61731
or C12 Mark 3
http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=61732

?

Looking for info.

m.
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Old 01-09-2010, 01:59 PM   #33124
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
If wanted to remove old foam from a rim, which solvent would you think would remove the foam from the wheel best? lol, you know where I am going with this.
Acetone in a metal paint can, sealed and leave ovenight, foam falls right off. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area.

What is being used now to glue the new tires on the clean wheels? Is AJ's still available?
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Old 01-09-2010, 02:29 PM   #33125
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Manufacturers are using CA now to glue the foams on which is why acetone works. They used to use a contact cement type of glue which lacquer thinner worked to take the foam off. I find I can mount my own with contact cement and have less peeling if I sand the rims first...that is what is missing from current mounting procedures. Problem is the CRC rim melts in lacquer thinner...not sure if the Jaco rim would stand up either.

Andrew I've been looking for a good tire/rim alternative too...but still haven't found one. Been thinking on trying the ones on RC4Less but I'm not sure about how good their tire compounds are...and I'm not real fond of orange rims. But they do look sturdier. I've been wanting to try those Gecko tires but they are still donuts only and more expensive then mounted CRCs.
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Old 01-09-2010, 02:40 PM   #33126
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AWD,

For what it's worth, I've run both the Jaco Prism and the Parma Blackhawk back-to-back, same compounds, and had much better luck with the Blackhawks.

I ran 3 full race nights (that's 12 heats total) on the same pair of Blackhawks (Yellow Rear/Dbl Pink Front) with minimal chunking/peeling and then the first heat out with Jaco Prisms (Yellow Rear/Dbl Pink Front) the rears came back all chunked to crap !

I don't know if I just got lucky or if Parma uses a different gluing process than Jaco but I know a few others with similar experiences to mine with the Blackhawks.

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 01-09-2010, 02:52 PM   #33127
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Acetone in a metal paint can, sealed and leave ovenight, foam falls right off. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area.

What is being used now to glue the new tires on the clean wheels? Is AJ's still available?
I use to mount all of my own tires and always just used Weldwood contact cement. Put a coat on the rim and a coat on the inside of the tire. Let dry for 15 minutes and then dunk both in a pan of laquer thinner and slip the donut on the rim. Very easy to do and the contact cement works way better than whatever is being used today by the mfg's. Be carefull of the CRC rims and lacquer thinner though.

One thing I have noticed is that the larger you run the newer tires, the easier it is to peel or chunk one. I typically cut my rears down to 43mm to start and have very few problems. The orange rears do hold up better than the yellow as they have yellow foam on the inside for forward traction and grey foam on the outter rim for durability and to free the car up in the corner a little.
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Old 01-09-2010, 03:06 PM   #33128
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AWD,

For what it's worth, I've run both the Jaco Prism and the Parma Blackhawk back-to-back, same compounds, and had much better luck with the Blackhawks.

I ran 3 full race nights (that's 12 heats total) on the same pair of Blackhawks (Yellow Rear/Dbl Pink Front) with minimal chunking/peeling and then the first heat out with Jaco Prisms (Yellow Rear/Dbl Pink Front) the rears came back all chunked to crap !

I don't know if I just got lucky or if Parma uses a different gluing process than Jaco but I know a few others with similar experiences to mine with the Blackhawks.

Cheers,
Mike
My Blackhawks pealed just the same as my Jacos and had problems with the front bearings being loose. From my understanding Jaco makes the Blackhawks for Parma so the process would be the same.
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Old 01-09-2010, 03:16 PM   #33129
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Thanks for the info guys!

What does glueing the sidewalls on the tires do? Reduce traction or sidewall flex?
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Old 01-09-2010, 03:55 PM   #33130
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I use to mount all of my own tires and always just used Weldwood contact cement. Put a coat on the rim and a coat on the inside of the tire. Let dry for 15 minutes and then dunk both in a pan of laquer thinner and slip the donut on the rim. Very easy to do and the contact cement works way better than whatever is being used today by the mfg's. Be carefull of the CRC rims and lacquer thinner though.

One thing I have noticed is that the larger you run the newer tires, the easier it is to peel or chunk one. I typically cut my rears down to 43mm to start and have very few problems. The orange rears do hold up better than the yellow as they have yellow foam on the inside for forward traction and grey foam on the outter rim for durability and to free the car up in the corner a little.
I agree. larger diameter tires peel easier. I wish we had the traction to allow me to run a tire that starts at that size. I'll keep looking, thanks. Anyone know if you can get donuts of the yellow or grey-low foam CRC is currently using?
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Old 01-09-2010, 04:33 PM   #33131
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What does glueing the sidewalls on the tires do? Reduce traction or sidewall flex?

What company makes Orange Foams?
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Old 01-09-2010, 04:40 PM   #33132
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Originally Posted by JustMe2 View Post
What does glueing the sidewalls on the tires do? Reduce traction or sidewall flex?

What company makes Orange Foams?
Both. Glueing the sidewall keeps the foam from grabbing as much which will reduce side bite a little. Can help if you are near a traction roll condition. If your car is already loose, this won't help any. Glueing also helps keep the foam from peeling as much too.

Parma and Jaco both have the orange compound.
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Old 01-09-2010, 04:42 PM   #33133
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi!

Anyone use this bodies?
C12 Mark 2
http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=61731
or C12 Mark 3
http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=61732

?

Looking for info.

m.
Those bodies actually pre-date the HPI buyout of the original Hot Bodies company, based out of New Jersey. They Mark 2 is the HB Toyota GT-1, very similar in handling to the Protoform Nissan P-35, The Mark 3 is the HB Nissan NPT '91 which handled similarly to the Associated Nissan NPT body. Compared to the modern Proto, Parma, and Black ART bodies the HB shells would be lacking in downforce.
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Old 01-09-2010, 04:49 PM   #33134
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tire peeling has become quite a problem in 1/12th scale racing lately. I find that it's not so much the rubber coming unglued from the wheel as the rubber ripping off the wheel. For some reason this peeling problem seems more pronounced since the switch to larger diameter wheels. Yellow rears seem the worst for peeling. But all the compounds share the same issue. Anybody who finds a reliable way to overcome this issue and shares the knowledge would surely become an instant hero to a great many racers. And any company who came to market with a tire that wouldn't peel and would still run the competitive lap times.......they would quickly earn the lion's share of the market. Everybody seems to be struggling with keeping the tires on the wheels these days.
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:10 PM   #33135
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For the peeling issue I have found that "safety Gluing" the sidewalls of the rear tires works well just don't get it up too high. and you have to re-apply often to keep it strong.
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