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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-08-2010, 02:14 PM   #33106
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real quick, with the TQ booster, 13.5 tekin esc, do i have to remove any wires from the esc to the reciever, thanks, it says the red wire, in the tq instructions, but i thought i read somewhere with the tekin, no wires had to be removed, thanks guys

tommy
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:36 PM   #33107
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
No, I know it seems like it would be that way but it's the opposite. Just like moving the batteries forward makes the car more settled, same with motor. Plus moving the motor closer to the pivot point in effect will reduce unsprung weight.
Are you sure? The fulcrum for the pod weight is the rear tyres. The closer the motor is to the rear tyres, the more weight is over them, and the less is placed on the centre spring.

Imagine the motor was behind the axle - it would try to lift the spring! The closer the motor is to the axle, the less it bears on the centre spring. The unsprung weight is the same wherever the motor is, as the whole rear pod is not sprung. The motor position affects the weight transferred, not the unsprung weight.

Moving the motor forward would reduce the pendulum effect, reduce the leverage on the centre spring (it's closer to the pivot) but have no effect on the (static) unsprung weight. I think it's the reduction in weight transfer from a forward motor position that makes the car more settled in this case. Just my 2c...
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:59 PM   #33108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Are you sure? The fulcrum for the pod weight is the rear tyres. The closer the motor is to the rear tyres, the more weight is over them, and the less is placed on the centre spring.

Imagine the motor was behind the axle - it would try to lift the spring! The closer the motor is to the axle, the less it bears on the centre spring. The unsprung weight is the same wherever the motor is, as the whole rear pod is not sprung. The motor position affects the weight transferred, not the unsprung weight.

Moving the motor forward would reduce the pendulum effect, reduce the leverage on the centre spring (it's closer to the pivot) but have no effect on the (static) unsprung weight. I think it's the reduction in weight transfer from a forward motor position that makes the car more settled in this case. Just my 2c...
The fulcrum is the pivot, the tires are where the force of going over bumps is applied.

Imagine the motor was centered right over the pivot. A bump pushing the rear axle up would not have to push the motor up at all. Therefore, the motor's weight is seen by the bump (so to speak) through the spring. If the motor was centered above the rear axle, a bump would be pushing up on the entire weight of the motor. The motor would move the same amount as the wheels and therefore be unsprung.

Read your own statement: "The closer the motor is to the axle, the less it bears on the centre spring."

Yes, and is why it is called "unsprung weight" because it's forces are not being controlled by the spring. The farther it is from the axle (closer to the pivot) the more of it's weight it being applied to the rear axle through the spring and is therefore "sprung" weight.

Look at independent suspensions. When calculating unsprung weight, anything that moves 100% with the tire like spindles is all unsprung weight. The control arm itself is only partially unsprung since one end moves with the tire (unsprung) but the other end is mounted to the chassis (sprung). Typically you would calculate this by just saying half the weight of the arm was sprung and half unsprung. But now, put a big weight on the arm. If that weight is over the outer ball joint, it will move with the tire and therefore be unsprung. If it's mounted over the pivot, it moves with the chassis and is therefore sprung. anywhere in between and it would be both in different proportions depending on location.
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Old 01-08-2010, 03:26 PM   #33109
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Take a look at this diagram and notice how some components (like the shock and spring) are only partially unsprung weight and that the proportion is dependent on their location on the control arm. It's all about the motion ratio.

http://books.google.com/books?id=cr4...weight&f=false
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Old 01-08-2010, 03:59 PM   #33110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyBlazin View Post
real quick, with the TQ booster, 13.5 tekin esc, do i have to remove any wires from the esc to the reciever, thanks, it says the red wire, in the tq instructions, but i thought i read somewhere with the tekin, no wires had to be removed, thanks guys

tommy
no,just plug it in
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Old 01-08-2010, 06:03 PM   #33111
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thanks bro...
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Old 01-08-2010, 11:51 PM   #33112
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I just bought a Speedmerchant 4.5 and wasn't able to find a thread on here that covers just that car. Seeing that it has been about 20 years since I ran 1/12th, I got back into it due to a new track opening soon, but haven't run yet. Just going to be racing locally for the first year with my 11 y/o. Hopeing I might be able to get some answers on here.

I contacted Bruce for set up info, which he replied quickly on.

What about electronics? Do I need to spend the money to get the Tekin RS or will a GTB 4 cell work fine for racing? What about batteries? Please feel free to make suggestions.

Thanks.
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Old 01-09-2010, 02:33 AM   #33113
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This week IS all about the Tekin, till it gets beat. Then it will be 'that' one
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:00 AM   #33114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustMe2 View Post
I just bought a Speedmerchant 4.5 and wasn't able to find a thread on here that covers just that car. Seeing that it has been about 20 years since I ran 1/12th, I got back into it due to a new track opening soon, but haven't run yet. Just going to be racing locally for the first year with my 11 y/o. Hopeing I might be able to get some answers on here.

I contacted Bruce for set up info, which he replied quickly on.

What about electronics? Do I need to spend the money to get the Tekin RS or will a GTB 4 cell work fine for racing? What about batteries? Please feel free to make suggestions.

Thanks.
get the tekin. the nice thing about it is that guys that purchased 18month ago still have no more investment then the guys that purchased it yesterday. all that ask recieved the latest and greatest speed sauce for FREE. and tekin is always developing. software came out in vegas and then another Jan 1. that is only 3 month between revisions.

battery wise, I would pick the latest and greatest. lipos last much better then the round cells of the past. you only need 1.
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Old 01-09-2010, 06:15 AM   #33115
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The Tekin is the best way to go ++

As for batteries go. Figure out if you want a deans connector or banana plug battery. I like the banana plug because it looks much cleaner but you have to be sure to never plug them in reverse or your esc is toast.
As for latest and greatest battery is better. I am not sold on that. Just buy name brand and stay away from cheap China made ones
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:27 AM   #33116
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For batteries I run these, for $38.99 you can't go wrong!
http://www.promatchracing.com/prodde...prod=1S500040C
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:44 AM   #33117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen10 View Post
The Tekin is the best way to go ++

As for batteries go. Figure out if you want a deans connector or banana plug battery. I like the banana plug because it looks much cleaner but you have to be sure to never plug them in reverse or your esc is toast.
As for latest and greatest battery is better. I am not sold on that. Just buy name brand and stay away from cheap China made ones
The best way to avoid the reverse polarity plug in with bananas is to make the wires the exact length from the ESC to reach the battery. Say the - is closest, then make the wire just reach it so it will be too short to plug into the + terminal.
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:44 AM   #33118
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Are those ProMatch batteries Roar legal? If not, might be worth the extra bucks depending on where you race to get some that are...
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:51 AM   #33119
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Originally Posted by Ffejdat View Post
Are those ProMatch batteries Roar legal? If not, might be worth the extra bucks depending on where you race to get some that are...
Pro-Match batteries are great but I don't think they're on the ROAR list yet. Best is to check the latest ROAR regs.
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Old 01-09-2010, 09:44 AM   #33120
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Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
The best way to avoid the reverse polarity plug in with bananas is to make the wires the exact length from the ESC to reach the battery. Say the - is closest, then make the wire just reach it so it will be too short to plug into the + terminal.
+1
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