R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-03-2010, 04:30 AM   #33076
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 19
Questions?? Asso Rc125.1 front suspension ??

Hi
I do have a probl with my suspension on Asso RC125.1. When building the front suspension it felt good but when i have driven now for 3-4 hours it seems like the front susp springs has been compressed and there is a space
between spring and front lower arm/ball. Which results in a play which affect suspension travel. On the CRC car there is no gap ....

Do you have any solution to this ?? i now that i can put shims but then i get less travel in susp, compressed springs-> harder springs...

Last edited by hans_swe; 01-03-2010 at 04:38 AM. Reason: text
hans_swe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2010, 06:12 AM   #33077
Tech Fanatic
 
Ffejdat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 904
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Front Assoc springs are a consumable item, like tires! You can just shim them up, or replace them, some of the slop develops with new parts as they wear in a little, the plastic pivot balls wear a little, then stay that way for a long time. You shuold be OK just shimming, not losing much travel that way, still more than enough travel there, most people I know also replace Assoc front springs quite often, especially the .018 size.
__________________
Ahhhh, I could'a got a falcon!
Ffejdat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2010, 06:20 AM   #33078
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

All springs will do this, some just do it more than others! It is the natural process of the metal work-hardening. After they have shortened a little, they will stay like that until they are either broken (never seen one) or they get hard due to further action of the work-hardening process. Shim them up, they will be fine.

Springs that don't do this are made from a better quality material, but that does not mean they are better quality springs for racing use! Confusing the two is what makes people do odd things that they think are helping, but actually are not helping at all!! HTH
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2010, 07:07 AM   #33079
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 405
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

What kind of rollout are you guys running in 1/12? I will be running a 10.5 on 1s but just looking to get some ideas where to start. Thanks
__________________
VORRA; www.RVAHobbies.com; www.ashfordhobby.com; www.tqwire.com
bgrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2010, 07:11 AM   #33080
oze
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Budapest, Hungary
Posts: 142
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bgrick View Post
What kind of rollout are you guys running in 1/12? I will be running a 10.5 on 1s but just looking to get some ideas where to start. Thanks
Somewhere between 60 and 75 mm. Depends on many things like track size, esc setup, driving style, etc.
oze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2010, 08:11 AM   #33081
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 405
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Thanks oze that gives me a range to figur out what gears I need to buy.
__________________
VORRA; www.RVAHobbies.com; www.ashfordhobby.com; www.tqwire.com
bgrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2010, 09:01 PM   #33082
Tech Fanatic
 
jammincrtjames's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: GA
Posts: 969
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

This is most likely a stupid question but...

Assuming the same rollout for 2 different size tires, for example;

47mm tire and a 42mm tire, will both tire sizes yield the same acceleration? I would think the smaller size tire would provide for more initial rip as opposed to the larger tire size. Is this correct?
__________________
NEXUS RACING www.nexusracing.com | FANTOM RACING www.fantomracing.com
ORCA www.orcarc.com | TURTLE TRAX / www.turtletraxraceway.com
--------------------------------------------------
"If you're not first...you're last!"
jammincrtjames is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 03:56 AM   #33083
Tech Master
 
GasGod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tween a Rock & a Hard Place in Pa.
Posts: 1,259
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Tire size is a factor in determining rollout--
but givin the same spur and pinion --the smaller dia. tire would give better accel-due to lower rollout.
__________________
F! Metal Militia,VTA NATION--Team SloMoFo
losi 8t,mbx5t,rc8
rc8,Kyosho rb5,SCR
ft4 MT wallet
cyclone;xxx-s;x-rayT2;crc gen xl;bmi 12rrl
GasGod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 04:07 AM   #33084
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jammincrtjames View Post
This is most likely a stupid question but...

Assuming the same rollout for 2 different size tires, for example;

47mm tire and a 42mm tire, will both tire sizes yield the same acceleration? I would think the smaller size tire would provide for more initial rip as opposed to the larger tire size. Is this correct?
given the same roll out the smaller tire will accelerate faster due to it being lighter.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 07:44 AM   #33085
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

The smaller tyres may 'go off' quicker as well, due to them effectively having to travel further.
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 02:26 PM   #33086
Tech Champion
 
danjoy25's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,126
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default 1s setup with external receiver pack?

Question to anyone running an external receiver pack (7.4 lipo etc).

Do you guys still plug all 3 esc wires (Red, White & Black) in the receiver when running a external receiver pack? or do you not plug the RED.

Thanks in advance.
__________________
Top Racing Photon EX / Mugen MTX-5 / Tamiya M05 / 3 Racing FGX & F113 / Kyosho RB5

Western Zydney Racers (Mini-Z Racing in the west)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/australian-racing/658918-1-28-scale-sydney-racing.html
danjoy25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 02:43 PM   #33087
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

just depends on the speedo. I can tell you that no wire needs to be removed for the tekin
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 02:44 PM   #33088
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 904
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by danjoy25 View Post
Question to anyone running an external receiver pack (7.4 lipo etc).

Do you guys still plug all 3 esc wires (Red, White & Black) in the receiver when running a external receiver pack? or do you not plug the RED.

Thanks in advance.
I beleive that the KO says to remove the red wire from the receiver but the Tekin does not.
SteveL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 03:23 PM   #33089
Tech Regular
 
kawirider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 319
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

steve, you know i broke the prostrut carrier on the genxl last weekend in our eventful main? i put on the IRS front end i have like yours.
__________________
Associated T4, CRC Gen XL, Associated 10R5 WGT, jconcepts BJ4

Josh Evans
kawirider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 10:28 PM   #33090
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: lost...
Posts: 2,825
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

What is the performance difference between using 78spur/40pinion and 88spur/45pinion, both having fdt of 1.95?
RoyU is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (1 members and 2 guests)
Boomer
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:53 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0