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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-27-2009, 08:19 AM   #33031
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Originally Posted by Andy Davis View Post
Guys just got a 12r5.1 today. Ill be running 2 med to high bite asphalt tracks. Anyone have a setup or where to start on tires, center shock spring lbs and oil, front springs lbs. Any help is greatly appreciated, Thanks.
Get Juho's or Masaki's worlds setup from the AE site. If you search online you can probably find the Yokomo tires they used. The box stock setup should be pretty good for asphalt.
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:28 AM   #33032
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Get Juho's or Masaki's worlds setup from the AE site. If you search online you can probably find the Yokomo tires they used. The box stock setup should be pretty good for asphalt.
Heh, as far as I know you wont be able to find the tires those 2 guys were using at the Worlds. If anybody else had them, they wouldn't be lapping all the rest of the field. You could get them only if you are a very close friend to Mr. Masami
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Old 12-27-2009, 11:36 AM   #33033
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Hello and Happy Holidays to all. I just finished putting my first 12r5 kit together and I have some questions, if anyone can help I would appreciate it. First, do I need to get the bubbles out or anything like that with these shocks; they donít have a bladder like the TC car shocks do so Iím a bit confused. Second, for the front kit came with bunch of spacers for the ride height adjustment; are the spacers and truing the tires the only way for the height adjustment. Also is there a way to adjust the height for the back. Right now with all the electronics minus the speed control cars height is 4mm all around. Last question that I have is I need to get some 64P Pinions what sizes should I start with.

Thanks, Tiko
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Old 12-27-2009, 11:54 AM   #33034
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
EDIT: it seems Trev has an idea what they may be comparable to ^
Hey, no secret, it's on the GenX editable setup sheet!

Trev
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Old 12-27-2009, 06:38 PM   #33035
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Originally Posted by tiko View Post
Hello and Happy Holidays to all. I just finished putting my first 12r5 kit together and I have some questions, if anyone can help I would appreciate it. First, do I need to get the bubbles out or anything like that with these shocks; they don’t have a bladder like the TC car shocks do so I’m a bit confused. Second, for the front kit came with bunch of spacers for the ride height adjustment; are the spacers and truing the tires the only way for the height adjustment. Also is there a way to adjust the height for the back. Right now with all the electronics minus the speed control cars height is 4mm all around. Last question that I have is I need to get some 64P Pinions what sizes should I start with.
First, do I need to get the bubbles out or anything like that with these shocks; they don’t have a bladder like the TC car shocks do so I’m a bit confused. By moving the piston up and down you "should" be able to work any bubbles out of the shock body. Someone else can chime in on this..

Second, for the front kit came with bunch of spacers for the ride height adjustment; are the spacers and truing the tires the only way for the height adjustment. The front suspension shims should be able to adjust your front suspension precisely. On the 12R5, AE includes I believe a .5, 1, 2mm shim. Keep those, they work quite well. I do recommend picking up a extra set just in case. Basically by truing your tires and adding, subtracting shims this is on the only way to adjust front ride height. We'll explain rear ride height next.. AE part # ASC4617

Also is there a way to adjust the height for the back. Right now with all the electronics minus the speed control cars height is 4mm all around.
Adjusting rear ride height is a breeze. Grab yourself a set of IRS adjustable rear axle pod adjusters its a set of 10, working from 0-8 in .5 increments. Simply pop out, replace with desired ride height, reassemble and off you go! Worth the $8-10 dollars, investment worthwhile to have. IRS1167

Hope that helps you, you'll need to specific if your running brushed, brushless, NIMH or Lipos for gearing inquires. Might be best to ask around your track first, here we'll get you close to what is ideal.
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Old 12-27-2009, 07:59 PM   #33036
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Happy to report that my lipo/t-bar conversion worked very well. Better than expected actually. Made some battery locators that riase the pack so that it goes over the t-bar and raised the shock front and rear to keep the angle.

Below are some pics of the battery locators that I made so those that want to do the same, can. Started with aluminum t-track and machined the recess for the pack and drilled and taped mounting holes. Last midification may be something to use an o-ring instead of tape. No need for a saddle pack any more!






Last edited by SteveL; 12-27-2009 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:37 PM   #33037
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Happy to report that my lipo/t-bar conversion worked very well. Better than expected actually. Made some battery locators that riase the pack so that it goes over the t-bar and raised the shock front and rear to keep the angle. I will try to post some pics of the battery locators that I made so those that want to do the same, can. No need for a saddle pack any more!

Nice! I would love to do the same to my RugRat.
I was having decent luck with the lipo on one side and the speedo/rec/2 ounces of lead on the other.
Other than weighing in at 830 grams.

I just bought a CRC Gen XL so I'm anxious to see how it compare laptime wise to my rugrat. I guess I can try your trick if the CRC doesn't work out!
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:48 PM   #33038
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Nice! I would love to do the same to my RugRat.
I was having decent luck with the lipo on one side and the speedo/rec/2 ounces of lead on the other.
Other than weighing in at 830 grams.

I just bought a CRC Gen XL so I'm anxious to see how it compare laptime wise to my rugrat. I guess I can try your trick if the CRC doesn't work out!
Thanks. I am trying to figure out a way to semi mass produce them for others. I had two at the track today ask if I could make them some. Problem will be figuring out the mounting method as each brand of car will have different requirements. The rug-rat is easy as that is what I'm running.
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Old 12-27-2009, 10:50 PM   #33039
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Originally Posted by Team Speedy View Post
First, do I need to get the bubbles out or anything like that with these shocks; they donít have a bladder like the TC car shocks do so Iím a bit confused. By moving the piston up and down you "should" be able to work any bubbles out of the shock body. Someone else can chime in on this..

Second, for the front kit came with bunch of spacers for the ride height adjustment; are the spacers and truing the tires the only way for the height adjustment. The front suspension shims should be able to adjust your front suspension precisely. On the 12R5, AE includes I believe a .5, 1, 2mm shim. Keep those, they work quite well. I do recommend picking up a extra set just in case. Basically by truing your tires and adding, subtracting shims this is on the only way to adjust front ride height. We'll explain rear ride height next.. AE part # ASC4617

Also is there a way to adjust the height for the back. Right now with all the electronics minus the speed control cars height is 4mm all around.
Adjusting rear ride height is a breeze. Grab yourself a set of IRS adjustable rear axle pod adjusters its a set of 10, working from 0-8 in .5 increments. Simply pop out, replace with desired ride height, reassemble and off you go! Worth the $8-10 dollars, investment worthwhile to have. IRS1167

Hope that helps you, you'll need to specific if your running brushed, brushless, NIMH or Lipos for gearing inquires. Might be best to ask around your track first, here we'll get you close to what is ideal.
Hey Team Speedy, thanks for the reply I really appreciate the feedback you did answer all my questions. As for the gearing I plan on using an LRP X11 17.5 BL motor and a 1S Lipo. Track that I plan on practicing and hopefully racing is indoor asphalt with very high grip. If Iím not mistaken it is 75x100 dimensions.
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Old 12-28-2009, 07:20 AM   #33040
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Hey Team Speedy, thanks for the reply I really appreciate the feedback you did answer all my questions. As for the gearing I plan on using an LRP X11 17.5 BL motor and a 1S Lipo. Track that I plan on practicing and hopefully racing is indoor asphalt with very high grip. If Iím not mistaken it is 75x100 dimensions.
Start with a rollout of 70-80mm and adjust from there.

Your tire selection will be the primary decision you need to make before you fine tune the gearing. If you can't lay down the power than it makes no difference how it's geared.

I found that as long as your within the same gearing as everyone else it will come down to tire and tweak tuning.
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:20 AM   #33041
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@ Steve L: aside from spacing the battery higher, did you modify/clearance anything else to get it to fit without heaving it way up in the air? Any issues with body clearance? Thanks!
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:35 AM   #33042
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Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
@ Steve L: aside from spacing the battery higher, did you modify/clearance anything else to get it to fit without heaving it way up in the air? Any issues with body clearance? Thanks!
If you look at the pics, you will see that the t-bar ball cups need to be shaved slightly unless you want to have the battery WAY up in the air. The shock mounts need to be raised slightly to clear the battery and yes, there are some clearance issues with the body. I ended up making a couple of small bubbles in the body to clear the front edge of the pack on the right side and the front battery post on the left. The battery sits 6mm above the chassis and as the lipo packs are a lot lighter than Nimh, I doubt that the center of gravity is much higher, if at all.
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Old 12-28-2009, 11:00 AM   #33043
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SteveL - Nice job on the Lipo Lifter!!

There's a way to get the t-bar lower, but you'll be sacrificing the strength of the t-bar. You can countersink the 2-56 holes (4 holes around ball cup) one the underside of the t-bar and then use countersunk 2-56 screws. For the balls just use a ball with no lip on it and use a very thin spacer or none at all. This will give you more rear grip, but I'm sure you can adjust the car for it. I'm thinking you might be able to get a mm or two out of it so you don't have to bubble your bodies.
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Old 12-28-2009, 01:53 PM   #33044
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Just getting into 1/12 scale racing, going to hit up the track ill be running at (horsham) this sat to get a feel and see what setup recommendations i can get.

Just looking for a setup guide for 1/12 scale, ie: what to adjust when how procedure etc. Havent been able to find anything concrete.

Ill be running a Gen X with 1s and 27T brushed to start, with a Tekin RS system to follow shortly after. Any good set up guides for this car?

I'm not new to racing been running 1/8 truggy for quite awhile now, just looking for another class to run during the winter\

Thanks for any help
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:52 PM   #33045
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Originally Posted by scatterbrains View Post
Just getting into 1/12 scale racing, going to hit up the track ill be running at (horsham) this sat to get a feel and see what setup recommendations i can get.

Just looking for a setup guide for 1/12 scale, ie: what to adjust when how procedure etc. Havent been able to find anything concrete.

Ill be running a Gen X with 1s and 27T brushed to start, with a Tekin RS system to follow shortly after. Any good set up guides for this car?

I'm not new to racing been running 1/8 truggy for quite awhile now, just looking for another class to run during the winter\

Thanks for any help
These should be a good read for you:

http://richardchang.com/hobby.php?topic=112setup

http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

http://www.rc411.com/pages/howto.php?howto=2&page=1

http://www.swiftracingproducts.com/Page.cfm?InfoID=5192

http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/?page_id=65
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