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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-21-2009, 07:41 PM   #32986
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Default Greetings

Satich- Hope all is well.
AreCee- Merrrrrrry XMas buddy! Good seeing you/hanging at the IHobby. I'll prolly never be a crawler guy, but you guys did an impressive job. Hope to rub some paint before winters over. How's the Grex treating you? Very impressive tools those guys have.
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Old 12-21-2009, 08:14 PM   #32987
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Default THANKS :)

Just want to say a big thanks to all who pm'd and posted. THink I got this thing down pat.

Only thing setting i am getting mixed comments about is with the Max Charged Capacity setting at the bottom. Some say 50% some 100, 110.

So far I am not having any problems. I check the temp of the lipo regularly, and all is well.

Currently it is set at 6000, charging at 6amps with 50% max charge capacity.

Thanks again everyone, and have a great holiday

s
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Old 12-21-2009, 08:31 PM   #32988
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Crank that max capacity up to 100% I don't get why they have over 100%? If it's 100%, thats all you get.Don't bother tempting, it'll tell you it's hot. Simultaniously, it'll ignite. These settings are working well for me.
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:00 PM   #32989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamCarnage View Post
Satich- Hope all is well.
AreCee- Merrrrrrry XMas buddy! Good seeing you/hanging at the IHobby. I'll prolly never be a crawler guy, but you guys did an impressive job. Hope to rub some paint before winters over. How's the Grex treating you? Very impressive tools those guys have.
That compressor is sweet. Quiet and pressure on demand. I used it to paint a couple 1/12 bodies and 1/8 buggy bodies.

I found electric 1/8 off-road and love it, got a Hot Bodies Ve8/D8 Tekno Frankenstein but it works. Going to LH Sunday to play in the dirt and Jtec on the first for 1/12.

I still can't race up north for particular reasons I have. Miss big guy, always has been fun racing a gentleman like you.
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:11 PM   #32990
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I get to run with Sean Cochran, Eli Ezrow, Jimmy Piersol and Skip Starkey this Sunday so I should find out if the car is any good or not. If I can stay on the same lap, it will be a huge step in the right direction.[/QUOTE]


Hey Steve - tell the old farts listed above that Doc Holiday said to go easy on you!!! Been years since I saw those guys - miss racing in the midwest!!!
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Old 12-22-2009, 09:25 AM   #32991
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The Reedy 4600 Lipo instructions say you can charge at up to 2C. Never felt comfortable pushing it that far but have had no problems charging at 5 amps. I donít think 6 amps would be problem either.

As far as a reason to discharge, I do mine periodically on a CBA just to verify battery condition.

About a week ago I had the opportunity to compare 2 older 4600's with 4 new ones. The voltage graphs almost made one line when overlaid using a 10 amp discharge. The only difference was in total discharge time with the older batteries being short by about 20 seconds. I was impressed considering both of the older packs have been run up to 6 times in one day, several times.

Ed M.
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Old 12-23-2009, 04:15 AM   #32992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
I used 100/23 with a 4t. So i reckon around a 26 or 27. You really have to play around with gearing in mod. its hard to find the sweet spot with 1s lipo, but when you do youll know. I was also using large tires.

Hope this helps,

Antoni
hey, i've bought the stuff for lipo, but haven't done any real proper testing yet.

What diamater were your rear tyres?

Cheers
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Old 12-23-2009, 05:15 AM   #32993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivingpro View Post
hey, i've bought the stuff for lipo, but haven't done any real proper testing yet.

What diamater were your rear tyres?

Cheers
50mm
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:45 AM   #32994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
I have both the M300RSX and RSW.

I've been looking for a new parts supplier for these cars. In the past I used to get it from Rotor in Singapore but they don't list Kawada parts anymore. Does anyone know where I can get Kawada parts for the M300 on the web?

I'm specifically looking to get the new Link-sus conversion for the RSX so I can use the 1s Lipo.

Any help would appreciated.

Thanks.
D-Drivesports has Kawada 1/12 parts in stock but they are not on the english website. send them an e-mail.
www.d-drivesportsenglish.com
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:03 PM   #32995
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anybody know if the standard servo saver that comes with the 12r 5.1 will work with a Futaba servo?
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:07 PM   #32996
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If it is grey or kinda a tanish white it is for airtronics and JR. If it is white its for Futaba. Usually AE cars come with the Kimbro servo saver.
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:19 PM   #32997
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Originally Posted by jammincrtjames View Post
anybody know if the standard servo saver that comes with the 12r 5.1 will work with a Futaba servo?
Standard one does not work with a Futaba.
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:36 PM   #32998
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Originally Posted by bakaguyjean View Post
D-Drivesports has Kawada 1/12 parts in stock but they are not on the english website. send them an e-mail.
www.d-drivesportsenglish.com
Thank you very much for the link and info.
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:46 PM   #32999
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Default Left hub

Hello,

I am looking for a left Hub for my Gen X. But I would like 1 that is not from CRC, are there any companies that make them, I would just rather not have the leight weight kind. I find the CRC ones strip. Maybe Im tightenng it too much?

But anyway, who else makes a good one for the 1/4 in dif?

Thanks in Advance?

Satish
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:48 PM   #33000
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IRS makes hubs and axles...the IRS one seems to hold better for me, but it has a problem cracking where the clamping screw is. The CRC one doesn't seem to have that problem. But the one I did get didn't spin true.
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