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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-20-2009, 07:02 AM   #32971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesalex View Post
ok stupid question but, I am new to 12th and gt and am going lipo.

I will be running a 3.7v lipo and a reciver pack.

When I go about running it do I switch the speedcontroller on then connect reciever pack then plug the battery in.

or plug battery in plug reviever batery in the switch on, also I will be running a lrp spx stock spec speed controller what setting should I put it on to allow me to run 1c lipo????

Cheers
Depends on your ESC and its software. The Tekin has a setting with the Hotwire which sets it up for 1S. You have the option to leave it off and it won't monitor the 1S voltage or turn it on and the cutoff will function. This is with either a RX pack or Booster. I turn on my Tekin so the cutoff will be active for the 8 minute main. So far it hasn't cutoff.
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Old 12-20-2009, 07:13 PM   #32972
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Under ROAR rules, what is the maximum height for the roll over antenna? I can't seem to find it in the rule book.
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Old 12-20-2009, 10:36 PM   #32973
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Under ROAR rules, what is the maximum height for the roll over antenna? I can't seem to find it in the rule book.
35 Centimeters, measured from the ground. 2009 Rules Addendum, 8.10.3.9.
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Old 12-20-2009, 10:48 PM   #32974
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35 Centimeters, measured from the ground. 2009 Rules Addendum, 8.10.3.9.
Thanks
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Old 12-21-2009, 04:15 AM   #32975
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Originally Posted by PDX-Spike View Post
NEVER DISCHARGE A LIPO BATTERY!
Why not?
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Old 12-21-2009, 10:53 AM   #32976
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I said, "Never Discharge a LiPo Battery"

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastdude View Post
Why not?
Primarily, LiPo batteries are volatile and if used improperly may result in fire, personal injury and damage to property.

I have been using LiPo batteries for three years in my cars which I race on a regular basis. I have never discharged these batteries and have not noticed any degradation by using them without discharge.

I have not heard of or read about any benefit gained by discharging LiPo betteries. If I am misinformed about discharging LiPo batteries, please let me know.
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Old 12-21-2009, 11:55 AM   #32977
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Originally Posted by PDX-Spike View Post
I said, "Never Discharge a LiPo Battery"



Primarily, LiPo batteries are volatile and if used improperly may result in fire, personal injury and damage to property.

I have been using LiPo batteries for three years in my cars which I race on a regular basis. I have never discharged these batteries and have not noticed any degradation by using them without discharge.

I have not heard of or read about any benefit gained by discharging LiPo betteries. If I am misinformed about discharging LiPo batteries, please let me know.
Don't you discharge them everytime you plug them into your car to use?

I think what the poster was trying to say is to NEVER discharge below 3V/cell. You can cycle LiPo packs just like any other but it usually is unnecessary. Balance charge thenm and you're fine. Just use some common sense and a compatible charger.
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Old 12-21-2009, 12:57 PM   #32978
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The nice thing about 12th scale lipos - no balancing needed... Single cell has it's advantages.
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Old 12-21-2009, 01:04 PM   #32979
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REEDY 4600 LIPO 3.7v

Hello I have a question about charging this battery on a ICE charge

Does anyone know how I can charge it at say 6 amps? I can never get the pack to a full charge.

Last time I charged it at home it gave an error about time exceeded and stopped.

So I would like to know how I can increase the amps.

thanks,

Satish
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Old 12-21-2009, 01:35 PM   #32980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastdude View Post
Why not?
Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
Don't you discharge them everytime you plug them into your car to use?

I think what the poster was trying to say is to NEVER discharge below 3V/cell. You can cycle LiPo packs just like any other but it usually is unnecessary. Balance charge thenm and you're fine. Just use some common sense and a compatible charger.
Yeah, technically running the car is discharging the battery, but when the battery starts to fade, it should be shut off as soon as possible. A new user of LiPo batteries should be informed that running the battery until the car stops is not a good thing to do to a LiPo.

So, when is it necessary/beneficial/required to use an appropriate LiPo discharger to drop the voltage to 3 volts?
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Old 12-21-2009, 02:36 PM   #32981
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Originally Posted by Satish View Post
REEDY 4600 LIPO 3.7v

Hello I have a question about charging this battery on a ICE charge

Does anyone know how I can charge it at say 6 amps? I can never get the pack to a full charge.

Last time I charged it at home it gave an error about time exceeded and stopped.

So I would like to know how I can increase the amps.

thanks,

Satish
it has nothing to do with how many amps you are charging at. it has to do with your settings. you should only charge at 1c to avoid really ugly issues. when a lipo charges, it gets to a certain voltage, right at 5v if i remember right. then if you watch it, the current will start dropping untill it hits something like .1 amps. mine shuts i off there. once you reach that peak voltage, the battery is prolly only going to take like a few hundred more milliamps after that, it is essencially full. make sure the capacity is set corectly for the battery.
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Old 12-21-2009, 02:48 PM   #32982
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It is suggested to only charge at 1C, so in this case is would be 4.6A. The CC/CV charging profile raises the charging current to the configured charge current, holds it there until the pack reaches 4.2 v (for 1s), then holds the voltage constant and slowly drops the current until the battery is "full". This usually happens when the current is approximately 0.10 A. It takes a significant amount of time for the current to drop to 0.10 A after the pack reaches the max voltage. As long as you have the time, let it charge all the way.
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Old 12-21-2009, 04:01 PM   #32983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Satish View Post
REEDY 4600 LIPO 3.7v

Hello I have a question about charging this battery on a ICE charge

Does anyone know how I can charge it at say 6 amps? I can never get the pack to a full charge.

Last time I charged it at home it gave an error about time exceeded and stopped.

So I would like to know how I can increase the amps.

thanks,

Satish
I charge mine at 6 amps. You have to program the charger to think its a 6000 MhA. Its at the top of the menu- Lipo, 3.7v- 6000Mha
Hope I explained it right.
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Old 12-21-2009, 04:16 PM   #32984
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Satish. Sounds like your charger is hitting a mAh limit or a time limit. I am not familiar with the ICE but there should be an option to increase the mA limit or time limit. If you are charging at 3A lets say, then some chargers will stop charging when 3000mAh has been reached. The charger thinks the battery is 100% full even though the voltage is not to 4.2V.
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:08 PM   #32985
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Default ice setup

i use a couple of ices' to charge my batteries, charge them at 1c(4.6 amps in your case.) and at the bottom of the menu options set your charge capacity to 110%, that should get your batteries fully charged, and will help you avoid those messy overcharging messes.
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