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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-17-2009, 10:49 PM   #32956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
whoops! I meant it as more of a noodge than a slap
Not to worry, didn't leave a bruise. After trying a gazalion things tonight, I am back to a push which is good. I feel that I can make minor changes now to get it better, even though it's pretty good the way it is. Changes made tonight that helped were:

-Lengthen upper front arms
-Gluing the frt tire sidewalls
-Softer shock spring
-Magenta frt/Orange rear

Things that did not work:

-Magenta/Magenta (traction rolled)
-Thick damper tube lube (traction rolled)
-Take out most of the frt camber (pushed really bad)
-Black/Magenta or Orange only sausing the outside 1/4 instead of the inside (extremely twitchy)

Minor changes that should make it even better:

-Add a little camber
-Black frt (glued)/Orange or Yellow rear
-A little more steering throw (it's set at about a 4 1/2' circle now with 6' lanes)
-And maybe just a smidge of drag brake (just switching from brushed so it would help with timing. Yea, I know, you should never have drag brake in a 1/12 scale car, but I'm old and have earned it)

I get to run with Sean Cochran, Eli Ezrow, Jimmy Piersol and Skip Starkey this Sunday so I should find out if the car is any good or not. If I can stay on the same lap, it will be a huge step in the right direction.
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Old 12-18-2009, 11:57 AM   #32957
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Default Need Help For My Kawada M300RSX & RSW

I have both the M300RSX and RSW.

I've been looking for a new parts supplier for these cars. In the past I used to get it from Rotor in Singapore but they don't list Kawada parts anymore. Does anyone know where I can get Kawada parts for the M300 on the web?

I'm specifically looking to get the new Link-sus conversion for the RSX so I can use the 1s Lipo.

Any help would appreciated.

Thanks.
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Old 12-18-2009, 12:32 PM   #32958
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these batteries were slated to come out months ago, release has been pushed back over and over again. i wouldnt hokd my breath if i were you guys. maxamps told me they could make one right up if you want one.
so, steve, did you get that 8.7 lap you were looking for last nite?
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Here is the post with pics and a projected time frame.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/6715015-post160.html
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Old 12-19-2009, 10:28 AM   #32959
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Default SMC 3.7v LI-PO cells ?

Hi guys
I do have some problem with my SMC 3.7v LI-PO cells that i bought from rcmarket.hk.com. I did buy 3 cells and with 2 of them the car dump after 6min. I have LRP Sxx with 5.0t motor and LI-FE 6.6 reciever acc.
Does anyone experience the same problem ?? or maybe i have got 2 bad packs ??

I have charged them 7 times & discharged 1, charge with 1C & disch 10Amp
Both ch & disch is over 5000mah

// hans
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Old 12-19-2009, 11:23 AM   #32960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hans_swe View Post
Hi guys
I do have some problem with my SMC 3.7v LI-PO cells that i bought from rcmarket.hk.com. I did buy 3 cells and with 2 of them the car dump after 6min. I have LRP Sxx with 5.0t motor and LI-FE 6.6 reciever acc.
Does anyone experience the same problem ?? or maybe i have got 2 bad packs ??

I have charged them 7 times & discharged 1, charge with 1C & disch 10Amp
Both ch & disch is over 5000mah

// hans
NEVER DISCHARGE A LIPO BATTERY!

Are you using a LiPo-specific charger? You should be charging at 3.7 volts and 5.0 amps for a 5000ma battery.

I'm running a 13.5 motor with the SMC 5000 single-cell LiPo. In 8 minutes I'll use around 3300 ma. on a 100 x 60 carpet track.
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Old 12-19-2009, 03:32 PM   #32961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawirider View Post
these batteries were slated to come out months ago, release has been pushed back over and over again. i wouldnt hokd my breath if i were you guys. maxamps told me they could make one right up if you want one.
so, steve, did you get that 8.7 lap you were looking for last nite?
Nope, only a couple of 8.9's. It will get there, but as soon as it does, Drew will run an 8.5!
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Old 12-20-2009, 01:22 AM   #32962
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Hey guys, we are new in 12th scale racing and we race on asphalt on a low grip track. Got some questions if someone could answer them and give me son advise.
What is recommended for asphalt low grip, Tbar cars or link?]
What if the front tyres get beigger than rear tires... how will that affect the car handling?
How do you tweak a link car?
Cheers
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Old 12-20-2009, 02:30 AM   #32963
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Any know a good pinion staring point when running 96 spur, 5.5 brushless, with 3.7 1cell lipo. I am running high speed pave surface. THX
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Old 12-20-2009, 02:57 AM   #32964
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Originally Posted by hotdognobun View Post
Any know a good pinion staring point when running 96 spur, 5.5 brushless, with 3.7 1cell lipo. I am running high speed pave surface. THX
I used 100/23 with a 4t. So i reckon around a 26 or 27. You really have to play around with gearing in mod. its hard to find the sweet spot with 1s lipo, but when you do youll know. I was also using large tires.

Hope this helps,

Antoni
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Old 12-20-2009, 02:58 AM   #32965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
I used 100/23 with a 4t. So i reckon around a 26 or 27. i was also using large tires.

Hope this helps,

Antoni
Sounds great! Thx
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Old 12-20-2009, 03:02 AM   #32966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hans_swe View Post
Hi guys
I do have some problem with my SMC 3.7v LI-PO cells that i bought from rcmarket.hk.com. I did buy 3 cells and with 2 of them the car dump after 6min. I have LRP Sxx with 5.0t motor and LI-FE 6.6 reciever acc.
Does anyone experience the same problem ?? or maybe i have got 2 bad packs ??

I have charged them 7 times & discharged 1, charge with 1C & disch 10Amp
Both ch & disch is over 5000mah

// hans
Could it be your gearing possibly? I used a 4t at the Australian Nationals, with a booster and made run time. And the track was HUGE.. You could also try lowering your profile settings on the speedo. mine were 2-2-0-1.

+1 i wouldnt discharge a lipo. Just put enough power into them and store them till you next race.

Antoni
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Old 12-20-2009, 03:09 AM   #32967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ds400 View Post
Hey guys, we are new in 12th scale racing and we race on asphalt on a low grip track. Got some questions if someone could answer them and give me son advise.
What is recommended for asphalt low grip, Tbar cars or link?]
What if the front tyres get beigger than rear tires... how will that affect the car handling?
How do you tweak a link car?
Cheers
Ive heard that many like t-bar cars on asphalt, but it depends on your driving style. I prefer link, and most people do these days. Also lipo fits much easier in them, than t-bar cars.

i would personally NEVER run bigger tires on the front than the rear on asphalt. you want a really bid rear tire on low traction asphalt, so when you go around a corner there is more side bite and flex from the tire, therefore giving you more rear grip. if you run bigger front tires, i would say that the car would be very oversteery and have limited rear traction. I have never done it so idm not sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotdognobun View Post
Sounds great! Thx
No worries. hope its fast
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Old 12-20-2009, 04:24 AM   #32968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Could it be your gearing possibly? I used a 4t at the Australian Nationals, with a booster and made run time. And the track was HUGE.. You could also try lowering your profile settings on the speedo. mine were 2-2-0-1.

+1 i wouldnt discharge a lipo. Just put enough power into them and store them till you next race.

Antoni
I did run with the same rollout with the 3 cells to have something to compare with.
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Old 12-20-2009, 04:44 AM   #32969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hans_swe View Post
I did run with the same rollout with the 3 cells to have something to compare with.
4 cell? Depending on your track size i would start with a rollout around the 41mm range.. if need be go higher and start gearing for run time. Its better to be a little bit slower and make run time, than go full blaze and crawl home.. Which you cant do with lipo or you will drop it below the optimal voltage and damage the pack.

If this dosent work the battery may be damaged. But i would suggest muckng around with gearing first.

Antoni
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Old 12-20-2009, 04:54 AM   #32970
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ok stupid question but, I am new to 12th and gt and am going lipo.

I will be running a 3.7v lipo and a reciver pack.

When I go about running it do I switch the speedcontroller on then connect reciever pack then plug the battery in.

or plug battery in plug reviever batery in the switch on, also I will be running a lrp spx stock spec speed controller what setting should I put it on to allow me to run 1c lipo????

Cheers
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