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KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-16-2009, 11:53 AM   #32941
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what apex says sounds reasonable. if use some weight up front opposite the battery, it would stand to reason that it would even it out some. im gonna try that tomorrow nite.
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Old 12-16-2009, 12:24 PM   #32942
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Originally Posted by rosko View Post
anyone else waiting on the 1's saddle packs
I've got a couple ordered for my new touring car.
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Old 12-16-2009, 01:27 PM   #32943
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Originally Posted by Apex View Post
If your speed control only allows up to 6V to the receiver, then your fine. Otherwise, you'll have to run a receiver pack. I know IP and Epic have released a 6.6v LiFE receiver pack which is what I'm using and works great. No need for a voltage regulator either.
So if the receiver, like the airtronics, can only handle 6V and the operating voltage of the ESC is 6V, no receiver pack required, correct?

If the receiver can handle up to 7.4V but the ESC has again, an operating voltage of 6V, I need a receiver pack?

This is all assuming 1S Lipo. When using 2C lipo, the pack provides enough juice for the receiver, servo, and motor, no matter what the specs in voltage are for esc and receiver, correct?
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Old 12-16-2009, 02:07 PM   #32944
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Originally Posted by Dane View Post
So if the receiver, like the airtronics, can only handle 6V and the operating voltage of the ESC is 6V, no receiver pack required, correct?
For 1S you will still need a receiver pack or a booster to make sure the receiver and servo get 6V during your run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dane View Post
If the receiver can handle up to 7.4V but the ESC has again, an operating voltage of 6V, I need a receiver pack?
For 1S you will need a receiver pack or booster regardless of how much voltage your receiver can handle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dane View Post
This is all assuming 1S Lipo. When using 2C lipo, the pack provides enough juice for the receiver, servo, and motor, no matter what the specs in voltage are for esc and receiver, correct?
Correct.
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:54 PM   #32945
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Here are a couple pics of my 12R5 T bar car with the lipo over the Tbar I put this together last week, only got to run it 1 practice run, and parts of 3 qualifiers on Sunday as I was having radio issues, but it showed lots of promise of working well, this weekend will be a terue test as I got a new radio, and the track I will be at (MMR), will be high bite.
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Old 12-16-2009, 04:01 PM   #32946
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The only mods to the chassis to do this were, I made some stand offs out of some old Traxxas body posts, they are bolted down in the existing battery locator holes, the front and rear tbar ball cups have been cut down slightly, just two of the screws and plastic on each one, and I had to raise the shock mount and ball stud with two washers to clear the battery at full forward with the shock second hole up. the clearance over the front edge of the battery is a little tight under the body, especially with a Reedy pack, Iwll modify my connectors some more to fix that. The ESC in the pics is a Mamba Max Pro, decased and with the heat sink cut down....
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Old 12-16-2009, 06:49 PM   #32947
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I wish that I would have weighed the frt/rear balance before I made the conversion......after balancing side to side with 1.25oz of lead on the left side right behind the servo, I checked the frt/rear balance and find that it is 56%/44% which does not sound bad. Problem is that it was more than likely 35%/65% with the 4 cell pack. With the additional weight up front, it's like moving the batteries forward which I never did like. To offset the added frt end weight, I assume that you need to run stiffer front springs than normal to get the handling to be like it would be with the batteries back?

I'm also thinking that this set up will require a thicker dampening fluid in the tubes to counteract the extra weight out on the edges of the chassis. Make sense? But with the weight so outboard, the car will tend to transition slower once in a corner back to center which would dictate a lighter dampening fluid. Hmmmmmmmmmm. And potentially, I will need to go softer on the shock spring as well. Lots to learn here.

I do like the way that Ffejdat put his battery over the t-bar too! Nice job! I may just have to try that if my experimenting tomorrow does not work.
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Old 12-16-2009, 08:39 PM   #32948
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I wish that I would have weighed the frt/rear balance before I made the conversion......after balancing side to side with 1.25oz of lead on the left side right behind the servo, I checked the frt/rear balance and find that it is 56%/44% which does not sound bad. Problem is that it was more than likely 35%/65% with the 4 cell pack. With the additional weight up front, it's like moving the batteries forward which I never did like. To offset the added frt end weight, I assume that you need to run stiffer front springs than normal to get the handling to be like it would be with the batteries back?

I'm also thinking that this set up will require a thicker dampening fluid in the tubes to counteract the extra weight out on the edges of the chassis. Make sense? But with the weight so outboard, the car will tend to transition slower once in a corner back to center which would dictate a lighter dampening fluid. Hmmmmmmmmmm. And potentially, I will need to go softer on the shock spring as well. Lots to learn here.

I do like the way that Ffejdat put his battery over the t-bar too! Nice job! I may just have to try that if my experimenting tomorrow does not work.
I set up my t bar car with the battery on one side as you have done. This was during outdoor season here and I ran the car a few times on asphalt. It ran fine, just as well as it did as a 4 cell car. No weird handling problems, end swapping etc. When we started running carpet (at the IIC) I tried it and it worked ok, but felt a bit lazy in the corners. This was with the asphalt set up and rather than working on the set up I just switched to a link car. If you work on your set up you should get the car to work quite well. I have seen other t bar cars (Serpent, 12L4) be quite competetive set up like this.

You keep talking about compensting for extra weight here or there, but your car is well over 100 grams lighter than it was in 4 cell form. The weight is not really farther outboard than a 4 cell car since the cells sat in approximately the same space, and again, its way lighter. I think you should just apply normal tuning procedure on the car and stop thinking it is so different from the 4 cell car
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Old 12-16-2009, 08:54 PM   #32949
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You keep talking about compensting for extra weight here or there, but your car is well over 100 grams lighter than it was in 4 cell form. The weight is not really farther outboard than a 4 cell car since the cells sat in approximately the same space, and again, its way lighter. I think you should just apply normal tuning procedure on the car and stop thinking it is so different from the 4 cell car
Well said!
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:04 PM   #32950
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Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
I set up my t bar car with the battery on one side as you have done. This was during outdoor season here and I ran the car a few times on asphalt. It ran fine, just as well as it did as a 4 cell car. No weird handling problems, end swapping etc. When we started running carpet (at the IIC) I tried it and it worked ok, but felt a bit lazy in the corners. This was with the asphalt set up and rather than working on the set up I just switched to a link car. If you work on your set up you should get the car to work quite well. I have seen other t bar cars (Serpent, 12L4) be quite competetive set up like this.

You keep talking about compensting for extra weight here or there, but your car is well over 100 grams lighter than it was in 4 cell form. The weight is not really farther outboard than a 4 cell car since the cells sat in approximately the same space, and again, its way lighter. I think you should just apply normal tuning procedure on the car and stop thinking it is so different from the 4 cell car
I needed that slap in the face, thanks! I have a tendency to over think things a little, just ask my wife.
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Old 12-17-2009, 08:14 AM   #32951
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I needed that slap in the face, thanks! I have a tendency to over think things a little, just ask my wife.
I resemble that remark!
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Old 12-17-2009, 01:50 PM   #32952
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Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
I wish that I would have weighed the frt/rear balance before I made the conversion......after balancing side to side with 1.25oz of lead on the left side right behind the servo, I checked the frt/rear balance and find that it is 56%/44% which does not sound bad. Problem is that it was more than likely 35%/65% with the 4 cell pack. With the additional weight up front, it's like moving the batteries forward which I never did like. To offset the added frt end weight, I assume that you need to run stiffer front springs than normal to get the handling to be like it would be with the batteries back?

I'm also thinking that this set up will require a thicker dampening fluid in the tubes to counteract the extra weight out on the edges of the chassis. Make sense? But with the weight so outboard, the car will tend to transition slower once in a corner back to center which would dictate a lighter dampening fluid. Hmmmmmmmmmm. And potentially, I will need to go softer on the shock spring as well. Lots to learn here.

I do like the way that Ffejdat put his battery over the t-bar too! Nice job! I may just have to try that if my experimenting tomorrow does not work.

Well with the new 1c saddle pack availible in the next few days you'll be able to scrap that brick pack and have the car look normal again.
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Old 12-17-2009, 05:35 PM   #32953
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Well with the new 1c saddle pack availible in the next few days you'll be able to scrap that brick pack and have the car look normal again.
OMG who... where.... when?
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Old 12-17-2009, 06:22 PM   #32954
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I needed that slap in the face, thanks! I have a tendency to over think things a little, just ask my wife.
whoops! I meant it as more of a noodge than a slap
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Old 12-17-2009, 06:29 PM   #32955
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OMG who... where.... when?
Here is the post with pics and a projected time frame.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/6715015-post160.html
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