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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-15-2009, 06:39 AM   #32911
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I would also look at your front and side springs. I had something like that when I had too much preload on one side spring. I like to setup my car where I do not need more than 1/4 turn in from just touching to get the car tweaked. if it's more than that you may have a problem.

Also check to see if the front ride height is the same on the left and right.
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Old 12-15-2009, 06:53 AM   #32912
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are you seeing buildup or galzing? for glazing, sauce the entire from. the glazing is caused by the front end not getting the tracktion it needs and just sliding. what happens is when the paragon wears off, then you have not traction on the tires anymore. you are not getting any traction from the tires, just the paragon
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Old 12-15-2009, 07:08 AM   #32913
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Quote:
=jdeadman;6721844]I would also look at your front and side springs. I had something like that when I had too much preload on one side spring. I like to setup my car where I do not need more than 1/4 turn in from just touching to get the car tweaked. if it's more than that you may have a problem.

Also check to see if the front ride height is the same on the left and right.
It's a t-bar car, no side springs. I ran a thin and thick. The thin traction rolled and the thick ended up hooking. Ride height in the frt is the same both sides.

Quote:
are you seeing buildup or galzing? for glazing, sauce the entire from. the glazing is caused by the front end not getting the tracktion it needs and just sliding. what happens is when the paragon wears off, then you have not traction on the tires anymore. you are not getting any traction from the tires, just the paragon
Seems like the lilac and magenta fronts glazed and the blacks had build up if that makes any sense. I tried sausing the the whole frt with the black and it did not build up but the car had way too much steering and wanted to traction roll. That might work if I went up to .022 or .024 springs though.
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Old 12-15-2009, 07:15 AM   #32914
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on a low to med traction track, we have not found anything but to sauce the whole front. basically you are complensating for the low tracktion with paragon. the ideal is to find a setup that will work and just use traction compound to fine tune. sauce the front and tenderfoot around the first 3 laps. also make sure you scrub the tires in well. once scrubbed in, you should not feal any of the paragon on the tires anymore.
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Old 12-15-2009, 08:52 AM   #32915
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i run at this same track as steve. i have had some of the gumming with the front tires too, but not to the same extent. have been running grey rears and purple fronts. i am getting a little push bythe end, but managable. i cut down a new set of tires sunday and i noted that after the main i had NO glazing of the front tires at all. i run more caster in the front end than you steve, i noticed this after lookig at your car. i always understood that increasing caster reduces the initial turn in. and that seems to me like where you are having the most issue. yours also had ten degrees active caster, mine is running five. just a thought for you. your car was faster when it was on it wheels for sure. my thinking was that your car is so aggressive withall the reactive and like no static caster from what i could see, that maybe adding in some caster cold be a good thing. worth a try anyway.
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Old 12-15-2009, 09:24 AM   #32916
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It sounds like you got a really dirty carpet. The dirt on the track is sucking the Paragon off the tire, then it builds up on the tire. Get a pro crew there to do a good deep cleaning of the rug. The rugdoctor rentals aren't good enough.
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Old 12-15-2009, 10:50 AM   #32917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
It sounds like you got a really dirty carpet. The dirt on the track is sucking the Paragon off the tire, then it builds up on the tire. Get a pro crew there to do a good deep cleaning of the rug. The rugdoctor rentals aren't good enough.
our clean up crew consists of Dumas. and I keep telling him he sucks at it. he needs to stick to driving.
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Old 12-15-2009, 10:55 AM   #32918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
Everyone is having some issues, some worse than others. Drew Ellis runs here and his car picks up a bad push after about 2 minutes. His pushes so bad by the 7 min mark that it can't hook. I still think it has to do with all the rubber tire cars. Just looking for a good solution because the rubber guys are not going to switch to foam anytime soon, although I wish they would.

We have not tried the grey fronts as of yet but that does sound interesting. I heard a bunch of guys ran them at Cleveland this year.
Some of the problem could be the rubber tires from the sedans. They tend to build up a fuzz on the track which causes the 1:12 cars to have very inconsistent handling. I don't know if you have any foam sedan racing there, but you could try having their heats run right before the 1:12 heats to somewhat clean the fuzz on track.

I think you're going to have the swapping end problem running a 1S on a t-bar car regardless of your setup especially when the grip is high. The thing is you'll probably be able to fix the swapping end issue, but also sacrificing performance of the car at the same time.

I was a die-hard t-bar guy and decided to pick up a 12R5. After racing this last weekend. I'm a link car convert and amazed how easy the 12R5 was to drive and work on. If you can, I would get Keven H's setup from the recent Halloween Classic and slap it on the 12R5. You won't look back at a t-bar car...

Also, is the track strictly a paragon track or all types of additives being used? If you can get everyone to commit to a one or two it might lead to more consistent track conditions.
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Old 12-15-2009, 11:29 AM   #32919
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we only run ground effects.
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Old 12-15-2009, 12:27 PM   #32920
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What I meant is that the rug needs a shampoo. Vacuuming only will go so far. Especially Mike's, where the dirt track and carpet track are nearly back-to-back... I don't know what the situation is like out in CO, though.
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Old 12-15-2009, 12:33 PM   #32921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
It's a t-bar car, no side springs. I ran a thin and thick. The thin traction rolled and the thick ended up hooking. Ride height in the frt is the same both sides.



Seems like the lilac and magenta fronts glazed and the blacks had build up if that makes any sense. I tried sausing the the whole frt with the black and it did not build up but the car had way too much steering and wanted to traction roll. That might work if I went up to .022 or .024 springs though.
SteveL,

Here's my .0001 cent idea. Try the black fronts again, sauce the whole front tire but then wipe off some of the paragon off the front outside tire after a few minutes, leaving on the paragon on the inside of the tire the normal amount of time. It might work.

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Old 12-15-2009, 12:40 PM   #32922
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dont shampoo the carpet we did that one at rc madness and we ended up having to replace the carpet best way to clean the dirt off is to use a good vacume cleaner then just run on it as much as you can or soak a towel with traction compound and drag the track..
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Old 12-15-2009, 01:07 PM   #32923
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hey guys a quick questions on the jaco yellow that keep coming off the rims on the out side edge. what do you you guys recommend to glue the foam down. I would not think of usind Ca as it would create a really heard spot in the foam might soak to much up. thanks in advance
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Old 12-15-2009, 01:20 PM   #32924
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Originally Posted by cyrrus View Post
hey guys a quick questions on the jaco yellow that keep coming off the rims on the out side edge. what do you you guys recommend to glue the foam down. I would not think of usind Ca as it would create a really heard spot in the foam might soak to much up. thanks in advance
Go to a Jaco Orange tire or just glue where the foam and tire meet on the Jaco Yellow. Then after the glue has dried, crack the glue so it's not stiff, but it's still there to help keep the tire from coming off the rim. Also, don't round the tire too much cause it will cause chunking.
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Old 12-15-2009, 01:44 PM   #32925
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Originally Posted by Apex View Post
Also, don't round the tire too much cause it will cause chunking.
Can you explain this? I always thought rounding the tire helps preventing from chunking.
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