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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-12-2009, 09:22 PM   #32896
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Hi, a quick question. I'm new to 1/12th scale and would like to know the tricks to foam tires? How do you prep them for race? I've heard of supper gluing the edges to help kep from chunking tires is this true?

Sorry if it has been asked b4. Don't feel like reading thousands of posts
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:23 PM   #32897
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Originally Posted by GWH74 View Post
It is just an excel spreadsheet with the toe calculations in it.
i think the file was corrupted when it was uploaded. winzip refuses to open it.
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Old 12-13-2009, 12:00 AM   #32898
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i think the file was corrupted when it was uploaded. winzip refuses to open it.
I got it downloaded OK. Unzipped it with 7zip.
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Old 12-13-2009, 12:09 AM   #32899
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Originally Posted by mdwaeracer View Post
Hi, a quick question. I'm new to 1/12th scale and would like to know the tricks to foam tires? How do you prep them for race? I've heard of supper gluing the edges to help kep from chunking tires is this true?

Sorry if it has been asked b4. Don't feel like reading thousands of posts
For most tracks you'll want to true your tires down to a decent size before running them. I generally go with 45mm in the rear and 44mm in the front for club racing, and for larger races where the traction is high I usually go 44mm in the rear and 43mm in the front.

With CA glue, it all depends on how smooth your drive, and how much you hit borders. If you're a very smooth driver and run a clean line, you won't need a lot of CA on your tires. If you don't drive smooth and clean then you'll need a bit more CA.

Also, I only ever CA the rear tires, because I find with my setups and tire choices that the rears are the only tires that ever fold their sidewalls under the rim a whole lot.
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Old 12-13-2009, 01:23 PM   #32900
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Originally Posted by xrayroooahhhh View Post
Just wondering if these orange rimed 1/12 wheels/tires are still available?? I can't seem to find a online retailer that carry them....or are they discontinued?? Any help would be appreciated!!

R
try rc4less.com

GQ used to make the same rubber on orange dish rims - but GQ don't seem to be bringing them into the USA anymore, so the rc4less tires are it for now
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Old 12-14-2009, 06:22 AM   #32901
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Default 1/12th clubs in orlando area

Due at the Snowbirds 2010 arriving on the Saturday.Wa just wondering if there are any 1/12th clubs in the area running on a Sunday.
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Old 12-14-2009, 07:21 AM   #32902
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Originally Posted by mdwaeracer View Post
Hi, a quick question. I'm new to 1/12th scale and would like to know the tricks to foam tires? How do you prep them for race? I've heard of supper gluing the edges to help kep from chunking tires is this true?

Sorry if it has been asked b4. Don't feel like reading thousands of posts
What I like to do is the day before put a light coat of traction compound (Paragon FXII) and put the tires in a zip lock bag then massage the compound into the tires.

Then on race day just coat like normal for the qualifiers then for the mains put lots on and let it sit for as long as possible. then just before the race take the ziplock bag you brought it in and put the dirty side over the tires and massage the compound into the tires again.

That is for our track as we have low to mid traction and we are always fighting to keep the cars from spinning out.

I also use the softest compound available (White rears and Double pink fronts)
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:24 PM   #32903
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I have an interesting delima since I just switched to bl/lipo this past weekend. I am running a t-bar car with the pack running lengthwise and the electronics on the other side. Everything fits nicely and reasonably balanced with some added weight. The problem is that the car starts out driving great and then at the 7 minute mark, starts pushing in one direction and hooking the other. I've tried a variety of different tire combination and it is the same for all of them. I tried running larger tires, 44mm rear/42 frt only to have the car traction roll right off the start. I 've tried thin and thick t-bars with the same results. Changed frt springs and same results.

The only thing I can think of is that our layout has ONE right hand 180* turn and everything else is left including the sweeper into a left 180*, and I'm wondering if the right front tire is getting abused and picking up traction to the point that it starts to dig and make the car hook on left hand turns? We are using good old regular Paragon but the predominant classes are rubber tire VTA & TC so there's lots of rubber in the groove. When you come off after 8 min. the frt tires are caked with build up on the areas that you do not apply any Paragon. ANd don'y suggest doping the eniter frt tire as I tried that too.

It's frustrating in that the car is very fast and easy to drive early, only to become a bag of crap and almost undriveable at the end. This is the same feeling that I always got when I tried link cars in the past.

What should I try next? Jack on the front tires, even stiffer frt springs, more caster, a pit stop tpo change frt tires............ Maybe 24 frt springs with black tires dopped all the way accross?

Thanks for any input as I'm headed to the track Thursday night for more testing.
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Old 12-14-2009, 10:28 PM   #32904
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Many setups I've seen posted here where gumming up is a problem they are running black front tires because they don't gum up as much.
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Old 12-14-2009, 10:31 PM   #32905
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Many setups I've seen posted here where gumming up is a problem they are running black front tires because they don't gum up as much.
I ran Black, Lilac and Magenta Sunday with the same results on all of them.
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Old 12-14-2009, 10:58 PM   #32906
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Is anyone else having the same issue at that track? I'd think if it were an issue with the layout more people would be having the same problem.
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Old 12-14-2009, 11:05 PM   #32907
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Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
I have an interesting delima since I just switched to bl/lipo this past weekend. I am running a t-bar car with the pack running lengthwise and the electronics on the other side. Everything fits nicely and reasonably balanced with some added weight. The problem is that the car starts out driving great and then at the 7 minute mark, starts pushing in one direction and hooking the other. I've tried a variety of different tire combination and it is the same for all of them. I tried running larger tires, 44mm rear/42 frt only to have the car traction roll right off the start. I 've tried thin and thick t-bars with the same results. Changed frt springs and same results.

The only thing I can think of is that our layout has ONE right hand 180* turn and everything else is left including the sweeper into a left 180*, and I'm wondering if the right front tire is getting abused and picking up traction to the point that it starts to dig and make the car hook on left hand turns? We are using good old regular Paragon but the predominant classes are rubber tire VTA & TC so there's lots of rubber in the groove. When you come off after 8 min. the frt tires are caked with build up on the areas that you do not apply any Paragon. ANd don'y suggest doping the eniter frt tire as I tried that too.

It's frustrating in that the car is very fast and easy to drive early, only to become a bag of crap and almost undriveable at the end. This is the same feeling that I always got when I tried link cars in the past.

What should I try next? Jack on the front tires, even stiffer frt springs, more caster, a pit stop tpo change frt tires............ Maybe 24 frt springs with black tires dopped all the way accross?

Thanks for any input as I'm headed to the track Thursday night for more testing.

I ran into this same problem with my CRC3.2r, at the end of the race the car would not turn to save it's a^&. I went to a CRC pro cut gray tire on the front and the car is doing great! After the first run all I do to the tires is clean the front and rear and put Paragon on the rear ONLY! The car is hooked....now if I can drive it things would be geat.
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Old 12-14-2009, 11:10 PM   #32908
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Is anyone else having the same issue at that track? I'd think if it were an issue with the layout more people would be having the same problem.
Everyone is having some issues, some worse than others. Drew Ellis runs here and his car picks up a bad push after about 2 minutes. His pushes so bad by the 7 min mark that it can't hook. I still think it has to do with all the rubber tire cars. Just looking for a good solution because the rubber guys are not going to switch to foam anytime soon, although I wish they would.

We have not tried the grey fronts as of yet but that does sound interesting. I heard a bunch of guys ran them at Cleveland this year.
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Old 12-14-2009, 11:18 PM   #32909
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Our Track Nexus, runs rubber and this is what alot have done to fix it! Good Luck!
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Old 12-15-2009, 06:03 AM   #32910
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Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
I ran Black, Lilac and Magenta Sunday with the same results on all of them.
What rear tire are you using? Also, you stated that blacks didn't work, were you saucing the entire tire and it still loaded up?

Based on various discussions it seems there are 2 different situations that lead to a loss in front traction.
One is a jack the gripper problem where saucing the entire front keeps the rubber clean and using blacks keeps it drivable for the whole 8 minutes.

The other situation is when the fronts are getting overworked(and overheated) because the rear is too locked in. Reducing rear traction with chassis tuning or switching to a lower grip tire in the rear to free it up (grey) lets the car steer more with less load on the front.

i had the first situation, while it sounds like you may have the second.
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