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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-09-2009, 09:30 AM   #32866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMSorber View Post
Read a lot here and google Marc Payne blog, he had a CRC in the past and wrote a lot about it, incl setup tips
Thanks. I did read the Marc Payne blog and found it very interesting but just a tad intimidating and a bit over my head. I was looking for something a little more beginner oriented. I'll keep sorting through this thread though. I guess no one has written "A beginner's guide to 1/12 Scale Racing" yet.
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:03 AM   #32867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxn-t chuck View Post
I am running one. I put my battery on the right side with all the electronic's on the left. I need to add a little weight yet on the left front for balance. Set up wise I use a pivot ball on the front of the T-bar instead of locking it. 5 deg caster, 1 deg toe out, runnig 13.5 with 89 spur and 39 pinion. Jaco black front no sauce, yellow rears 100% sauced. Then I adjust my 3mm ride height as the tires wear.
hey could you email me some pic's of your car
caseyb28@hotmail.com

what battery are you using and servo? I tried that with the reedy 1s lipo i had and just could not get it to work maybe I just have the wrong combo

thanks
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Old 12-09-2009, 12:15 PM   #32868
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Check this thread and you'll see some setups with 1 cell and t-bar cars. Saw a couple on page 5:

1/12th Scale Wiring...(1S)
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:07 AM   #32869
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can someone explain too me how i figure out ro
ll-out
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:25 AM   #32870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motojon View Post
can someone explain too me how i figure out ro
ll-out
go to gearchart.com
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:26 AM   #32871
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Originally Posted by motojon View Post
can someone explain too me how i figure out ro
ll-out
pinion x tire diameter x 3.1416 / spur = rollout

Hope this helps
Jack
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:56 AM   #32872
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Originally Posted by motojon View Post
can someone explain too me how i figure out ro
ll-out
pinion x tire diameter x 3.1416 / spur = rollout

Hope this helps
Jack
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:17 AM   #32873
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Default Toe Measurement

Have a question about front end toe in/out. Noticed a few setup sheets where the front toe is determined by the measuring the distance between the front and rear of the wheels. Seem like the best way to do it.

What is the metric measurement difference between the front and rear of the front wheels which gives one degree of toe in/out. A bonus answer would be the same question for 1/10th pan car (WGT). A super bonus answer would be the equation given any wheel size.
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:28 PM   #32874
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Hi Guys--I am currently running a rec.pack(7.4 lipo2s 250mah)in my 1s 1/12
car.Has anyone put a couple of voltage dropping diodes into the switch harness,to bring the voltage back down from 8v to like 6?It would seem to me that receiver and servo would be a lot happier at that voltage.I know about regulators but on a 1/12 simpler is better.Also-- cheaper and neater.Just curious as if anyonr tried it;or am I the guinea pig.
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Old 12-10-2009, 01:55 PM   #32875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDX-Spike View Post
Have a question about front end toe in/out. Noticed a few setup sheets where the front toe is determined by the measuring the distance between the front and rear of the wheels. Seem like the best way to do it.

What is the metric measurement difference between the front and rear of the front wheels which gives one degree of toe in/out. A bonus answer would be the same question for 1/10th pan car (WGT). A super bonus answer would be the equation given any wheel size.
If the distance between the rear outermost point of the wheel is called R and at the front it's called F, with tyre diameter D it should be:

toe-in = sin-1((F-R)/(2*D))

You have to use an inverse sine (here sin-1, because the forum doesn't allow superscript), so you'll need a calculator.

OR:

You just measure the distance between the front and rear of the wheel and write that down. Should do the job just as well, with less effort. :P

Last edited by Ahmed Aman; 12-10-2009 at 02:04 PM. Reason: edited, for mistake in formula.
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Old 12-10-2009, 03:51 PM   #32876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahmed Aman View Post
If the distance between the rear outermost point of the wheel is called R and at the front it's called F, with tyre diameter D it should be:

toe-in = sin-1((F-R)/(2*D))

You have to use an inverse sine (here sin-1, because the forum doesn't allow superscript), so you'll need a calculator.

OR:

You just measure the distance between the front and rear of the wheel and write that down. Should do the job just as well, with less effort. :P
Thanks for the equation. Now all I need is a scientific calculator!
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Old 12-10-2009, 04:00 PM   #32877
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Or just get the Hudy setup station for pan cars when it gets in stock
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Old 12-10-2009, 04:03 PM   #32878
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you just need the front to be 1mm less than the rear and you're set.
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Old 12-10-2009, 05:58 PM   #32879
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
you just need the front to be 1mm less than the rear and you're set.
Really? 1mm either way is exactly one degree of toe? Well, that's simple. Except the diameter of the WGT tires is larger, so the 1mm might not be right.
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Old 12-10-2009, 09:55 PM   #32880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDX-Spike View Post
Really? 1mm either way is exactly one degree of toe? Well, that's simple. Except the diameter of the WGT tires is larger, so the 1mm might not be right.
for small angles (theta) sin(theta)=tan(theta)=theta where the angle 'theta' is expressed in radians. (a radian is 57.3 degrees)

so a 1degree toein for a 60mm wheel diameter gives a width difference of 60/57.3

i don't know what the average wheel diameter is these days, but if it is 60mm, then 1degree=1mm should be close enough. no need for a inverse sine function if you don't have one.

oops, forgot the punchline, so a wgt tire is 2.25"? or 57.16mm which means almost exactly 1degree = 1mm
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Last edited by avs; 12-10-2009 at 09:59 PM. Reason: missing punchline
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