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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-07-2009, 11:31 AM   #32851
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what are the differences in tbar and link? Is it just feel?
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:46 PM   #32852
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hello,

I have watch many pictures, and it's seem me that some driver use a lipo rx pack (7.4V) directly, without any regulator. so is it possible to do it whit a spektrum receiver?

and except for those who used the Tekkin rs, the other drivers don't use a 1 cell lipo cut-off.

anybody can confirm me this two points please?
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:11 PM   #32853
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I have been using a 2 cell lipo pack (micro-t pack) with no regulator for some time now, works just fine, the reciever itself, if you look at the specs, is rated for up to 9 volts I believe, I think the issue some people have is, the servo is not rated for that high a voltage, and burns up. Many people do it, and it works fine, others have had problems... Maybes ome others can add more input... JEFF
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:15 PM   #32854
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The receiver can but the servo may have problems. As for the cut off...it isn't Tekin specific...any one racing 1 cell LiPo should be using a cut off either in the ESC or in the booster.
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Old 12-07-2009, 04:17 PM   #32855
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
The receiver can but the servo may have problems. As for the cut off...it isn't Tekin specific...any one racing 1 cell LiPo should be using a cut off either in the ESC or in the booster.
I've run the Futaba 9650 for some time with straight voltage and no problems. As for a cut-off its certainly not necessary unless you're running Mod. I'm draining about 3000 mah out of my 13.5 car on a largish carpet track, 120' straight in 8 minutes. Nice peace of mind though . . .
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Old 12-07-2009, 04:34 PM   #32856
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True enough for people who only run 8 minutes at a time like you or I. But a lot of people will go out and "play" or practice for longer than race durations. So for those situations it is safer to have the cut off than not to. I hit the cut off on my TC for the first time yesterday while at the track trying to get the car dialed in.
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:52 PM   #32857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pakk View Post
what are the differences in tbar and link? Is it just feel?
Other then the fact that one has a fiberglass bar running down the middle and the other doesnt? You are correct the major difference in the two is how they work which results in a different feel. Both can be competitive however link cars are almost completely taking over due to the easy use of 1C lipos.
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:34 AM   #32858
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To me-a t bar (maybe I'm wrong)car seems to "flow"better.It seems to be smoother,not as choppy and abrupt in the twisties and transitions better out of a sweeper.The closest I have found in a link car is the BMI which uses flex plates.Maybe it's me -- I have been using t-bars since 1990I struggle with link cars.A 1s saddlepack would be great.
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:44 AM   #32859
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
But a lot of people will go out and "play" or practice for longer than race durations. So for those situations it is safer to have the cut off than not to.
I have maintained that cut-off is valuable for bashers but of little to no use for racers. Like Andrew I'm finding that my 13.5 car is draining something either side of 2800mah in an 8-minute heat depending on the track. That means I should be able to do 14-15 minutes without over-discharging the pack. The reality is that anything over 8-10 minutes and you really aren't "learning" anything anyway. Tires have always been past their "use by" time by then and now with the power "taper off" using 1s by the end of an 8 minute heat much longer than the 8-minutes is really (again) not teaching you anything.

Don't sweat cut-off in 1/12 unless you're running WAY low mod motors.
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Old 12-08-2009, 11:30 AM   #32860
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I most I've drained is just shy of 4100 with a 3.5 on a ~75x48 track with full straight. I have been using a Novak booster and have experienced an occasional glitch where, even after just a few laps, I will loose power to the motor for about 2 seconds. I do however, think its the speedo causing the problem, old sphere. I added a cap which has greatly reduced the problem and lowered the speedo temp significantly. I'm coming off at about 140 on the speedo and 120 on the motor with a 26-28mm rollout.
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Old 12-08-2009, 01:17 PM   #32861
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Default 1/12 scale beginner

I'm brand new to 1/12 scale racing. Just bought a used CRC 3.2 Carpet Knife. This thread is so huge I don't know where to start. Can anyone point me toward a "1/12 Scale Basics" beginner's guide if anything like that exists? Thanks.
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Old 12-08-2009, 01:46 PM   #32862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordGT40 View Post
I'm brand new to 1/12 scale racing. Just bought a used CRC 3.2 Carpet Knife. This thread is so huge I don't know where to start. Can anyone point me toward a "1/12 Scale Basics" beginner's guide if anything like that exists? Thanks.
Read a lot here and google Marc Payne blog, he had a CRC in the past and wrote a lot about it, incl setup tips
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Old 12-08-2009, 02:14 PM   #32863
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Originally Posted by FordGT40 View Post
I'm brand new to 1/12 scale racing. Just bought a used CRC 3.2 Carpet Knife. This thread is so huge I don't know where to start. Can anyone point me toward a "1/12 Scale Basics" beginner's guide if anything like that exists? Thanks.
When I get home from work I'll post my collection of all of the bits and pieces that I Use to setup my car.

I use the 3.2 but any of the CRC Cars setups are similiar

Here is what I use on a Med Traction carpet


Front
Pro Strut Front End
-Springs .45
-No Lube
-Magenta or Double Pink little sauce on the DBL Pink but 50% on the Magenta
-4mm height


Center
-raised chassis mount 2mm
-Red Spring
-60wt
about 1mm droop - when the car is race ready compress the center fo the car a few times then pull up on the upper shock mount of the center shock. the amount that the car raises in the center should be no more than 2mm for a very bumpy track and as little as 0 for a glass smooth track

Rear
-White Jaco Lots of sauce
Note: I will put Paragon FX on my tires the day before and put them in a zip lock bag and massage the sauce into the tire. On race day open the bag and install the tires then resauce the tires lightly . Wait 20 min then lightly rub excess off
-Red or Green Springs
little to no preload on the springs
7000wt in the tubes
4.5mm height



If you are having steering issues the white tires may be too sticky or your diff is too tight/rough and not allowing smooth operation

Also go to your local track and see what everyone else is running. and use their setups for starters
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:56 PM   #32864
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does anyone else have a Hot Bodies 12x out there?
I have got some good info from Trevcoult ( from U.K.)
but I was wondering what the U.S. drivers are doing for set-ups and how are they running 1s lipo's

thanks
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:12 AM   #32865
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Originally Posted by Casey Belarde View Post
does anyone else have a Hot Bodies 12x out there?
I have got some good info from Trevcoult ( from U.K.)
but I was wondering what the U.S. drivers are doing for set-ups and how are they running 1s lipo's

thanks
I am running one. I put my battery on the right side with all the electronic's on the left. I need to add a little weight yet on the left front for balance. Set up wise I use a pivot ball on the front of the T-bar instead of locking it. 5 deg caster, 1 deg toe out, runnig 13.5 with 89 spur and 39 pinion. Jaco black front no sauce, yellow rears 100% sauced. Then I adjust my 3mm ride height as the tires wear.
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