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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm)
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm)
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:


JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)


As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V, 4.2V fuklly charged) for 1/12. If you do not want to run a voltage booster or a receiver pack, there are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so a booster is not required to run the receiver and servo.


If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!

Voltage Boosters


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Old 11-28-2009, 12:41 PM   #32836
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Have you tried different rear suspension setups? I don't run motors that low but my Jaco Prisms are fine until they wear almost to the rim.
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Old 11-28-2009, 04:50 PM   #32837
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If anyone knows, what have you seen to be the lap time differences between 10.5 and 13.5 and 17.5 in 1:12 scale 1S LiPO?
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Old 11-28-2009, 04:53 PM   #32838
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That varies depending on the track layout, size, and driver. What I observe at my track may be vastly different than at your track.
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Old 11-28-2009, 06:15 PM   #32839
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
That varies depending on the track layout, size, and driver. What I observe at my track may be vastly different than at your track.
So at your track what have you been seeing in terms of lap times for a 10.5, 13.5 and 17.5? Is it .5 secs difference between each motor?
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Old 11-28-2009, 08:02 PM   #32840
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Originally Posted by Apex View Post
So at your track what have you been seeing in terms of lap times for a 10.5, 13.5 and 17.5? Is it .5 secs difference between each motor?
Go to LiveRC.com and look at the heat sheets from this weekends US Indoor Champs race in Cleveland. You will find 17.5, 13.5 and Mod all in one place. What I see is that you can see a half a seceond a lap difference in the top ten in each class let alone from one motor to another.

The fastest guys there are turning 9.7 with a 13.5 and 10.2 with a 17.5. The fast Mod guys are 8.7-9.1. The average guys are 10.0-10.5 with 13.5 and 10.5-11.0 in 17.5. There is a 2 lap spread in the Stock A and almost 3 in Masters which also runs 17.5 and what's really funny to me is that the TQ in Stock would be 6th qualifier in Masters. Who says the old guys are slow?
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Old 11-29-2009, 01:05 AM   #32841
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Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
Who says the old guys are slow?
The whole idea of "masters" has become kind of a joke...they're allowing down to 35 years old at Cleveland. That's ridiculous. I'd say do 50 but they probably couldn't fill the class. So maybe 45, no lower than 40. If you can't fill the class at 40 it shouldn't be a class.
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

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Old 11-29-2009, 01:48 AM   #32842
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Originally Posted by Apex View Post
So at your track what have you been seeing in terms of lap times for a 10.5, 13.5 and 17.5? Is it .5 secs difference between each motor?
No...our track is typically 9 to 11 second laps depending on layout so the difference is much smaller when both run. We only run 13.5 right now though in 1/12th. When P2 started racing with us he ran a 17.5 and was faster then the rest of us running 13.5. I'd say he probably picked up .1 maybe .2 when he switched to 13.5. Which on a 10 second lap is a lot of difference.
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Old 11-29-2009, 05:59 AM   #32843
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Mod which includes 10.5 is about 1 second faster then stock on most tracks. We very seldom see a different spread and 10.5 will always do the lap but is a lot harder on most tracks to do the lap every lap... 13.5 is about 4 tenths faster then stock on most layouts.......
Team Tekin, Team Scream, Paint By Mike, Team Mölzer Mowery Racing, EA Motorsports, Speedmerchant, TQ Wire

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Check out You Tube mmrswracing. Every qualifier and every main uploaded at the end of every race day.
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Old 11-29-2009, 07:54 AM   #32844
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Thanks for the replies. I was practicing with a 10.5 and was about .6 faster than a good racer who was running a 13.5.

Anyone know the track (LxW) dimensions of cleveland this year?
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:07 PM   #32845
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what pitch gears are used on a brushless system
My Gpa(RIP)
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:12 PM   #32846
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64 pitch is usually used in 1/12
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Old 12-05-2009, 10:47 AM   #32847
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Default LMP12 works just great!

Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
Well done for the original thinking again Benedict Beautifully designed carbon parts again.

I'm just not sure about the front to rear weight distribution with the LiPo so far forwards.


just ran my LMP12 today for the very first time...

got lot of reactions on the weight distribution (lipo right behind the servo & elecs in the rear), hmmm some doubt about handling, ...

The last race in our club champ' and nothing to win or lose anymore, I installed the lipo in my LMP12: (only 12th scale lipo driver, everybody else on
4600/ 10.5BL)

first run (and also last qualification... needed some time to install everything, so I had to skip the first heat )

Front: black (new/ 15%); Rear: Grey 47,15mm (new/fully soaked!))
Front crc spring: .55
Novak GTB 4cell + no TQ booster + no receiver pack
Lipo: SMC 4900mAh (new)
Motor: Novak 10.5 BL
Gearing: 58mm
Tubes: crc medium
Shock: crc / spring: red
Own carbon t-bar: 1.6 mm (full)
Weight: 760 gr

Too slow in servo response (no surprise... I know), the rest: just great!
speed was allready good and was able to catch up with our (new) local champ':
My time (lipo) : 9,248 sec (no finish - servo loose at end of run) back of grid
Time polesitter: 9,180 sec (48 laps)

=> other runs = nothing changed (no tire change, no gearing change,...)
except = installed the TQ booster !
except = front tires: 50% soaked instead of 15%

Final1: no finish - servo loose (again!) after leading in the race = speed was good enough and servo response was as it should be!
Final2... first win :-) lapping the new local champ'
My time (lipo): 9,009 sec (51 laps)
Time 2nd : 9,072 sec (50 laps)

Surprisingly enough the balance of my car was super! no problem or doubt, in the contrary, the car with lipo in "front"? worked (as I hoped it would be ) even better than the 'normal' cars. Yep, no kidding.. this works!

benedict vantomme

ps: after 3 runs: rear grey tire : 46,85 mm
- Vantomme LMP12 > 100% lipo <
- Vantomme M12
- Vantomme E12
- Vantomme M10

Last edited by Benedict; 12-05-2009 at 10:50 AM. Reason: Rear tire end diameter
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Old 12-06-2009, 11:28 PM   #32848
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anyone know if there are any plans on a 1's saddle pack for t bar cars. heard rumors but thats about all. tried a link car but i like tbar car better.
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Old 12-07-2009, 10:10 AM   #32849
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same here
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Old 12-07-2009, 10:22 AM   #32850
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Speedzone is working on a 1s lipo saddle pack.

Check this thread for more info:
Speedzone 3.7v Lipo 4800mAh 30C
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