R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-21-2009, 08:27 PM   #32791
Tech Elite
 
mangoman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,981
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

The front of the center shock on that LMP12 will be significantly higher than normal, wont that effect steering a lot?
__________________
Hot Bodies Cyclone!!!
www.smaracing.org
www.rchobbies.com.au - www.feralbatteries.com.au
craig mcphee ( WHERE'S MY BEER )
mangoman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 04:06 AM   #32792
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Mclean, VA
Posts: 3,940
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hans_swe View Post
I do have LRP new SXX esc- If i read right the esc have inboard li-po cut off so if i have li-fe 6.6v reciever battery i can run without any bosters just the reciver battery ?? is that correct ??
I don't know what the SXX specs are for cutoff, but if it handles cutoff for 1s LiPO's, then yes the LiFe 6.6v receiver pack will be all you'll need.
Apex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 01:09 PM   #32793
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Hi guys, I ran with a 1c LiPo for the first time yesterday, and just wanted to ask some questions about charging them. I use a Robitronic Overloader charger and a couple of the 40c / 4600mAh Reedy LiPo packs. When you set the charger up, I put that the max capacity is 4600mAh, so it automatically sets the charge rate at a max of 4.6Amps. The charger started the charge cycle at around 1.5 amps, then went up to 4.6 and then eventually back done to .1 amp. Is this correct? It took ages to charge each pack and bearing in mind that this was the first time I have used LiPo, I just wanted to make sure that everything was as it should be. Oh, I set the discharge voltage to 3.1v and discharged them once home, then charged them back up again. The charge took 83 minutes!! Thanks in advance guys, cheers.
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 02:12 PM   #32794
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,119
Trader Rating: 237 (100%+)
Default

What you are describing is how CC/CV charging works. The charge starts in CC (Constant Current) mode which is pretty much how we're used to seeing charging. At some certain point (90% capacity or so?) the charger switches over to a CV (Constant Voltage) charging mode where the battery is maintained at a pre-determined voltage and charging current gradually drops off.

ANY battery charged at constant 1C (LiPo or NiMH, etc) would take approximately 1 hour to charge from complete discharge. Having the algorithm change off so the last 10% or so of capacity is charged at an ever reducing rate makes 83 minutes total seem quite reasonable.

That said, right now my batteries are taking something less than 3000mah to recharge after a heat (13.5 SuperStock class) so the recharge at 4.9amps (1C) takes about 45-50 minutes.
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 04:43 PM   #32795
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Thanks for that mate, so everything is as it should be. Great! Cheers.
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 07:52 PM   #32796
Tech Master
 
Dane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Athens , GA
Posts: 1,553
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Dane Send a message via Skype™ to Dane
Default

What's the best way to hold down wires to the chassis? Has anyone tried hot glue? I want to have a secure placement but also be able to remove the electronics at some point in time and still have the wires in tact.

Thanks
__________________
"the big secret is to keep practicing and never get discouraged when taking a good beating on the track" - Paul L
Dane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 08:23 PM   #32797
Tech Addict
 
georgec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: TN
Posts: 624
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Hello, Just getting back into 1/12th scale and I was looking for pretrued donuts. Anyone know where to get the best price!
Thanks in advance, georgec
georgec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 08:27 PM   #32798
Tech Master
 
Dane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Athens , GA
Posts: 1,553
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Dane Send a message via Skype™ to Dane
Default

http://www.nexusracing.com/index.php?cPath=144_188_342
__________________
"the big secret is to keep practicing and never get discouraged when taking a good beating on the track" - Paul L
Dane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 10:12 PM   #32799
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: SIMI VALLEY CA
Posts: 245
Default

Im sure this question gets asked alot but here we go im new to electric and have a serpent s120 and need a esc and motor whats the best set up?I want to run the expert class.Thanks
__________________
Mugen USA-FX Hobbies-Airtronics
TONY CLARK
STRICTLYSERPENT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 10:47 PM   #32800
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by georgec View Post
Hello, Just getting back into 1/12th scale and I was looking for pretrued donuts. Anyone know where to get the best price!
Thanks in advance, georgec
Your best bet is mounted and trued tires. Pretrued donuts are no longer true once they get mounted. Stormer as well as other on-line shops carry the full line of Jaco tires as well as Parma and CRC.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2009, 02:13 AM   #32801
Tech Elite
 
corallyman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Edmonds, Wash
Posts: 4,291
Trader Rating: 97 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dane View Post
What's the best way to hold down wires to the chassis? Has anyone tried hot glue? I want to have a secure placement but also be able to remove the electronics at some point in time and still have the wires in tact.

Thanks
Shoe Goo if you want to do that but it's not needed really. Just bundle it neatly, use shrink tubing or CRC use to sell these clips that were small. They would servo tape down then you inserted the wires into the clip.

Steve
__________________
Team ORCA / ORCA USA / Pro Spec
Serpent America / Team Serpent S411 ERYX / On Point Racing OP12C, S120 / Xceed Products
Hangar 30 / Seattle RC Racers
Fasttrax Racing Series / NORA On Road Series
corallyman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2009, 04:46 AM   #32802
Tech Addict
 
georgec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: TN
Posts: 624
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Your best bet is mounted and trued tires. Pretrued donuts are no longer true once they get mounted. Stormer as well as other on-line shops carry the full line of Jaco tires as well as Parma and CRC.
Thanks guys , I'll go the premount route.
georgec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2009, 06:10 AM   #32803
Tech Master
 
Dane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Athens , GA
Posts: 1,553
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Dane Send a message via Skype™ to Dane
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by STRICTLYSERPENT View Post
Im sure this question gets asked alot but here we go im new to electric and have a serpent s120 and need a esc and motor whats the best set up?I want to run the expert class.Thanks
Speed controls have really changed the game in the last year with special programming,timing advances, etc. The nicer ESCs can be hooked into your PC for almost infinite adjustment and the advantage is absolutely noticeable on the track. Choices include the KO Propo BMC, Tekin RS & RS Pro, LRP SXX, and the upcoming Novak Kinetic.

With that said, motor choice really isn't a huge deal but the Trinity Duo and Duo 2's are popular. I think if you have a good ESC with those adjustments mentioned, that motor will scream regardless of which sticker is on it
__________________
"the big secret is to keep practicing and never get discouraged when taking a good beating on the track" - Paul L
Dane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2009, 07:18 AM   #32804
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by STRICTLYSERPENT View Post
Im sure this question gets asked alot but here we go im new to electric and have a serpent s120 and need a esc and motor whats the best set up?I want to run the expert class.Thanks
hey tony,
i presume you are referring to the roadrunners 1/12 expert class. i haven't been there, but their website indicated it is a 4cell 13.5 class but that was a 1 yr old post. so now they could also be running 1cell lipo, still with 13.5 or maybe 10.5. (i have some almost new 4cell packs if you are interested)

these are spec class motors, so there isn't be a huge disparity between brands, but they aren't identical. duo2 are highly sought after but you will see tekin speed passion novak etc all running well

esc choice is where things matter. CRC's advanced electronics unit is the latest hot ticket in the speedo war, but the Tekin RS has upgradeable software and there are pretty regular updates (check out their thread). i also see lrp and KO, but i am not familiar with their models.

one thing i noticed at ocrc this past year,where there was a combined 4cell 17.5 and 1s lip 13.5 class, was everybody went to 1s lipo, (the latest batch of nimh are really good performing but are a pain to deal with compared with 1 lipo cell.
__________________
Tony Shimko
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2009, 08:14 AM   #32805
Tech Fanatic
 
swimbikerun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 886
Trader Rating: 100 (100%+)
Default

I tried searching this thread and was surprised there wasn't an answer for this. In 17.5/13.5 1s lipo on carpet the front tire to use are Jaco Black/Purple (or equivalents) because they are more 'consistent' throughout a run. Why is that? Why do you lose steering with 2x Pink or softern compounds less than half way through a run? Someone explained it is because there isn't enough heat generated in the tires in the stock classes so the harder compounds change less than the softer ones. Is there another reason?
__________________
-Xray T4 '16/Xray X12 '16
-2010 Cincinnati Beer Mile Champion
swimbikerun is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:41 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0