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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-17-2009, 06:36 PM   #32731
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Originally Posted by Tha Skinny View Post
Hey there Yang, I am looking t get back into 1/12 though I barely started in the first place. I know steve has his for sale with some parts so I am thinking that one would be nice also..a 12r5 would wrk also.
steve has a db12r i beleive. I don't think he upgraded to the rr. so the regular 1s fits just fine in the car without the lipo upgrade. the lipo upgrade will lower the battery a little, but not a necessity. the Speedmerchant rev 5 runs just as well as the rev 5L. you may want to look at the 12r5 because you will have more support of that chassis up there in OK country. stanton has his working well. just ask Andrew. when starting out, it is important to have others to work with.
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Old 11-17-2009, 06:40 PM   #32732
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very very true! Yeah Stanton's was running pretty well......
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:26 PM   #32733
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Hi guys,
I'm understand using a booster or small battery to operate the receiver and servo at the proper voltage.

How do we keep the 1s from discharging too deeply during practice or a race? Is there low voltage limiter available or do we just buy a big capacity battery and not run it long enough to pull it down too far?

At my track they are saying about 2300 mAH to recharge a battery after an 8 minute race for the 13.5 BL class on what I'd consider a large indoor track.

Also, heard that Novak is coming out with a 1s specific ESC later this year. Anyone run across a preproduction version yet?

Thanks, Lee B.
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:29 PM   #32734
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If you decide to go with the BMI DB12R and want to convert for 1s LiPo lemme know. JP and I figured out a couple little tricks (like re-purposing, with a little Dremel surgury, the battery brace). You'll need to tape the pack in (slots are in the chassis) and after a bit of experience with the setup now I'm going to do a little "clearancing" on the flex plates at their bend to better clear the pack. It's GENERALLY ok, but now and again if I wasn't REALLY careful about how the pack sat in the car I could get a little rub.

BTW...the car worked REALLY well with this setup. It was far faster than I, I'm afraid, at the TimeZone Gran Prix...the driver was definitely the limiting factor.
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:43 PM   #32735
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Originally Posted by Lee_123 View Post
Hi guys,
I'm understand using a booster or small battery to operate the receiver and servo at the proper voltage.

How do we keep the 1s from discharging too deeply during practice or a race? Is there low voltage limiter available or do we just buy a big capacity battery and not run it long enough to pull it down too far?

At my track they are saying about 2300 mAH to recharge a battery after an 8 minute race for the 13.5 BL class on what I'd consider a large indoor track.

Also, heard that Novak is coming out with a 1s specific ESC later this year. Anyone run across a preproduction version yet?

Thanks, Lee B.
The Novak Booster has a LVC built in which cuts the power to the radio. Tekin's RS series with the v200 software has a LVC that will work with either a booster or Rx pack.

That mah usage is about right depending on how much timing and throttle you use and how technical the track is. It could be as high as 3500mah.

I have no clue about Novak ESC since I dumped the GTB.
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:57 PM   #32736
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Can the GTB 4 cell still keep up with the newer ESCs in 12th scale? Since 12th scales are smaller and lighter, is horsepower as precious as it is in say touring?

Thanks
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:08 PM   #32737
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Originally Posted by theisgroup View Post
steve has a db12r i beleive. I don't think he upgraded to the rr. so the regular 1s fits just fine in the car without the lipo upgrade. the lipo upgrade will lower the battery a little, but not a necessity. the Speedmerchant rev 5 runs just as well as the rev 5L. you may want to look at the 12r5 because you will have more support of that chassis up there in OK country. stanton has his working well. just ask Andrew. when starting out, it is important to have others to work with.

Hey!!!!

To be honest I drove Stanton's car, and to me my car felt better. He just out-drove me with his car!

Definitely go with the 12r5 Chris. You won't be disappointed.
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:12 PM   #32738
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Absolutely no need to run anything different than plain ole steel balls. I build my diffs with them, and if done correctly, you can get the diff locked, and still have light enough action that the diff will just/almost counter rotate with just the resistance of a 13.5 or 17.5 brushless motor installed with correct gear mesh. In fact I don't sand my rings or replace the balls. Just clean it out when I rebuild and its back to glass goodness. I know more than one Mod/SS 12th champion who does the same.
I can vouch for this.... I used to sand my rings and replace my diff balls all the time and I use the IRS diff balls! I now will only replace if I drop one and can't find it LOL. He did say to change them just not as often AT ALL!!!

Hey AWD you wouldn't have a 1/12 to get rid f would you? Als let me know whats up when you get some mre boosters!
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Old 11-17-2009, 09:44 PM   #32739
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I can vouch for this.... I used to sand my rings and replace my diff balls all the time and I use the IRS diff balls! I now will only replace if I drop one and can't find it LOL. He did say to change them just not as often AT ALL!!!

Hey AWD you wouldn't have a 1/12 to get rid f would you? Als let me know whats up when you get some mre boosters!
No 12th scales to sell. There are a few I have seen or heard of for sale down here though. A BMI, a Ck 3.2, I bet even a Rev 5 sooner or later. If I were you though I would jsut pay the $219 Mike is seling the 12R5.1 new for though. Better to have the same car as someone else up there.

I will have more boosters made in about 3 weeks. How many do you want? $20 shipped.

AWD
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:09 PM   #32740
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No 12th scales to sell. There are a few I have seen or heard of for sale down here though. A BMI, a Ck 3.2, I bet even a Rev 5 sooner or later. If I were you though I would jsut pay the $219 Mike is seling the 12R5.1 new for though. Better to have the same car as someone else up there.

I will have more boosters made in about 3 weeks. How many do you want? $20 shipped.

AWD
Andrew,
What are the specs of these boosters you're talking about?
Mahalo,
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:02 PM   #32741
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Andrew,
What are the specs of these boosters you're talking about?
Mahalo,
P2
Same here, might be interested but need the skinny on your item.

Steve
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:56 PM   #32742
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For those interested, R/C Evil Empire did a build and test artticle of the Team Associated 12L5.1. It can be read here:

http://rcevilempire.com/2009/11/rcee...ated-rc12l5-1/

Special thanks to Traci Hohwart of Team Associated for all the help. It was a really nice build and I definitely recommend the car if you are into 1/12 racing
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Old 11-18-2009, 12:21 AM   #32743
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Default Damper grease

Hey guys,
I race my XII on asphalt and its pretty dusty. I find that if I dont replace the grease in my damper disc the car is like eratic on my next run...
I use the standard xray diff grease and some shock oil 350 or 450cst.
After my 8minutes run its like nothing left in the damper disk...
How often do you grease yours.? And is it and alternative for the diff grease.
How much do you put in?
I tried different grease but cant get one as thin and soft as the Xray diff grease, with thicker grease my rear pod doesnt reach the same.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 11-18-2009, 12:41 AM   #32744
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For those interested, R/C Evil Empire did a build and test artticle of the Team Associated 12L5.1. It can be read here:

http://rcevilempire.com/2009/11/rcee...ated-rc12l5-1/

Special thanks to Traci Hohwart of Team Associated for all the help. It was a really nice build and I definitely recommend the car if you are into 1/12 racing
Just an FYI, not really a biggie because everyone knows the car but you could edit the title to 12R5.1 not "L". This is the first car in some time without the "L" in the title.

I like your interviews that you guys do btw.

Steve
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Old 11-18-2009, 12:45 AM   #32745
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Hey guys,
I race my XII on asphalt and its pretty dusty. I find that if I dont replace the grease in my damper disc the car is like eratic on my next run...
I use the standard xray diff grease and some shock oil 350 or 450cst.
After my 8minutes run its like nothing left in the damper disk...
How often do you grease yours.? And is it and alternative for the diff grease.
How much do you put in?
I tried different grease but cant get one as thin and soft as the Xray diff grease, with thicker grease my rear pod doesnt reach the same.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks
I think you should use some damper syrup like what CRC, speedmerchant etc sells or you can use ofna, kyosho oils for gear diffs. Basically it just sounds like you need something thicker. The syrup should stay for quite some time, in fact you may have to clean in there moreso than refill it once you find the correct thickness. Once you get some thicker stuff in there then adjust the car as needed.

Steve
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