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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-30-2003, 10:11 PM   #3256
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Post 1/12 SCALE F1 LEXAN BODIES

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE CAN I GET 1/12 SCALE F1 LEXAN BODIES ?
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Old 07-01-2003, 12:47 AM   #3257
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Hi guys..

I am new to 1 1/2 scale... I got a Corally Sp12G2 from a friend...
I drove it and I like it very much.. and it's freakin fast..

I have a question to ask..

1. What's the diameter of the front wheel ( with tire mounted onto rims)

2.What's the diameter for the rear? (with tire mounted onto wheels.


cheers
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Old 07-01-2003, 04:22 AM   #3258
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Hello and welcome to 1/12 scale!

You will want to get a set of cheap calipers because your tire size changes and as it does you should change gearing to keep up with the reducing diamater.

Look back a few pages for a discussion on Rollout (gearing).

Average rear tire ~1.9 inches, give or take.

David Root
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Old 07-01-2003, 06:42 AM   #3259
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i think speed demon was after the actual diameter of the Wheel. mine are:-
front-35.5mm
rear 35.5mm

sorry i dont have any imch sizes. hope that helps

matt rice
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Old 07-01-2003, 01:11 PM   #3260
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cool huh!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pancar1.jpg (22.4 KB, 140 views)
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Old 07-01-2003, 03:16 PM   #3261
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trackmagnet-
very cool!
How old is that photo? That sure looks like a TOJ on the third car from the left.
O'D
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Old 07-01-2003, 03:29 PM   #3262
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I finally get to get my carpet knife working tomorrow wahoo! I've got my ascari body all painted and decalled up and all I need now is the speedo that I'm buying used from one of the guys I know at my track. I think the front tires need to be trued too because the Jaco tires I got don't look very good. Even though when I bought them they said they were trued. Hmmmmmm, oh well. Than I also get the slow process (it seems slow, but how slow is it really ? ) of getting the camber properly adjusted. Oh well, atleast I will be able to drive. I like the ascari body, it looks sweet, I also like how it has a slight impression on where the rear wheel will be so I didn't have to figure that all on my own, I just cut it out and than inlarged the hole with my dremel tool. And now its pretty much perfect, how much larger should I have the wheel well over the size of the actual tire?
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Old 07-01-2003, 06:39 PM   #3263
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Hi guys, I sure this question has probably been asked before, but I want to get into 1/12 and I've been looking at a used CRC bloody red six pack and a rc12l3. Can anyone give me any advice? If it matters, I plan on putting a hacker brushless motor in it.
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Old 07-01-2003, 06:59 PM   #3264
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i dont know if you could fit a brushless motor in a 12th scale with the way the rear pod works (maybe on a trinity car though...) although a brushless in a 12th scale is completly unessary for many reasons....

racerdx- i got to run the ascari bodies for the first time at the paved nats last week and found that they hold up the best out of all the lightweight bodies out there currently. as far as cutting out the body so it doesnt rub the tires or chunk em after a hit, here is what to do. in step form!

1)mount the body, just make holes for the posts, and lock the body in as if you were to go racing with body clips.

2) find the axle line (or center of the wheel when the car is sitting with batteries and everything, basically ready to go), and then make a dot with a sharpe.

3)take a spare tire (with the same diamiter or slightly larger) place the center of the spare tire where that dot was and take the sharpe and trace it, then cut out the line. however near the bottom make sure to open it up. basically you want to make sure that within the travel that the wheel will go through during racing that the tire will not contact the body in any way. so make sure that when the lexan before and after the tire is turned in it doesnt get stuck on the tire.

4)for achieving the proper body height, go back to step one (or you could do this before cutting out the wheels, it doesnt matter). place the car on a level surface (like a table) and then lay the sharpe flat on the ground, then take the sharpe and run it around the body. you should end up with a line 3mm or so above the ground, if you cut that line then your body will be at the perfect height to the ground. (sometimes it takes a few times to make sure it is correct if the body has to much material below the chassis). also make sure to do this with the correct ride height and tire size, since if you mount the body too low the tires might rub.

5) with the front tires to make sure they dont rub the body... put the body on the car and then turn the wheels and compress the suspenion to make sure that the front tire will not rub the body during its movement during racing.
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Old 07-01-2003, 07:15 PM   #3265
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Quote:
Originally posted by King Kong
Hi guys, I sure this question has probably been asked before, but I want to get into 1/12 and I've been looking at a used CRC bloody red six pack and a rc12l3. Can anyone give me any advice? If it matters, I plan on putting a hacker brushless motor in it.
The hacker brushless will fit in a 12th scale but only when running 4 cells, although with 4 cells it does not like starting from a dead stop, essentially it will not work, although the novak is rated for 4 cells, and it goes quite well, it has similar performance to a 9-10 turn and is very smooth to drive.
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Old 07-01-2003, 07:30 PM   #3266
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Quote:
Originally posted by King Kong
Hi guys, I sure this question has probably been asked before, but I want to get into 1/12 and I've been looking at a used CRC bloody red six pack and a rc12l3. Can anyone give me any advice? If it matters, I plan on putting a hacker brushless motor in it.
The hacker brushless will fit in a 12th scale but only when running 4 cells, although with 4 cells it does not like starting from a dead stop, essentially it will not work, although the novak is rated for 4 cells, and it goes quite well, it has similar performance to a 9-10 turn and is very smooth to drive.
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Old 07-01-2003, 07:53 PM   #3267
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No 1/12 racing around here only in the winter and its a 1.5 hour drive, but worth it. They do have a parking lot class for 1/12, but I am the only one that shows up with my Carpet kinife. I love racing 1/12, but for now its my 1/10 pan against the sedans and off road trucks gas and electric.

Racerdx Gald you got it all ready to drive!!

Oh yeah, I got passed by a MOD MICRO when practicing at the parking lot race. I was embaressed.

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Old 07-01-2003, 08:06 PM   #3268
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be careful. Some of those micros have 540 motors in them. I was going to do that with a brushless, but pratically everything would have to be upgraded
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Old 07-01-2003, 08:32 PM   #3269
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Quote:
i think speed demon was after the actual diameter of the Wheel
yes.. I am actually asking for the tire diameter that we use commonly....

Okay, does the front tire and the rear tire differ in diameter like what I see in the photo.. or it should be the same diameter?
I know tire width is different... between front and rear..
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Old 07-01-2003, 08:38 PM   #3270
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so, do you guys think I should go with crc or associated?
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