R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-08-2009, 07:36 AM   #32641
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3
Default

Servus

Im new in this forum and my name is Stefan from Germany.
i drive Touringcar and Pancar since 5 years, Carpet and Asphalt .
Just in time I drive 1/12 CRC genx with a 27t Brushengine and a 2s2p 1800 mah 1/18 Lipo go well in the Crc,.
A 6-7min journey time with a 54mm Rollout is therefore possible.
Topspeed over 50 km/h.

The 1/18 Lipo is cheaper than the 1S Lipo and you have enough Power for the BEC and needīnt no Booster,for a fast Servo.
More voltage for the same Power signify less current in the system=less burden.

I think about whether possible the Microsystem from 1/18 controller and engine built in the 1/12 for longer journey time??

Have everybody in this forum this opportunity test drive?

I think a complete 1/18 Setup is perhaps cheaper than a 540er Brushless and a speziall 3,7V controller and a 3,7V 40C 5000mah Akku etc.


i enjoy over your answer.

I apologize me bad english.

mfg stefan
Greuthof is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2009, 09:03 AM   #32642
Tech Elite
 
TommyBlazin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: jersey
Posts: 2,544
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

interesting,, i often thought about this as well, to bad mains are 8 minutes tho..
__________________
Trying my hand at electric in off season...TLR Sct 2.0---Trinity D4 10.5---HobbyWing 120 amp Black Edition---Trinity the "Brick"--Panther tires--Savox
TommyBlazin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2009, 09:39 AM   #32643
Tech Elite
 
mangoman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,981
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

If i read that correctly 2s2p 1800mah is two packs in parallel?

So it should actually mean 3600 mah and that would be enuff for spec racing.
__________________
Hot Bodies Cyclone!!!
www.smaracing.org
www.rchobbies.com.au - www.feralbatteries.com.au
craig mcphee ( WHERE'S MY BEER )
mangoman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2009, 10:47 AM   #32644
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,662
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greuthof View Post
Servus

Im new in this forum and my name is Stefan from Germany.
i drive Touringcar and Pancar since 5 years, Carpet and Asphalt .
Just in time I drive 1/12 CRC genx with a 27t Brushengine and a 2s2p 1800 mah 1/18 Lipo go well in the Crc,.
A 6-7min journey time with a 54mm Rollout is therefore possible.
Topspeed over 50 km/h.

The 1/18 Lipo is cheaper than the 1S Lipo and you have enough Power for the BEC and needīnt no Booster,for a fast Servo.
More voltage for the same Power signify less current in the system=less burden.

I think about whether possible the Microsystem from 1/18 controller and engine built in the 1/12 for longer journey time??

Have everybody in this forum this opportunity test drive?

I think a complete 1/18 Setup is perhaps cheaper than a 540er Brushless and a speziall 3,7V controller and a 3,7V 40C 5000mah Akku etc.


i enjoy over your answer.

I apologize me bad english.

mfg stefan
Myself and at least one other person that I know of have and are experimenting with 380 motors/esc's. So far I have only been able to try this twice and am still working on the gearing. The motors are a difficult fit due to the shorter armature lenght of the 380 motor. I'm no expert so I'm just fooling around with it but I'd say that for this to work it would require major design changes. And because these 380 motors are not universal to other RC platforms(except 1/18) accepttance might be difficult. Just my thoughts.
__________________
Sponsered by:

CMDezigns Paint Works
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CM-Dezigns/259989190822177?ref=hl
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2009, 10:58 AM   #32645
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3
Default

Servus

Thats my racer:
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-crc-003.jpg  
Greuthof is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2009, 11:32 AM   #32646
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 104
Default Vintage Kyosho 1/12 + Current Equipment

Hey All,
Forgive me if this has already been discussed. I am in the process of restoring some of my old Kyosho 1/12 (Plazmas, Fantoms, Axis EX) and have enough shelf queens and spare parts....looking to turn a few into serious competitors. I've been out of the game for quite some time, and instead of buying new NiCd batteries and old-style motors, I am thinking it makes sense to just bring the electronics up to date. Unfortunately I am a total rookie and know very little about the new systems. Can anyone recommend a good starter system that would be a good fit for these types of cars? I am looking for recommendations for LiPo batteries, ESC, brushless motor, and charger. I am a bit overwhelmed by the choices and unsure of how to decide based on the application, which is mostly pavement/road course and occasional carpet running. Because these are such tiny/lightweight and unique cars, I don't want to just run out and get anything. Thanks for any advice!
sundevil67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2009, 12:40 PM   #32647
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greuthof View Post
Servus

Thats my racer:
Sorry i mean 2s1p!
Greuthof is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2009, 01:44 PM   #32648
Tech Regular
 
GWH74's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 254
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Hi Servus

There is a thread on 1/12 2-cell with 1/18 motors.
Not much recent activity but it has lots of information in it.

The future of 1/12 scale
__________________
AE 12R5.1 - Custom chassis
For Sale BMI DB12RR, Tire Warmers and lots of other stuff.
GWH74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2009, 03:13 AM   #32649
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 544
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Hi. I'm wondering which body out there will provide maximum downforce for the sometimes slippery track I run on. How does the new protoform AMR perform?
m@_c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2009, 04:09 AM   #32650
Tech Master
 
PartTime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling hts MI
Posts: 1,029
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by m@_c View Post
Hi. I'm wondering which body out there will provide maximum downforce for the sometimes slippery track I run on. How does the new protoform AMR perform?
It performs very well. Same balance as the speed 12 but more down force.

DK
PartTime is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2009, 10:38 AM   #32651
Tech Elite
 
pakk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,077
Trader Rating: 79 (100%+)
Default

Where can I get some setup tools to set my toe on my pan cars.
__________________
*Photon* *SC10 4x4*
RCRD
pakk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2009, 11:38 AM   #32652
Tech Elite
 
LOW ET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: cleveland, ohio
Posts: 2,487
Trader Rating: 88 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pakk View Post
Where can I get some setup tools to set my toe on my pan cars.
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/news/newsd...30d3dec03194ac
LOW ET is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2009, 11:42 AM   #32653
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,660
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pakk View Post
Where can I get some setup tools to set my toe on my pan cars.
http://www.unitytool.com/tweakboard/index.html
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 7 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2009, 11:53 AM   #32654
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,123
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

My argument would be that the Unity station is AWESOME in many ways (and certainly a very good alignment tool) but the tweak portion of the job I think it's just too heavy for 1/12 use. I've tried them, I know several guys in the ND group had them and they've all sold 'em off.

Thanks to Crashby I had the opportunity to use the new Hudy pan car system this past weekend at the AWESOME TimeZone Gran Prix. I set my car up with the tools I've been using for a LONG time now (Niftech alignment bars and a cheapo RPM camber gauge) and then put the car on the Hudy fixtures. It confirmed that I've been getting VERY good results from the incumbent "system" but the Hudy system (particularly for toe) is much more intuitive to use. Plus the ability to quickly and accurately measure steering throws is very nice.

I wish it was coming in a fitted case that was appropriate to it's size. I'd even be all for it coming packaged with Hudy's excellent (and VERY light) tweak bar that Crashby was also sporting. As it is it comes in the very same carton as the 1/8 off-road system so that two brick sized carton is WOEFULLY under-filled, taking up FAR more space than needed.

Truth is I'll probably end up getting one anyway, but if it was in a case (with or without the tweak bar) I'd be the first in line with an order. I'd even order two.
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2009, 11:58 AM   #32655
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,123
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

I should also mention that the TimeZone Gran Prix provided an opportunity to meet a couple folks I've "conversed" with on-line for seemingly ever and finally put faces with names. Crashby is undoubtedly the stabilizing influence among his group of old fart racers ("Now Jay..."), "OD" is probably the brains of the operation and Jay is always ready to provide comic relief. Add the uber-talented (and helpful) Tim Copp to the mix. What a great bunch of guys, there's no doubt I will HAVE to find a way to make it out to the Bay area to take in some racing there. Just need to find a hotel sponsor...
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:50 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0