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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-05-2009, 04:37 PM   #32626
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need some help here, I just picked up a gen x and I need some advice with regards to the FF:

how to adjust front ride height
if the other side (rear) is higher than the other , what to do? considering that wheels have the same diameter.
how do you guys usually ck for tweaks?

thanks
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Old 11-05-2009, 04:51 PM   #32627
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Front ride height is mainly adjusted using the front height blocks and then further using height adjusters
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=CLN3233
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=CLN4262
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:54 PM   #32628
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you guys have probably seen this already...

but incase you haven't, novak has put this on their website:

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Old 11-05-2009, 11:16 PM   #32629
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I think, thats what tekin used to advise in the very first days of lipo 1s usage and a 2s receiver pack.

Personally on 1s i have been running the tekin with the red wire in but not turning on the esc the smart boost on and the esc switch OFF (which basically results in the the tekin's voltage cutoff not kicking in, but everything else works normally on the esc, dont ask me how it works.....).
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:20 PM   #32630
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Most ESCs you will want to either leave the ESC switch off or pull the red wire. Tekin with V200 is the only one I know of that is designed to run with both switches on without pulling the red wire.
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Old 11-06-2009, 02:57 AM   #32631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Most ESCs you will want to either leave the ESC switch off or pull the red wire. Tekin with V200 is the only one I know of that is designed to run with both switches on without pulling the red wire.
I believe it's with V198 and newer w/ Hotwire. RX pack switch, then ESC pack with a 3V cutoff and you're ready to go. Here's the link to a post from Tekin: Tekin RS/RS PRO on 1s Lipo Q&A
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:43 AM   #32632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivingpro View Post
you guys have probably seen this already...

but incase you haven't, novak has put this on their website:

Are there any indicators as to which wiring method should be used?
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Old 11-06-2009, 03:57 PM   #32633
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I guess if the method in the manual is glitchy or unreliable for you then try this way?
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:52 AM   #32634
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Had a ? I see the manual for the 12r5.1 tells you to file the edges of the chassis. Do you only have to file the edges that the batt. will set in? I think I remember hearing abouit sealing the edges of the carbon fiber parts with CA should this be done to all edges or only the outside ones? any help would be appreciated. Thanks new to this.
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:09 AM   #32635
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You do it to EVERY edge of carbon fiber. Two reasons and the first is the most important. Sanding the edges of the chassis and sealing them with CA helps prevent the layers from delaminating. Secondly, nicely prepared carbon looks really good.

Filing the battery slots (rather than sanding) gives a broader edge when the batteries rest against the chassis to prevent the carbon from cutting through the cells shrink wrap.

You could probably find a thread for preparing carbon fiber by searching but here's the quick lowdown:

I use 400 grit sandpaper to lightly sand all the edges until they aren't sharp. Then take some thin CA and put a couple drips into a q tip and use the q tip to run it along the edges of the carbon to seal it. I then repeat this process a couple times until the edges are just perfect.

How much rounding you do to the edges is up to you. Using a minimal amount of CA keeps things from getting messy and screwing up the good look.
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:19 AM   #32636
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I just bought a Calandra carpet knife 3.2 with a GTB 4cell ESC cheap on E-Bay.
I have run 1/10 TC for a number of years.

A couple questions.

Are the following assumptions correct?
1. 1/12s direct-drive, 2WD, pan car configuration is more durable and will require significanty less maintenance and general wrenching in comparison to 4wd TC? With the addition of brushless& lipo (with the exception possibly of the tires) the car should be almost maintenance free?

2. 1 cell lipo 17.5 is the primary class spec for 1/12?

3. What is the 1st choice/most popular hard shell Roar legal completion 1S battery for this class?

4. Has anyone run across a good Hong Kong source for generic 1S batteries, the ones I have seen on line are all sub 1000mah packs for other applications.

5. What exactly is the issue/solution to powering the servo when using a 1S 3.7 volt pack? Do all ESC require some sort of voltage booster?[I have the 4 cell GTB not spread spectrum ESC]
What is the recommended solution.

Thanks in Advance
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Old 11-07-2009, 12:02 PM   #32637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imjonah View Post
I just bought a Calandra carpet knife 3.2 with a GTB 4cell ESC cheap on E-Bay.
I have run 1/10 TC for a number of years.

A couple questions.

Are the following assumptions correct?
1. 1/12s direct-drive, 2WD, pan car configuration is more durable and will require significanty less maintenance and general wrenching in comparison to 4wd TC? With the addition of brushless& lipo (with the exception possibly of the tires) the car should be almost maintenance free?

2. 1 cell lipo 17.5 is the primary class spec for 1/12?

3. What is the 1st choice/most popular hard shell Roar legal completion 1S battery for this class?

4. Has anyone run across a good Hong Kong source for generic 1S batteries, the ones I have seen on line are all sub 1000mah packs for other applications.

5. What exactly is the issue/solution to powering the servo when using a 1S 3.7 volt pack? Do all ESC require some sort of voltage booster?[I have the 4 cell GTB not spread spectrum ESC]
What is the recommended solution.

Thanks in Advance
1. With the 3.2r, the only things you might want to watch are the center shock, make sure the damper tubes are properly lubed, and that you have your tweak set correctly.

2. Yes. Although you should check with your local track to see if 1s Lipo is allowed.

3. Both SMC and Reedy make great Lipo packs.

4. Sorry, I can't answer this. I personally would stick with known brands that are approved by ROAR.

5. For spec classes, yes, the booster is the most effective way to run your servo at the correct voltage.
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Old 11-07-2009, 01:07 PM   #32638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imjonah View Post
4. Has anyone run across a good Hong Kong source for generic 1S batteries, the ones I have seen on line are all sub 1000mah packs for other applications.
Take a look at Intellect (IP) batteries, they are the same batteries as Epic, but for half the price. Can be found on most chinese shops for around 35-40$. I can post you some shop adresses in PM, but you should be able to find them all around, also on ebay.
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Old 11-07-2009, 01:10 PM   #32639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gubbs3 View Post
You do it to EVERY edge of carbon fiber. Two reasons and the first is the most important. Sanding the edges of the chassis and sealing them with CA helps prevent the layers from delaminating. Secondly, nicely prepared carbon looks really good.

Filing the battery slots (rather than sanding) gives a broader edge when the batteries rest against the chassis to prevent the carbon from cutting through the cells shrink wrap.

You could probably find a thread for preparing carbon fiber by searching but here's the quick lowdown:

I use 400 grit sandpaper to lightly sand all the edges until they aren't sharp. Then take some thin CA and put a couple drips into a q tip and use the q tip to run it along the edges of the carbon to seal it. I then repeat this process a couple times until the edges are just perfect.

How much rounding you do to the edges is up to you. Using a minimal amount of CA keeps things from getting messy and screwing up the good look.
Thanks you for the info. Wish I had read this before I attempted to CA, It got a little messy. The Q tip idea would have helped with that. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 11-08-2009, 04:33 AM   #32640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uga View Post
Take a look at Intellect (IP) batteries, they are the same batteries as Epic, but for half the price. Can be found on most chinese shops for around 35-40$. I can post you some shop adresses in PM, but you should be able to find them all around, also on ebay.
Yes many brand name OEM Intellect IP
or Choice SMC 50C+
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