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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-29-2009, 01:51 AM   #32566
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The only 2 I know of are the SMC C-Max and the Reedy 1s LiPo batteries. I have 2 of the SMC batteries and they seem to work just as good as any other 1s LiPo out there.
Are there any rules about cutting off the Deans pigtails and soldering on barrels with LiPo's? I would leave enough wire sticking out of the case to Shoe-Goo it somewhere on the case so that the barrels wouldn't be flopping around. Ideas?
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Old 10-29-2009, 03:10 AM   #32567
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hi can anyone help me out here i need a lipo for my associtad 12l4 wat lipo will fit in without cutting anythink ?? cheers
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Old 10-29-2009, 03:41 AM   #32568
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hi can anyone help me out here i need a lipo for my associtad 12l4 wat lipo will fit in without cutting anythink ?? cheers
I have a 12L4,any current 1s will fit-- but you have to put it on one side of the t-bar(oval style),and all your elec.on the other.Ther is a saddle pack 1s in the works but not avail yet.
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:55 AM   #32569
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Tell you what Doc...you buy Justin Poulson and I a late lunch Thursday as we pass through Spokaloo (on our way to Woodland for the TimeZoneII Gran Prix with Scotty Ernst!!) and we'll give you one.

Give me a call @ 509-475-2203 and we`ll do lunch.
I don`t know about paying for Paulson though - I`ve seen him eat!


Tom - There`s nothing else I`d rather do, but I can`t get out of work. I`m going to try to make it over Sunday, but if I can`t, then say hello to the TZ crew & Scotty for me.
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Old 10-29-2009, 06:45 AM   #32570
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hello,

I drive in France (with EFRA rules), and I would like to know what is the
main configuration with lipo? do you use a 11.5T brushless or 13.5T or 9.5T?

Secondly, do you use a cut-off lipo 1S and a booster for the receiver or the tekin RS can do that?

thank you for yours answers.
nobody to explain me?
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Old 10-29-2009, 06:59 AM   #32571
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i the US most run ROAR rules. so 17.5, 13.5 and then open mod. I believe that the mod guys are running 2.5-5.5

most the mod guys run rx pack and it is split on 17.5 and 13.5. bout 50% booster and 50% rx packs at a big race. I think most for club racing are going the booster route.

the rs will handle 1s, but not sure bout your rx or servo
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:37 AM   #32572
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nobody to explain me?
The version 200 for the rs has a 1 cell cutoff you can set. You'll need a booster or receiver pack to make the RS and receiver happy. Also this supplies voltage to your servo so its not slow. Hope that helps you
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:20 AM   #32573
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hi i am recently getting back into 1/12 but i just purchased a tekin rs and 17.5 motor and i wanted to know what size wire i should run. i have 12, 14 and 16 gauge wire. thanks for the help
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:23 AM   #32574
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hi i am recently getting back into 1/12 but i just purchased a tekin rs and 17.5 motor and i wanted to know what size wire i should run. i have 12, 14 and 16 gauge wire. thanks for the help
16 is good. You can run 16 to the motor and 14 to the pack but not really needed.

DK
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:59 PM   #32575
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nobody to explain me?
There are no Rules in EFRA for stock classes - Grand Prix and European Championships run to Modified Rules.

In the UK, and, I believe, in Germany, Stock is run with 10.5 motors. There was a European Championship for Stock last year for 10.5 motors, and it is intended to repeat this, so maybe at the EFRA meeting this weekend there will be a new Rule for Stock at 10.5.

If I were you, I would choose 10.5 and for your friends to do the same. If it is going to be Stock in EFRA, it will be 10.5 and not any of the other winds you mention. HTH
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:08 PM   #32576
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Are there any rules about cutting off the Deans pigtails and soldering on barrels with LiPo's? I would leave enough wire sticking out of the case to Shoe-Goo it somewhere on the case so that the barrels wouldn't be flopping around. Ideas?
In the UK there are no Rules about replacing the Deans plug. Some drivers (including me!) have done so - I have replaced mine with 3.5mm plugs.

I made one wire much shorter than the other, and one lead from the speedo longer than the other. This way, it is very difficult to plug them together the wrong way round. The huge advantage of the Deans is you cannot correct it the wrong way round. As most speedos these days don't have polarity protection, the problem with changing to barrels is that you might, one day, release the smoke built into your speedo! I hope my set-up will keep my smoke capsules intact!! HTH
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:59 PM   #32577
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so basically the novak power booster is the way to go to get the most out of the speedo,and make sure servo's etc have ample power supply?
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Old 10-29-2009, 02:16 PM   #32578
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I'd go with the TQ Cells booster over the Novak one. Simpler wiring, smaller and lighter. I was also getting a weird shutdown where my car would lose signal using the Novak. I've switched to the TQ Cells booster and haven't had an issue since.
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Old 10-29-2009, 03:27 PM   #32579
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
In the UK there are no Rules about replacing the Deans plug. Some drivers (including me!) have done so - I have replaced mine with 3.5mm plugs.

I made one wire much shorter than the other, and one lead from the speedo longer than the other. This way, it is very difficult to plug them together the wrong way round. The huge advantage of the Deans is you cannot correct it the wrong way round. As most speedos these days don't have polarity protection, the problem with changing to barrels is that you might, one day, release the smoke built into your speedo! I hope my set-up will keep my smoke capsules intact!! HTH
Thanks for the input! I was thinking of a piece of black and red shrink wrap around the respective tubes, therefore, keeping the magic smoke safely contained inside the ESC Just gotta remember not to go colour blind......
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:40 PM   #32580
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post

Just my thoughts on your questions, I'd recomend lipo over nimh for avalibility and ease of use. As I posted earlier in this post a new 1s saddle pack is close and will fit a t-bar style if you go that route. I have the S120 myself and while its a nice well built car the slider mechanism on the t-bar can be a bit fiddily for a new 1/12 driver. The Xray is baised on the long proven L4 design and can be very fast and a little easier to setup. I myself like the the BMI DB12RR; it is in my opinion the easiest car for a begginner to drive and it can be ordered as a lipo specific kit. My personal recomendation would be to spend time at the track where you plan to race and see what cars are the most popular, it'll be much easier to get help if others are running the same car.

For electronics just make sure you go sensored, I really like my Tekin RS esc and a Futaba S9650 servo. There are more expensive options for both but I think these work well. The only motor I would stay away from is the Pulse line of motors, I've had bad luck with them. The new Novak balistic line is nice as you can change the stack instead of buying a new motor if you want to go up a class.

Good luck and have fun.
thank you really pointed me in the right direction.

now im giving more consideration to the AE, BMI,and CRC car. i have always liked AE... im leaning to that car just becouse... but im curious on how durible the car is ... i have a Ntc3 and thats not too wall friendly.
i also saw on the S120 thread serpent has a link car prototype. does anyone know when its going to be out. do you think it would be worth the wait i really would like to get started by this winter.
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