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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-23-2003, 06:12 AM   #3241
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Graphitedust: The battery slots are slightly closer together on an LW and the LW had a rear shock, rather than the piano wire/ballpoint pen spring rear set-up.

racenut: A REV 3 would suit your needs perfectly. They work very well on both surfaces. you just run softer shock and side springs, and stiffer front suspension springs, along with the appropriate tires for asphalt.
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Old 06-23-2003, 07:54 AM   #3242
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impactplayr

fibreglass t-bar and soft tyres are winging their way to me even as i type . i think i'll learn how to drive what i've got before i customise too much. i Used to race a dumas 3.5 tunnel hull years ago and unfortunately that's how i drive the car!!
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Old 06-25-2003, 11:52 AM   #3243
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Quote:
Originally posted by Graphitedust
Here goes...looks like it went. Can anyone identify this Associated car? Looking for model/year. stuff like that. Thanks Guys!
WOW! That thing is ancient!!!! LOL. Judging from the picture alone? It's hard to tell. I would venture and say that this is the 12LW. By the way, Associated made two versions of this car. 1. A low cost fiberglass chassis version. 2. A full blown race version with the graphite chassis. Which is pictured here.
Heck, I'll even bet ya this thing will still rock on carpet just as it did back then.
The electronics for that time were either Tekin or Novak. Cant remember the Novak stuff, but I had an old Tekin C-10 or something to that nature and a stock Airtronics reciever with the old CS2P radio system, and a Futaba S132H servo. Hows that for old stuff?
Lots of luck with it. Please keep me updated on how you're making out. I love the vintage RC stuff. Email me at Sshracedirector@aol.com. Laterzzzz!
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Old 06-25-2003, 09:03 PM   #3244
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I was wondering if i could glue my ball studs ot my servo saver? The problem is that the threads on the ball studs are to large for the holes on the servo saver. If im right i thought you needed to thread the ball studs to the servo saver. Also, i noticed that the turnbukles i have are to large. I dont have a manual for my car( trinity Spashett edition) and bought Assaciated l3 turnbukles. Does anyone have an idea of how to cut them. They are the steel kind, and was wondering if the threads needed to be exactly the same with on both sides?

Thank you very much
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Old 06-26-2003, 12:33 AM   #3245
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The Novak would be a 410....

Graphitedust, I know of a shop that may have the stuff you need... It's Hagerstown Moped, they are located in Hagerstown, MD..local for me... call them at 301-797-5996. Make sure you ask for Mike he is the owner ad knows more than the rest of his entire staff about pancars..... They may be able to ship to you.... You coulds also call Garland's RC car land and hobbies, also from Hagerstown, he has an entire used car...same as yours..... he may be willing to part with if he still has it, their number is 301-216-4700.....
Good luck!!

Switchblade.. no you don't have to cut equal amounts off of each side of each turnbuckle, but you should cut both turnbuckles equal length, infact I would suggest only cutting the length off of one end..... Cut the length off of the threads that will be facing the outside this way the adjustment nut will be as far outwards as possible and easy to get to.

1. Arrange the turnbuckles so that the both adjust by tuning the same way.

2. Run a 4-40 nut on the side you intend to cut.

3. Use a piece of tape to mark where you want to cut.

4. Make your cut with a dremel cut-off wheel (preferred), hacksaw, or sidecutter (last option)

5. Remove the tape.

6. Unscrew the nut off of the turnbuckle , so that it acts as a die and smooths the threads out...

Hope this helps
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Old 06-26-2003, 12:34 AM   #3246
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Switchblade- BTW. use nuts on the back of those nall-ends to secure them to the servo saver.....
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Old 06-26-2003, 11:44 PM   #3247
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RE: Old Assoc 12 scale.

Cypressmidwest/SpeedyTC3/impactplayer/Muffin: Thanks for the info guys! I'll try to post some pictures as the car progresses. I talked to Kinwald the other day and he told me he still sees guys racing this very car! Some things just never go out of style.... From all accounts, it looks like the concensus is that it's a 12LW.
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Old 06-29-2003, 04:42 AM   #3248
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Old 06-29-2003, 06:12 AM   #3249
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Default here goes. . .

since it's been quiet, here goes. . .

had my maiden race with my RC12L3, was also running stock TC.
my mistake it's hard to run 2 cars in a race with out a pit crew.

Only made one qualifying-- it sure is tiring to the eyes watching your car go fast for 8minutes hehehehehehe

made 4th in the grid out of 6. was happy considering it was my first run.

1st heat---- was doing well, but my diff came loose!! did not checked it!! Grrrrrrrrrrrr
2nd heat----poor start i was hit and broke the T-Bar!!!!! Grrrrrrr
did not run the third heat- no time to fix the car since I was laso runing TC!!!

Lesson is--- I should have been more prepared ( extra charger, parts and more...)

But it was fun-- i just notice that I do better in TC after runing 1/12 hehehehhehehe!!!!

Hope i did not bore you guys!!!

Will do the necessary modifications to my car, as soon as I complete the parts needed!!

Peace to all and Happy Racing!!!!
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Old 06-29-2003, 06:21 AM   #3250
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"If you can drive a 1/12, you can drive anything"

One of the Calandra's said that when I was there practicing. It helps.

Not much 1/12 racing here in the summer, I wish there was, but for now I am racing 1/10 pan car against the sedans.

I have a CRC, no T bar to break.

I love 1/12 On Road!

David Root
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Old 06-29-2003, 06:38 AM   #3251
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Quote:
Originally posted by David Root
"If you can drive a 1/12, you can drive anything"

One of the Calandra's said that when I was there practicing. It helps.

Not much 1/12 racing here in the summer, I wish there was, but for now I am racing 1/10 pan car against the sedans.

I have a CRC, no T bar to break.

I love 1/12 On Road!

David Root
yep the carpet knife is a really nice car!!! the distributors of the CRC were also there and very accomodating, asked tips and suggestion!! (HIGHWAYMAN and FATBOYJOE) It was just to bad that I already got the L3 before those CRC's arrived--- when the racing here for 1/12 gets serious and BIG then i will change to the Carpet Knife!!! Meanwhile, i will get some CRC parts to modify my L3 hehehehehe will post a Pic soon!!!!
Peace!!!-Lemuel Pia
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Old 06-29-2003, 08:29 AM   #3252
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I LOVE 12TH SCALE!!!!

all my stuff is now coming togtehr, ready for the winter. ive got my 2 cars, (2 swithblades!!! mmmmmm purple everyhwhere!!)

got my tires, motors soon, cars, shells soon, speedo, servo and all the gubbins. ahhhh, 12th scale is so cool

and yes, it does make driving nething else a piece of pis$

matt rice

p.s all of you 12ers keep the faith!!! 12 scale rules!!!
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Old 06-29-2003, 10:47 AM   #3253
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The CRC 6 pack has a T bar to break.


I broke my CK 3.1 chassis to motor pod linkage last week even there is no t bar
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Old 06-30-2003, 02:39 AM   #3254
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Default Re: here goes. . .

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
since it's been quiet, here goes. . .

had my maiden race with my RC12L3, was also running stock TC.
my mistake it's hard to run 2 cars in a race with out a pit crew.

Only made one qualifying-- it sure is tiring to the eyes watching your car go fast for 8minutes hehehehehehe

made 4th in the grid out of 6. was happy considering it was my first run.

1st heat---- was doing well, but my diff came loose!! did not checked it!! Grrrrrrrrrrrr
2nd heat----poor start i was hit and broke the T-Bar!!!!! Grrrrrrr
did not run the third heat- no time to fix the car since I was laso runing TC!!!

Lesson is--- I should have been more prepared ( extra charger, parts and more...)

But it was fun-- i just notice that I do better in TC after runing 1/12 hehehehhehehe!!!!

Hope i did not bore you guys!!!

Will do the necessary modifications to my car, as soon as I complete the parts needed!!

Peace to all and Happy Racing!!!!
i noticed that to, after running 1/12, your figger is a little lighter on the throttle for TC... actually dale pointed that out to me! well, i guess its true, there's already two of us who noticed.

however, its the other way around if you run TC first, your figger will get heavier when you run 1/12...
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Old 06-30-2003, 04:32 PM   #3255
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I'm sure that this has been asked and answered... what servo is being used the most... jr z3550, airtronics 94145z, etc...

thanks
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