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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-21-2009, 09:28 PM   #32521
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Ok cool...well then I was ok since I believe the Novak booster has a cut off built in as well.
i haven't felt a real concern for a voltage cutoff. for me, with a spec motor, the tires go off and my brain dumps well before the battery.
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Old 10-21-2009, 10:50 PM   #32522
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Hey Franko...

Guessing your booster looks pretty much exactly like this one (maybe different shrink color)



Are you plugging it in by using the esc-receiver harness plugged into the booster and then the booster plugged into the receiver (direct wire between esc and receiver)? I am not sure about most current Tekin downloads (I don't use Tekin) but this method DID not work for Tekins, LRP's, Nosrams, etc in the past. The only esc that completely supported "plug-n-play" use like that that I was aware of was the Novak GTB.

We wired up my buddy JP's (you'll get to meet him at Time Zone next month) RS using one of these same boosters with an inexpensive servo harness extension (available at any RC plane store, the 3" one should be plenty long and runs about $3). Cut the female end off the extension and you can actually remove the signal wire from the extension as well. Solder the + and - wires from the extension to the esc at the points where battery power (also, oddly enough, + and -) is soldered to the esc lugs. Plug the male end of the servo extension cable onto the pins from the booster and then plug the booster into the "batt" or "aux" (or "bind") port on your receiver AND plug your esc lead into the normal Ch. 2 port in the receiver. IF you only have 3 ports in your receiver you'll need to splice the booster in with your PT or some such.

NOW...JP hasn't downloaded the latest from Tekin (and, honestly, we're not using anything CLOSE to pack capacity in 13.5 class so we don't need cutoff) so he needs to leave the esc switch in the "off" position. The booster used doesn't have a switch so the receiver is energized if the battery is plugged in--make sure your transmitter is "on" when you plug the battery in. It MAY be that with the current Tekin download (and this sounds to be the case) that you can select a lower cutoff voltage AND if you wish to have the cutoff in action you may have the esc switch "on" to take advantage of this. As I said, though, we find we're only using somewhere in the low to mid 2000mah in 8 minutes, nothing close to any danger for the LiPo as far as voltage so guess how much we're worrying that we don't have a cutoff activated? Nope, not at all.

lmk if this helps,

Scottrik
Hi Scott
yes the is the one i have.. no the booster is between the batteries and reciever.and I also turn on the esc ..scott the booster s/b wire between the esc and reciever?
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Old 10-21-2009, 11:35 PM   #32523
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I want to move to the UK!!

You Brit's have such a great interest and support for 1/12th. Was there anyone running a single cell lipo and if so, how did they stand up to the round cells?
About 10 people ran LiPo. We did quite well. We use 10.5 motors for Stock (on Day 1), and I think we had one driver in the C Main. On Day 2 we offer a 10.5 class, or Mod. We had a driver in the 10.5 A Main using LiPo.

In all honesty, you cannot make up for the loss of about 1 volt over round cells. However, you can get close! It is great fun pulling away from the round-cell cars in the infield, and trying to make enough gap that they can't catch up on the straight. One mistake, and you've lost the place!!

We're still trying to figure out the best set-ups for LiPo, but in the meantime there seems to be more people getting into LiPo this season. A lot of people predict that it will be all LiPo next season.

Our season runs from September to April (during our winter) and there are five more National races to go.
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:26 AM   #32524
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Hi Scott
yes the is the one i have.. no the booster is between the batteries and reciever.and I also turn on the esc ..scott the booster s/b wire between the esc and reciever?
I'm guessing "s/b" is "should be"?

The booster is designed to be plugged between the esc and receiver but afaik it doesn't care how it's wired in, it's the esc's that seem to care. The Novak esc's allow it to be plugged in-line between the esc and receiver (plug-n-play), uses the esc's power switch to turn the system on and off and works perfectly. One of the reasons it works like this is that the GTB 4-cell will operate at a ridiculously low input voltage. In fact the GTB 4-cell doesn't even need a booster at all, except that your servo will be VERY slow.

For the Tekin and others the booster gets wired as you describe between the batteries and the esc. I've seen people "tap" into battery voltage out at the end of the esc's battery lead where it plugs into the battery, the "neater" way (I think) is how we did JP's which was to tap into the other end of the battery leads where they deposit battery power into the esc at the lugs.
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Old 10-24-2009, 01:59 PM   #32525
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HEY--

Is anybody running the new Novak Ballistic spec motors in their 1/12 rides? I've always run the Novak SS's and have gotten pretty good at modifying and lowering the solder tabs on the motors so they don't interfere with the bodies.

The tabs on the Ballistic motors look a LOT less maleable than the ones on the SS's...anybody done this yet?

Thanks,

Scottrik
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Old 10-24-2009, 02:10 PM   #32526
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Scott, we have been running the 7.5 in the oval cars, so not sure how they fit in the 1/12 scale. If you don't get an reply's let me know and I'll have the chance to check it out on Friday for our first oval race on the new carpet.
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Old 10-24-2009, 03:18 PM   #32527
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I've run the Ballistic in my CRC GenX. I don't clip or bend the tabs at all. I've set the motor in the car with the tabs forward. That way wires are low and in front of the motor giving good enough flex in the rear suspension without binding it.
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Old 10-24-2009, 04:44 PM   #32528
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
HEY--

Is anybody running the new Novak Ballistic spec motors in their 1/12 rides? I've always run the Novak SS's and have gotten pretty good at modifying and lowering the solder tabs on the motors so they don't interfere with the bodies.

The tabs on the Ballistic motors look a LOT less maleable than the ones on the SS's...anybody done this yet?

Thanks,

Scottrik
Hi Scott, I have been using a Novak Ballistic, maybe for a few extra points I would let you look at it tomorrow, seems to fit well under Parma 8 body. looking forward to racin with you all. Chuck
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Old 10-24-2009, 09:29 PM   #32529
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Default Run Time

How much run time doyou get from the 5000 1S lipo on 13,5 brushless motor?
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Old 10-25-2009, 08:02 AM   #32530
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How much run time doyou get from the 5000 1S lipo on 13,5 brushless motor?
Franko, for a 8 minute race with a few warm up laps I typically put back in about 2600 to 2800 mah which should equal almost 15 minutes of run time.
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Old 10-25-2009, 09:39 AM   #32531
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Franko, for a 8 minute race with a few warm up laps I typically put back in about 2600 to 2800 mah which should equal almost 15 minutes of run time.
I think my lipo is dead....I'm only getting 240 sec at 20 amp discharge..
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:58 AM   #32532
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I think my lipo is dead....I'm only getting 240 sec at 20 amp discharge..
I have never tried discharging but if you are dumping during a race with a 13.5 you are definitely having issues. The only time I have dumped was running mod.
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Old 10-26-2009, 06:52 PM   #32533
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What is the tire brand of choice for 12th scale? I'm thinking about running this winter after a 7 year break. Back then it was mostly Jaco purple and grey's, whats changed if anytihng? I will most likely be running the new crc car in stock lipo.

Thanks.
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:33 PM   #32534
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What is the tire brand of choice for 12th scale? I'm thinking about running this winter after a 7 year break. Back then it was mostly Jaco purple and grey's, whats changed if anytihng? I will most likely be running the new crc car in stock lipo.

Thanks.
mostly jaco and parma. they now have the same foams and also the same wheels, just choice of black or white wheels.
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Old 10-27-2009, 01:10 PM   #32535
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Receiver pack wiring Q. When you connect the rx pack to the rx do you remove the positive rx wire coming from the esc or does the rx work fine with the lower lipo voltage coming from the esc and the higher voltage coming from the rx pack plugged in to the bat connector?
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