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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-14-2009, 05:03 AM   #32461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myrxseven View Post
Softer front spring?
It will do it with .018 and .020.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
I think what Tom was saying is that sometimes it may SEEM like it's working "perfectly" when, in fact, it isn't. Maybe start looking into some setup options that don't work the front tires quite so hard, then use less steering. It sounds like what may be happening is that your rear is too locked down so the front tires are having to work too hard to keep up.

We don't run "single compound" here, just nothing wintergreen. I'd guess 3/4 of us run Niftech and the rest run Jack, I don't have any problem at all with traction to the end of a heat or race and the guy who usually beats me runs Jack and his traction seems just fine too. Our carpet is rolled out for every race and is considered low grip, at best it climbs to medium.

Something I noticed the last couple years with the "hot shoes" that come to our big race in the spring is that they all start running into traction problems. The key, to my mind, is that they're setting the car SO "on edge" / at the limit / whatever to get the absolute minimum lap time that they're running the tires off 6 minutes in. Then instead of compromising on their setup they moan and groan about the track. The key is, in "real" racing that ain't how it's done but in "toy car" racing we think it is. "Real" cars can (and do) set the car on edge for the fast qualifying laps, or whatever, but to go full race distance they throw a completely different setup on the car so that it can make the tires work for longer distance. Since our "qualifying laps" are, basically, race distance we need to work on a setup that maybe doesn't maximize lap speed but insures that the tires will last the full 8 minutes. Something that doesn't get much sympathy is if, say, Jimmie Johnson shows up at Daytona and starts moaning that he can't run his qualifying setup the full race distance. Could something like this be happening to you?
Well, I like steering but it has to be smooth. I set my car up to run the fastest lap I can consistantly. When the car is right I can rip fast laps over and over but if its twitchy my laps r all over the place. Normally I try to set up the car for the last half of the race. Well, I havnt been able to get it to work the last half latley. Ive had the car grind the front tires down and also had setups that did the rear more then the front. All seem to show the same result in the end. What would you suggest?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
How big are your tyres? It could be that if your tyres are worn down, they take less additive, plus they rotate more times, wearing the additive out quicker too. Have you tried bigger tyres against smaller tyres to see if that is the case? I tried Paragon FX and found that the rears went off around the 6 minute mark, Paragon Ground Effects keeps the rears hooked up for the complete 8 minutes (and more!).
I have run from 1.65 to 1.58 front and 1.75 to 1.65 rear with same result. anything taller n it starts traction rolling n chunkin tires.

DK
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Old 10-14-2009, 08:52 AM   #32462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PartTime View Post

Well, I like steering but it has to be smooth. I set my car up to run the fastest lap I can consistantly. When the car is right I can rip fast laps over and over but if its twitchy my laps r all over the place. Normally I try to set up the car for the last half of the race. Well, I havnt been able to get it to work the last half latley. Ive had the car grind the front tires down and also had setups that did the rear more then the front. All seem to show the same result in the end. What would you suggest?

DK
PartTime - Some ideas to help you sort out your handling. Mindful that I am just a solid club-level driver when I'm on my game. To improve my driving, I am working on "setup" first. Having a consistent car is the only way to gauge your driving performance.

Listen to the "old" guys in your group that are fast. Here, I've had the same problem as you in the past. A couple of very fast regional drivers offered that if my car falls apart before 8 minutes, I'm asking the tires to do all of the work and I need to make the suspension do more. Here are two suggestions that helped me get things under control. Both involve going out for "practice" runs without using any tire sauce. If you want your car to be balanced and driveable at the end of the run, this is where you'll be anyway.

1) Back off the Diff until it squeaks, then tighten just enough to stop the slippage. REASON: If your Diff is just a little on the tight side, you can create a Diff Push that leads to overheating the front tires. A Diff-Push can overpower the chassis setup and lead to the snap-loose condition at the end of the run.

2) Once you know your Diff is just right, then get into some laps with your dry tires. If your setup has a push problem, you will be plowing the front around the corners. Go to a lighter front spring and try again. Get the front tracking well, then adjust the rear to match (side-spring rates, tube-lube, etc.) You might play with the "Rake" and "Ride Heights" as well. Your looking for the point where your car produces "drift" on dry tires and definetly no longer has either "big push" or "big snap loose".

From there, you can balance out the application of tire sauce front to rear and make choices of tire combos knowing that the car setup itself is "neutral".

Hope you get things sorted out.

Aaron
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:10 AM   #32463
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Aaron.
Good stuff there. Thanks for the tips.

I normally dope up the tires and then wipe them off a min later in practise so I can get the tires to go off faster. Makes it drivable for the first couple of laps but it only last for a couple more. This way I got threw less tires and its makes setup a lot faster. Then I let them soak for atleast 20 mins for the race.

DK
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:10 AM   #32464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VRacing View Post
PartTime - Some ideas to help you sort out your handling. Mindful that I am just a solid club-level driver when I'm on my game. To improve my driving, I am working on "setup" first. Having a consistent car is the only way to gauge your driving performance.

Listen to the "old" guys in your group that are fast. Here, I've had the same problem as you in the past. A couple of very fast regional drivers offered that if my car falls apart before 8 minutes, I'm asking the tires to do all of the work and I need to make the suspension do more. Here are two suggestions that helped me get things under control. Both involve going out for "practice" runs without using any tire sauce. If you want your car to be balanced and driveable at the end of the run, this is where you'll be anyway.

1) Back off the Diff until it squeaks, then tighten just enough to stop the slippage. REASON: If your Diff is just a little on the tight side, you can create a Diff Push that leads to overheating the front tires. A Diff-Push can overpower the chassis setup and lead to the snap-loose condition at the end of the run.

2) Once you know your Diff is just right, then get into some laps with your dry tires. If your setup has a push problem, you will be plowing the front around the corners. Go to a lighter front spring and try again. Get the front tracking well, then adjust the rear to match (side-spring rates, tube-lube, etc.) You might play with the "Rake" and "Ride Heights" as well. Your looking for the point where your car produces "drift" on dry tires and definetly no longer has either "big push" or "big snap loose".

From there, you can balance out the application of tire sauce front to rear and make choices of tire combos knowing that the car setup itself is "neutral".

Hope you get things sorted out.

Aaron
Thanks! ctrl+c, ctrl+v
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Old 10-14-2009, 12:36 PM   #32465
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Default SQUEAKS

hey vracing ,what do you mean by diffs squeaks
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Old 10-14-2009, 01:09 PM   #32466
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Sorry about that - Diff = Rear Differential

Some people recommend that you shouldn't use the adjustment of the rear differential as a tuning aid. If you have it set to tight, it will, however, produce problems that can't be overcome with setup adjustments.

Aaron
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Old 10-14-2009, 08:59 PM   #32467
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Some color for the thread...



...Jim
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:13 PM   #32468
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Nice gulf work Jim
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:24 PM   #32469
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It's nice to see bodies that look like race cars and not something that would be parked in front of Huggy Bear's house.
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Old 10-14-2009, 10:56 PM   #32470
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Anyone else seeing a drunk swiffer mop? lol

Awesome paint Jim!
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Old 10-15-2009, 12:18 AM   #32471
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See those are too pretty to mount on a car that is going to be bouncing off walls! Awesome as usual Jim!
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Old 10-15-2009, 02:35 AM   #32472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
See those are too pretty to mount on a car that is going to be bouncing off walls! Awesome as usual Jim!
Then they're not for me

Nice paint Jim!
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Old 10-15-2009, 10:02 PM   #32473
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Anyone looking to try a CRC front end, or just replace one:
Brand New! CRC 1/12 Front End
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Old 10-16-2009, 06:56 AM   #32474
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Anybody here try using rear droop as a tuning device? Most stock cars are set up with about 1mm.
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Old 10-16-2009, 08:38 AM   #32475
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Default Novak 4-cell plate?

I heard Novak has available top-plates for Novak GTB ESCs to let them run with stock/13.5 setups without the heat sink. I have two regular GTBs that I want to run in 12th scale but wondered if anyone here has bought them from Novak and replaced the sink?

I couldn't find these on the Novak web site catalog. I just want to remove the heat sink and run it without and figured it's best to replace with something made for the top of the ESC.

thx
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